Cleaning blue revolvers

[akinswi]

I picked up a Colt Trooper MK III yesterday. And the Bluing on it is fantastic.

I shoot alot of Lead reloads and I noticed on smith 586 it leaves alot of lead and fouling on the cylinder and the barrel. Im assuming this will happen on the Colt Trooper.

I been using Boretech eliminator to remove the fouling , Because Smith recommends no ammonia based on there newer blued finish (586 was made in last 3 years)

Now to the Colt Can I just use hoppes 9 to clean it then use ballistol or slip 2000 to lightly coat it. I plan on shooting this gun alot and want to protect the finish as long as possible.

I do have Isso Gunbrite that works marvels getting off scrotch marks they say its safe to use on blue finishes but blue finishes are not created equally. Im assuming the colt made in 1973 has a superior bluing finish.

Or can I just clean the whole thing with ballistol and nylon brush and call it a day

[Dfariswheel]

Colt's bluing was always top of the line.

To clean you can use most any standard bore solvent, Hoppe's #9 being very good.
Just apply and let soak a while then gently rub with a wet patch to remove exterior carbon fouling.
If you get leading and carbon fouling on the outside of the cylinder in the flutes, Hoppe's works or you can apply Kroil and let soak overnight, then it will usually wipe off.

Apply solvent to the cylinder face, let soak, then scrub with a nylon brush.
DO NOT try to remove the carbon stains, that will thin and remove the bluing.

For protection I use CLP Breakfree because the solvent component will lift old oxidized bluing and keep the finish shiny and new looking.

[rodfac]

Hoppe's #9 on the bore, cylinder, and exterior, or Ed's Red will remove powder fouling and loosen lead/copper fouling. Good advice above about wiping down the cylinder face, and forgetting about removal of the black marks, if you're going to be shooting the old Colt. Excessive scrubbing with a scotch guard etc. can and will harm the cylinder throat faces, over time, as well as the bluing.

For lead fouling, the venerable "Lewis Lead Remover" has done the job. It cleans both the bore and the tapered lead into the rifling.

But another good/better method is to get a cpl of Chore Boy kitchen scrubs...on line you can find the ALL COPPER variety. They work as well as the Lewis Lead Remover, and are infinitely cheaper, a sleeve will last you a life time as you'll only use a cpl of strands wrapped around a well used bore brush. A dozen passes will clean the most fowled bore and throat.

DO NOT GET THE USUALLY ENCOUNTERED ONES FROM YOUR GROCERY MART; THEY'RE COPPER PLATED STEEL AND WILL SCRATCH AND EVENTUALLY RUIN THE BORE. The ALL COPPER variety can be found with a Google/Amazon search, online.

While I've used abrasive bore cleaners: Remington 40x, JB Bore paste, and Hoppe's "Elite" Copper Remover, they take 10 times as long to work, and results display no discernable difference in actual "on target" accuracy results.

In my use, over the past 20+ years, the ALL COPPER Chore Boy is just the ticket. I start with Ed's Red: (equal parts of ATF transmission fluid, Kerosene, Acetone, & Alifatic Mineral Spirits or Turpentine). Do a search on it...it's as effective as any of the boutique products and infinitely cheaper. I also use a 50/50 mix of ATF/Kerosene as an overall gun lube where oil is called for. Ed's Red and the lube mixture was devised by Ed Harris of American Rifleman and Ruger engineering fame. His lengthy resume in firearms research is first rate.

Best of luck with your Colt, Rod

[Bill DeShivs]

"Fouling."
Word Police-to correct and serve.

[CajunBass]

The others have covered the bore, I don't do anything different there. For the exterior I like to use Renaissance Wax. You can get it from Amazon or probably some other places, but that's that's the only place I've ever looked for it. A jar will last darn near forever, unless you find other uses for it than on your guns...and you will. I use it on guns, grips, stocks, holsters, fishing tackle, jewelry, you get the idea.

Get a little on your finger, apply it to the gun, let dry for a few minutes, then buff it off by hand with a clean soft cloth...old worn out T-shirt works great. My guns don't rust, they don't even show fingerprints. As a plus, it's relaxing to do.

[ballardw]

Originally Posted by CajunBass

A jar will last darn near forever, unless you find other uses for it than on your guns...and you will. I use it on guns, grips, stocks, holsters, fishing tackle, jewelry, you get the idea.

Swords, knives, axes, mace, spears ...

Renaissance Wax also seems not to show as many finger prints from casual handling as some products.

[hammie]

I will "3rd" the comments about Renaissance Wax. Besides Amazon, you can also get it from Midwayusa, and Brownells. Be prepared. It's not cheap. I also use it on the cast iron table of my table saw. Helps prevent rust and decreases the sliding friction on the table.

[akinswi]

I have heard great things about reniassance wax. I will give it a whirl

Thanks

[gwpercle]

Paste Wax is a most excellent protector of blued finishes . The better the wax the better the protection . A product called Renaissance Wax is probably the best . Used by museums to protect firearms and would be the best thing to use .
In the past I have used Mother's Pure Carnuaba Wax and even Johnson's Paste Floor Wax to protect shotguns while duck hunting . Ren Wax is available on-line $20 to $40 for about 2.5 ounces (65 ml ) it's expensive but you wanted the best ... So , Whoop there you go !
Gary

[RoyceP]

Another vote for Mother's pure Carnauba wax. Great stuff. very pure. Does not have any polish - just wax.

[Bill DeShivs]

Johnson's Paste Wax is no longer available.
Most car waxes are a good substitute- just make sure they don't contain abrasives.
Renaissance Wax does not wear well. Neutral paste shoe polish works just as well (or better!) and is cheap.

[rodfac]

Thanks, Bill...fowling corrected!!! Rod

[guncrank]

No abrasives needed

I use CLP and a nylon brush that is new and a microfiber rag