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#1 |
Staff
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 21,743
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treating unstained ramrods
Can anyone confirm that before putting an unstained ramrod to use, to soak it in a 50/50 mixture of linseed oil and turpentine? This is supposed to make it more flexible.
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#2 | ||
Senior Member
Join Date: February 16, 2006
Location: IOWA
Posts: 8,771
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Should work !!!
Quote:
Although I see no to doubt that this wouldn't work, I have not heard of this method. I have read about the following methods. ..... ; 1) Soak the rod for three days, in "Kerosene"' then I have to ask about availabilty, back then; ... ![]() 2) Soak the rod in "Coal-Oil". That sounds better to me. ..... ![]() I think you have to follow the spirit and I'll bet there is more than one way, to skin this cat!!! Quote:
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 7, 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 251
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In my limited experience of about 55 years of shooting building and repairing ram rods and wiping rods ( used in cartridge guns) I haven’t found anyone to have a tested way to make wood significantly more flexible. I used a tube filled with kerosene to soak rods in and had one snap with out undue mishandling. Seems to me selection of grain run out and how you use it has the greatest effect.
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#4 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 16, 2006
Location: IOWA
Posts: 8,771
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Soaking wooden rods does work but to a point
Quote:
![]() Sadly, too many Traditional owners, overwork their rods that even the straightest grains will break and can hurt you. They are good for loading and "swabbing" but not for clearing dry-balls. The 3-day soaks do work provide more flex, to a point. Be Safe !!!
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,072
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Dixie Gun Works catalogs used to have a picture of Turner Kirkland holding a hickory rod bent almost double after soaking in kerosene. I think it was three months instead of three days but I could be wrong. That was a long time ago. I doubt it would take a stain afterwards and would probably smell like kerosene for a long time.
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 19, 2009
Posts: 3,277
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I used a piece of 2" PVC pipe capped off to soak hickory ramrods in - after fitting them to the rifle (I used hickory dowels at times and sometimes made my own from hickory using a spokeshave and scrapers I made for the task). The blanks were ripped from straight grain hickory that was air dried for at least 10 years that I had cut off the farm. I believe that I also learned about the soaking in coal oil from a very early DGW catalog.
The smallest one I ever made was 5/16" for a Virginia style .36 cal flint long rifl - 40" barrel. I can honestly saw I never gave my ramrods a "bend test", but never had one snap on me. After soaking in the coal oil, I would I would wipe them off and let them air dry for a few days - then use boiled linseed oil thinned with turpentine (real turpentine) and rub repeated coats into them. And who doesn't enjoy the fragrance of turpentine? Done in this manner, they "seemed" to resemble the appearance of many of the hickory ramrods seen on original rifles and shotguns. Gary - I'm guessing your talking about a ramrod for your squirrel rifle build? For a .30 cal - about a 1/4" rod or so? I remember talking with a fellow down at Friendship years ago who showed me a Vincent Rifle he had built - a beautiful small caliber rifle with a 1/4" rifle. He told me that shooting it had been a learning experience as with such a small diameter rod, he had had to learn when ramming the patched ball down the barrel, he learned after snapping several rods not to choke up on the rod so far and to use a series of pushes to get the ball down the barrel to seat it. Made sense!
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#7 |
Staff
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 21,743
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Thanks bedbugbilly. I'll pass the word onto the owner. I've only wood stained the rod and as it would take several months, will pass the word onto the owner to soak it himself (and to use a synthetic rod in the field).
Got the hickory ramrod from The Log Cabin Shoppe (had to order a frizzen spring anyway) and it needed some sanding to fit.
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 16, 2006
Location: IOWA
Posts: 8,771
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Yes Sir !!!
Quote:
![]() Be Safe !!!
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'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing. ![]() Last edited by Pahoo; May 31, 2023 at 01:59 PM. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 22, 2010
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,261
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I like hickory!
My formula is the old 56% mineral spirits, 33% indoor poly varnish, 11% linseed oil This stuff really soaks in deep and I don't apologize for the plastic varnish, it works well. You can use old style varnish too. It might even be a bit too thin, but you can always thicken it up with a little more linseed oil at the expense of drying time.
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