The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Skunkworks > The Smithy

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old February 24, 2023, 01:16 PM   #1
HandyMan12
Junior Member
 
Join Date: February 22, 2023
Posts: 4
Through pin on SA revolver

I have a Buffalo Scout .22 revolver and am needing to replace the firing pin. I've never removed a through pin from a frame and understand it can be challenging. Any tips and tricks you want to share before I just grab my punch and hammer and start banging around?
Thanks.
HandyMan12 is offline  
Old February 24, 2023, 04:26 PM   #2
Smoke & Recoil
Senior Member
 
Join Date: August 23, 2008
Location: East shore of Lake Michigan.
Posts: 695
Pictures might help us out, in order to help you.
__________________
Sent from my Tandy 1000
Smoke & Recoil is offline  
Old February 26, 2023, 10:47 PM   #3
HandyMan12
Junior Member
 
Join Date: February 22, 2023
Posts: 4
Photos

These pics show the through pin that I understand I need to remove in order to put in a new recoil cup/shield and firing pin. The 3rd pic shows there is no firing pin as you can see the piece of paper through the barrel.

Again, I have heard small through pins in the frame of an old SA can be hard to deal with. I just don't want to mar this old pistol banging around on it.

Thanks.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_2231 (1).jpg (799.9 KB, 60 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2232 (1).jpg (596.5 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2233 (1).jpg (458.9 KB, 53 views)
HandyMan12 is offline  
Old February 27, 2023, 09:47 AM   #4
Sarge
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 12, 2002
Location: MO
Posts: 5,432
From your photos (good job BTW) and the absence of the firing pin, firing pin spring and recoil shield, I'd say somebody has had that pin out already; so it shouldn't be too difficult to remove. I'd suggest driving it out toward the end that extends farthest, but I'd mic each end to see if the pin has an obvious taper. I sort of doubt that one does.

I'd also put a drop of penetrating oil on the cross pin where it passes through the firing pin port, and give a day or so to work.
__________________
People were smarter before the Internet, or imbeciles were harder to notice.
Sarge is offline  
Old February 27, 2023, 10:21 AM   #5
Smoke & Recoil
Senior Member
 
Join Date: August 23, 2008
Location: East shore of Lake Michigan.
Posts: 695
From the looks of that pistol, it appears to be the same as a Heritage Rough Rider...you
might be able to look at a schematic/parts list of that for help.
__________________
Sent from my Tandy 1000
Smoke & Recoil is offline  
Old February 27, 2023, 04:02 PM   #6
Hawg
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,082
That's not the original pin. You can very carefully punch it out but the frame is Zamak and the hole may be oversized once the pin is driven out. I had one just like it many years ago and they are not good quality at all.
Hawg is offline  
Old February 27, 2023, 04:53 PM   #7
HandyMan12
Junior Member
 
Join Date: February 22, 2023
Posts: 4
Thanks very much. I've been using this as a schematic to go by. Don't know if anyone agrees, but it seems like it most closely resembles what I have. Getting that oil on the pin the day before is a great idea.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-man...olvers-fie/e15

Once I replace the firing pin and recoil cup assembly, I will replace the hammer and trigger as they are so worn, that the hammer only locks back 1 in 5 times.
HandyMan12 is offline  
Old February 27, 2023, 05:21 PM   #8
Hawg
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,082
It looks like they use the same schematic for several guns. The Buffalo Scout was made by Herbert Schmidt. It's really not worth spending the time or money on. The fact you have so many worn parts attests to the quality. An RG 66 is a much better quality gun and most people call them junk.
Hawg is offline  
Old February 27, 2023, 07:02 PM   #9
Nathan
Senior Member
 
Join Date: July 1, 2001
Posts: 6,102
Do you have cupped punches? The pins look rounded on the end.

cup-tip-punches
Nathan is offline  
Old February 28, 2023, 09:15 AM   #10
HandyMan12
Junior Member
 
Join Date: February 22, 2023
Posts: 4
@Nathan, I have flat punches. Are the cupped the only way to go to keep solid contact with the pin?
@Hawg, I hear you, but it is an old cheap gun from my Father-in-Law that he used to shoot back in the early 70's and it would make his world if I got it up and running again.
HandyMan12 is offline  
Old February 28, 2023, 11:52 AM   #11
Aguila Blanca
Staff
 
Join Date: September 25, 2008
Location: CONUS
Posts: 18,130
Can you disassemble it and post close-ups of the hammer and sear? If the action is like a Colt SAA (and why would't it be?), you can probably repair the cocking reliability by dressing the notch on the hammer with a jewelers file.
__________________
NRA Life Member / Certified Instructor
NRA Chief RSO / CMP RSO
1911 Certified Armorer
Jeepaholic
Aguila Blanca is offline  
Old February 28, 2023, 03:55 PM   #12
Hawg
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 16,082
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aguila Blanca View Post
Can you disassemble it and post close-ups of the hammer and sear? If the action is like a Colt SAA (and why would't it be?), you can probably repair the cocking reliability by dressing the notch on the hammer with a jewelers file.
That's a possibility but I'm betting the tip of the sear is broken off or worn down.
Hawg is offline  
Old March 1, 2023, 11:59 AM   #13
Unclenick
Staff
 
Join Date: March 4, 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 20,800
Handman12,

A lot of straight pins are not hardened. The cup punches are both to preserve the appearance of soft hemispherical end pins and to be sure a flat punch doesn't upset the end of the pin to a tighter fit in the hole. A brass punch may be soft enough to indent in the punch tip rather than upset the steel pin. It just depends on how soft the pin is.

A penetrating fluid is a good idea. Interestingly, some of the natural organic oils seem to do better at penetrating than commercial petroleum-based products. Both wintergreen oil and tea nut tree oil do an amazing job of creeping, and I have added them to penetrating oils in the past to improve their performance. So they are something else you could apply a day or two ahead of attempting to drift the pin out.

Usually, gun pins are drifted out from left to right and put in from right to left (as viewed from the shooter's end of the gun). For straight pins, this shouldn't matter. I brought it up mainly because it is backward from your schematic illustration.

If you wind up loosening the zinc alloy hole, a roll pin should take up the slop, even if it isn't an aesthetic match to the original.

There's an article on pins and punches here.
__________________
Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member
CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor
NRA Certified Rifle Instructor
NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle
Unclenick is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:03 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2023, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2021 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent: thefiringline.com
Page generated in 0.04336 seconds with 11 queries