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Old May 20, 2017, 06:51 PM   #26
Lee44ShooterCnB
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Check out the
https://imgbb.com
It is free and fast
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Old May 20, 2017, 06:55 PM   #27
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Thanks for the tips guys I'll definitely check those out and move my pics there.

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Old May 20, 2017, 08:32 PM   #28
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Check out
https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=586079
And notice the difference in the pictures
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Old May 20, 2017, 10:20 PM   #29
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Quote:
Thanks for the tips guys I'll definitely check those out and move my pics there.
You don't actually move your photos to tinypic, you just open your browser to tinypic and choose the photo that you want to upload to the internet from your computer photo file and then after it is uploaded, copy the "image" url and paste it here like this:

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Old May 20, 2017, 11:50 PM   #30
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^^ good to know. Sounds so much easier. Thank you, and yes amazing pics.

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Old May 21, 2017, 03:32 PM   #31
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deerslayer303

All the ads on there slows the site down and takes me forever to upload a photo. It may work better on a better internet connection but out here in the sticks all we have available is a paltry DSL connection

There seems to be no option for me to quote a post?

I use, by now 5+ years old, version of Ubuntu.
I NEVER see an add that slows anything down.
Never see them on Youtube, never have a worry about viruses, worms, or anything.
There are 4 or 5 different types of add blocker on this system and they are all still working.

Once I did have a news site refuse to play those little window videos unless I disabled add block, but only once was I so interested in seeing one I had to find a work around to see it.
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Old May 21, 2017, 04:34 PM   #32
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Hang on to that old and still working Ubuntu.
I recently installed their latest and greatest (version 16) on an old desktop, and it promptly crashed.
Didn't even hesitate, just crashed.
I replaced it with version 12 and all is well again.
Guess the days when Linux worked like a champ on old computers is in the past.
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Old May 21, 2017, 06:49 PM   #33
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14.04.5 is the version I have from mid 2014 and I guess the support ends January 2018.
They used to notify me regularly for updates, but I see there are 153 of them now.
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Old May 27, 2017, 05:52 PM   #34
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Question on cleaning the brass.

The Spiller and Burr has some in depth filth issues.
First off, it's the brass inside where the cylinder sits.
The front is where most of it is as well as the back, and it has this dark black staining.
I call it staining as it does not seem to be black powder build up and was even green in places.
There was also some on the bottom where I was not concerned about changing a critical dimension and it was still quite rough from manufacture.
I first used black powder cleaner, then Brasso, then scrubbed with a tooth brush, then a harder plastic bristle brush, then used comet cleanser on the plastic brush, then a soft brass bristle brush.
I finally had to resort to using 220 grit sand paper to get most of it off.
In the recessed areas it is still black.
I assume it's from neglect from firing but did a complete tear down of the rest of the gun and it was clean, and especially clean from rust and corrosion.
Even the nipples were clean and greased on the threads.

Also, the cylinder rotates fairly freely, but does not spin nearly as freely as the new army does.
The barrel sticks out from the frame to reach the cylinder face on the new army, but on the Spiller, the barrel is flush with the frame.
Both guns seem to have about the same cylinder movement front to rear and does not seem to be excessive (taking in to account my total lack of experience with this).
Anyone have a measurement of that clearance for verification?

Any suggestions for cleaning the black stain?
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Old May 27, 2017, 06:32 PM   #35
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Naval Jelly will take it off.
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Old May 27, 2017, 07:21 PM   #36
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How much front to back clearance are we talkin' bout?
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Old May 31, 2017, 01:22 PM   #37
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Beagl333, I'll use a feeler gauge when I get home, but it aint much on either of them and feels about the same.
I went to Cabela's and tried to see if one of those replacement cylinders would fit my new army, and I can get it in, but it will not rotate once the rod is pushed in all the way.

Also, I've been to 5 stores so far that sell black powder supplies and none of them have the 36 caliber balls.
All of them are 44, 50, 54 and one went all the way up to 58 caliber, but nothing smaller.
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Old May 31, 2017, 03:13 PM   #38
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Are you opposed to casting your own?

The expense of boolits with a large meplat got me into casting.

If nothing else there are a few people who sell cast projectiles. I know of a couple on the Remington 1858 forum.
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Old June 19, 2017, 08:53 AM   #39
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 I had the paraffin wax in Candle form, the beeswax showed up two weeks ago, and the mutton Tallow showed up Wednesday, so I now have the lubed wads.
I also made a couple of powder scoops for the FFF Pyrodex aiming for the average recommended grain load for those calipers by the manufacturer.
I have to assume that when people state a certain number of grains for a load it's not by weight but by volume of a particular type of measuring device because when I weighed out the grains, the minimum recommended load completely filled the cylinders on both the 36  cal Spillad & burr and the 44 New Army with no room what so ever for the wad or the ball!
Finally settled on pouring powder into the cylinder until I saw there was enough room for the wad and a lead ball.
I then dumped it into a brass case, marked the case so that I can cut it to size, (300 BLK with a damaged base trimmed to the shoulder for the 36) (a shortened 30-06 with enough of the center removed and the bottle neck soldered back on for the 44) and soldered a handles onto them.
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Old June 19, 2017, 06:00 PM   #40
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Substitutes are by volume. Black powder is by weight and that is converted to volume in essence. But different powders (by volume) weigh differently and substitutes weigh much less.

There is a chart showing what common cartridge cases hold. If you don't have a BP measure that's what you'd really need to do, though a steel frame can handle a full load with a ball and some. A brass frame typically cannot, however the Spiller & Burr isn't a full length cylinder. I'm told it holds about 20 grns which is what many feel a brass frame has as a max load.
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Old June 19, 2017, 08:05 PM   #41
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So, I should still get a powder measure, measure the pyrodex, then make a dipper to fit the volume I want for in the field.
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Old June 19, 2017, 08:47 PM   #42
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You'd do well to get an adjustable powder measure. That way you can try various loads to see what gives you the best accuracy and then you could make a powder measure that drops that amount.

But you don't need one. Yours will work just fine as is, but without testing you won't know what your guns prefer or do best.

I've not tested mine to find out what's the most accurate. I began with a charge I figure to be the minimum for hunting (30 grns) and worked with that. I found the most accurate useful loads. But if I recall you mentioned these were just for targets/plinking.
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Old June 20, 2017, 03:21 PM   #43
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Quote:
You'd do well to get an adjustable powder measure.
What he said.
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Old June 26, 2017, 11:22 AM   #44
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Congratulations on your new purchase!

I have to ask or perhaps i just overlooked it in your post but where did you find such an amazing deal?

I've been looking for another BP revolver, probably in an 1858 or 1860, but mostly just see them on cabelas and the like.
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Old June 26, 2017, 02:09 PM   #45
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Now you must listen to Johnny Cash's "The Last Gunfighter Ballad" and you're ready...
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Old June 26, 2017, 06:18 PM   #46
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Here s Johnny

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-Vm6DzCadTs
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Old June 26, 2017, 06:43 PM   #47
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Thanks fellas! Hadn't heard that Cash song before. I'll be adding it to my collection soon enough!
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Old July 4, 2017, 02:48 PM   #48
Seamus Mc
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Don't be too scared of those brass frame revolvers. As long as the charge is kept down in the low 20s it should shoot for a long time before the brass starts to stretch. Probably last for more rounds than most BP revolvers are ever fired in their lives. Nice find.

Seamus
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Old July 4, 2017, 04:16 PM   #49
archangel2003
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I finally got out the feeler gauges and on the Spillar and Burr that looked like it had been fired, between the frame and the barrel, the .004 fits with .005 too tight.
On the Old Army that was not fired, the .010 feeler gauge fits and .011 is too tight.
The replacement cylinder that I saw at Cabellas in Northern Indiana, was a little too tight to fit all the way into the frame.
I have read that for modern revolvers .006 to .007 is the target, so the Spillar is tight and the New Army is loose.

I assume when you fire the gun and things heat up, the brass frame should expand more than the steel cylinder and barrel so the gap would, perhaps, open up?

When I got an old Iver Johnson in .38 S&W with a huge barrel to cylinder gap, I pulled the barrel, machined one thread width of thickness off the face (so the front sight would index), then took off a couple thousandths off the barrel face until the cylinder fit, then worked a bit off the face until I got to .006 with the barrel torqued so that the front sight lined up.

I have not test fired it yet so don't know if there are forcing cone issues.

Last edited by archangel2003; July 4, 2017 at 04:24 PM.
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