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Old November 29, 2017, 09:42 AM   #26
Art Eatman
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In quite a few decades of messing with centerfire rifles, all I do as the last step in a cleaning operation is to spray some gun oil on a patch and run it through the barrel. All I want is a thin anti-rust film. So far so good.

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Old November 29, 2017, 10:09 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Dufus View Post
Sounds like horse hockey to me.

Lithium grease is not hygroscopic.
Sure is. Do your research Dufus.
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Old November 29, 2017, 11:11 AM   #28
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Barrel break-in - I use a light-weight synthetic motor oil and Hobbs 9 mix to clean and finish it with hobbs and a dry patch. I won't use grease while shooting. I guess you could but only if you clean it out with a dry patch.
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Old November 29, 2017, 06:11 PM   #29
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Sure is. Do your research Dufus.
MarkCO, you're the one making the assertion. It's up to you to prove it.
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Old November 29, 2017, 06:29 PM   #30
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Quote:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dufus View Post
Sounds like horse hockey to me.

Lithium grease is not hygroscopic.

Sure is. Do your research Dufus.
I have done my research on it.....many years ago, Sonny Boy. You are taking one compound's characteristics and applying them to a completely different compound.

If everyone took your word on it, we would all be in deep dodo.

It is time for you to hit the books as natman has suggested.

natman: thank you.
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Old November 29, 2017, 07:52 PM   #31
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I’ll leave a light wipe of Shooter’s Choice in a barrel after cleaning, and that’s all it gets till I clean again, which might be months or longer.

When my Dad passed, I brought his old tang safety Ruger home to give it a good cleaning. I guess he had it for maybe 20 years, and if it got cleaned, I did it. I remember cleaning the rifle and bore maybe 3or 4 times over the 20 years. He was a hard core hunter -rain, sleet, snow, fog, whatever. I expected the worst when I cleaned the bore, but it wasn’t bad at all. I worked up some moderate 270 reloads, and it shot great groups.

So maybe it doesn’t matter too much whether or not you oil the bore lightly or not. But I wouldn’t grease it unless I planned to degrease before shooting or unless I was going to store it for a decade.
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Old November 29, 2017, 10:34 PM   #32
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I have done my research on it.....many years ago, Sonny Boy. You are taking one compound's characteristics and applying them to a completely different compound.

If everyone took your word on it, we would all be in deep dodo.

It is time for you to hit the books as natman has suggested.

natman: thank you.
That is humorous for sure. Pretty common knowledge amongst tribologists.

http://sciencemadness.wikia.com/wiki/Lithium_hydroxide
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Old November 29, 2017, 10:48 PM   #33
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Just what I said before. You are comparing the properties of one compound and saying a completely different compound has the same properties.

One more time: lithium grease is not hydroscopic.

Lithium hydroxide is not Lithium grease.
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Old November 29, 2017, 11:05 PM   #34
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Just because you selectively trimmed my post in your quote.

Lithium Hydroxide is in many Lithium Grease formulations.
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Old November 29, 2017, 11:13 PM   #35
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Lithium hydroxide!!!! Lithium hydroxide is EXTREMELY corrosive!! It is used to etch glass and remove dried concrete from cement mixer trucks. Not in my machinery, thank you!

Lithium soap (aka lithium grease) contains lithium stearate and lithium hydroxystearate, according to the label and MSDS. Lithium hydroxide may be used to make lithium soap, but it is not, in fact, lithium soap. Lithium soap/grease, like all soaps, is slightly hygroscopic. This is desirable as the grease will scavenge any moisture from the areas it is used to lubricate in order to prevent rust inside the machinery.

In post #9, the statement was made that old timers used to put lithium grease on their barrels and set them outside to rust. There are a few twisted facts there: black powder shooters will rust a worn barrel in order to make a worn/polished bore shoot better. If they used lithium grease for this, they would probably put it on the outside of hte barrel, not the inside.
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Old November 30, 2017, 11:20 AM   #36
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A lot of us race engine builders wiped piston rings, cranks and cams with "outboard grease" (Lithium) to prevent rust on spare engines that would be stored until needed. Prevented rust. Learned that over a half-century ago.
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Old November 30, 2017, 12:20 PM   #37
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The Following Is Sarcasm:

Actually the stuff to use is Anti Seize.

Not the copper type, that would promote sever copper fouling.

The Nickel Based stuff, its good to 1800 deg.

Its prime property is increasing velocity while protecting the barrel from rust and keeping bullets from stopping mid bore.

If its good for Tubo Bolts its good for barrels!
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Old November 30, 2017, 12:31 PM   #38
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OP Here:
What about dry graphite propelled down the barrel as the article states?
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Old December 1, 2017, 09:57 AM   #39
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Lubricated cases, not the bullets, as I recall. They needed the cases lubed in order to function in the gun at the rate of fire.
You guys are right. I mis-remembered that. Thanks.
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Old December 1, 2017, 11:27 AM   #40
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The intent for use of powdered graphite is to reduce friction on moving parts. Being dry, it won't collect dust.

Back around 1950, my uncle had sheets of wax paper with a thin layer of waxy graphite. He would press it onto a case mouth after putting in the powder charge. The presumed advantage was unclear. In my own loading, I never saw any difference in group size of in point of impact, with or without the graphite.
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Old December 3, 2017, 10:06 PM   #41
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It's understandable that you just spent good money on a gun and want to take care of it.

Read the owner's manual, understand how it works. Shoot decent ammo through it (not Tula, not Wolf, and not the cheapest brass .223 you can get). Clean it regularly, keep a light coat of oil on it, keep it climate controlled in low humidity, don't leave it outside or in the truck. Wipe it down lightly when you put it away for use. That will do it.

As for barrel break-in? Shoot it, clean it, repeat.

Anything else else is superstition that not even the high-end match shooters agree on. It works for many of them and others don't do it at all, but it's my opinion it's not required and especially not on a decent factory rifle like a CZ.
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Old December 3, 2017, 10:34 PM   #42
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Shoot the gun regularly and those water-attracting by-products will get pushed out of the barrel (just to be replaced by new water-attracting by-products) but get sick for a few weeks and when you return to your gun, you may not be happy with the result.

So, unless you have an accurate crystal ball, clean your gun every time.
I got cancer that resulted in my taking a full year without shooting my rifle once. And there are guns that I will literally shoot for three months, and then put it away for the next 9 months.

I also pretty much only clean my guns right before a match. I've never had a rust problem in the bore.

As long as your gun is made out of quality materials or has a good finish process done to it rust isn't an issue you have to worry about unless you go scuba diving with your guns or shoot in the rain.
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Old December 4, 2017, 12:48 AM   #43
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The link in the OP is really focusing on the use of soapy solid compounds as boundary lubricants in the barrel. The "grease" is simply a carrier for those solids and a mechanism for their application. The process described doesn't leave grease in the barrel.

Just a clarification. Not trying to support or refute the procedure.
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Old December 6, 2017, 11:27 PM   #44
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I would think a detergent or something slippery like graphite might lubricate a bullet enough that you might notice a minimal reduction in fouling or leadding but as for more speed, thats a long shot... See what i did there
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