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Old May 8, 2017, 09:48 PM   #1
stagpanther
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new jard curved single-stage trigger--what?

I've been a long-time fan of Jard triggers and have been very pleased with their adjustable triggers in builds--so when I saw that they have a new, simple single stage available from the factory only for about $70.00--I said heck ya I'll give it a shot!

I ordered one with a 3# pull, and installation into an Anderson lower was easy and only took a few minutes. BUUUUT--the trigger pull feels no different from a stock mil-spec trigger--a gritty creep with an equally gritty break at I'm guessing at least 6#.

Additionally, the rear shelf of the trigger will not quite allow the safety to clear once the hammer is installed--the only way to get the safety installed after the trigger is in is to do it before installing the hammer. Not a big deal--unless you need to do a field strip for some reason--extra parts apart means more to lose.

I finally ended up tossing Jard's proprietary springs and replacing them with JP's enhanced, which still needed a bit of bending in order to fit Jard's nutty proprietary hammer design.

The sear catch also needed stoning down--it's basically a deep slot with no angled surface for easy let-off of the sear. In the end--I did the same work I would have starting out with a standard $20 OEM mil-spec trigger. To be fair, I guess it's possible that the dimensions of an Anderson lower do not quite "live well" with their design (I ran into something similar once before sticking a JP comp trigger into a PSA 308 lower, but then PSA does have the courtesy to let you know up front that their receivers don't like other people's parts).

I'm scratching my head over this one--it's a stinker as far as I can tell.
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Old May 9, 2017, 06:13 PM   #2
random guy
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Yeah that blows. Would not have expected that from Jard.

On the subject of Anderson though, Most of my rifles were Anderson based, IIRC two using the Anderson LPK in their lower. This is the LPK which has the bobbed speed hammer as apparently not all Anderson kits do. This, combined with JP springs has given me the best trigger I've ever had in an AR (by a wide margin) and at very low cost. Crisp, clean and light (with JP springs). I can't speak to their GI pattern hammers...both my Anderson LPKs have been as above.

All the website seems to show now is the GI version but many vendors show the speed hammer version.
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Old May 9, 2017, 06:56 PM   #3
stagpanther
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Jard's factory-only hammer has a smaller profile--so most typical hammer springs won't fit properly without some modding--I quickly found out that you can only go so low on the spring before the hammer mass results in light strikes and failure to fire primers. Their own hammer spring can't be modified much without the legs of the spring falling off the trigger pin. The trigger itself is narrow and is a bit prone to "side drift" on the pin. I've used their adjustable triggers on other 308 builds and love the way they work and the robustness of their scheme for adjusting overtravel and sear engagement--I'don't worry as much about them "falling out of tune" as some other exotic trigger groups I've tried.
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Old May 20, 2017, 06:09 AM   #4
stagpanther
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I did call Jard and one of their engineers has done dozens of installs into anderson lowers without the issues I had--so I have to conclude that it was something wrong in the way I was doing it, I just haven't figured it out yet. As I mentioned in another thread, I also bought one of their adjustable designs for a recent 6mm predator build--and like the other jard adjustable triggers I have bought it is awesome and their adjustable triggers remain one of my favorites for any AR builds--at their price point and functional design features I think they beat just about everything else out there--of course that's highly subjective.
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Old May 22, 2017, 06:22 AM   #5
stagpanther
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Since I took my adjustable trigger back apart and got it tuned just right--I decided to take this single-stage back apart as well and re-assemble it--it seems to work smoother now, it looked like the rear shelf of the trigger (which rides under the safety selector) may have been dragging on the side of the cut-out in the receiver (you have to be absolutely sure the pin retention plate is correctly slotted over the trigger and hammer pins). I stoned the sides a bit and put some lube on it--but I still can't figure out how to get the trigger in and out without loosening the grip screw; loosening the selector. Anyway the trigger is smooth and breaks nicely.
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