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February 12, 2013, 06:34 PM | #1 |
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Creating brass from other calibers and general reloading tech
Just getting into reloading, well preparing, researching, and gathering equipment/materials.
So far I have acquired: RCBS press Priming tool Powder measure All the different shell holders One set of dies for .308 Case trimmer for .308 Case lube Digital caliper Hornady book of reloading Things I know I need: Powder scale to calibrate powder measure Vibratory case cleaner Dies for other calibers Cartridge blocks Reloading bench - plan to build one Components - powders, bullets, brass, primers etc. I will be reloading several common calibers and 1 or 2 oddballs. One of the odd balls will be 6.5 Creedmore. I've read here and other places that you can make the brass using 250 Savage or 22-250 brass. Are there other calibers that can be used? How do you take this brass and reform it to be 6.5 creed? Do you just use the normal 6.5 full length sizing die or is there a special die to be used? Also, I know reloading is a cautiously learned process and some keep their secrets/learnings to themselves, but are there any tips you have learned over the years that you would like to share? Any sources for components you choose over the others? Sources for dies and other equipment?
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February 12, 2013, 06:39 PM | #2 |
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Forming brass? Sure it can be done but...
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/528...moor-box-of-50 Source for components, Powder Valley is almost always the lowest price for powder, primers, brass and bullets. Powder and primers, they carry most all, brass and bullets their selection is good but not complete.
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February 13, 2013, 08:03 AM | #3 |
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Thanks for the link to the brass! Too bad nobody seems to have dies...
Any other equipment that I haven't thought of or may make reloading a little easier?
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"Laws that forbid the carrying of arms...disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes...Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man." - Thomas Jefferson, 1776 |
February 13, 2013, 08:33 AM | #4 |
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If you can find the brass for a reasonable price then thats the way to go. However, it's not difficult to first reform by simply running it through a sizing die, and then fire form by shooting a fire forming load.
When 7TCU brass came out it was about 2 or 3 times the cost of 223 brass so I have very little actual headstamped 7TCU and a ton of reformed 223. Depending on your chambers you may or may not need to neck turn or ream your reformed brass. |
February 13, 2013, 08:52 AM | #5 |
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you may want to at least think about your tumbler... alot of people have been switching to the stainless pins & wet tumbling ( I just made the switch & after almost 20 years of reloading, I love the pins, wet tumbling, & how my brass looks afterwards ), & you can't use the pins with the vibratory tumblers, but can use cob or walnut with rotary tumblers ( which are needed to use the pins, if you should decide you want to switch later on )
I reload alot of different cartridges that have been formed from other cases, & it's way more inconvienient than proper head stamp cases... when I started out, it was cheaper to reform, & especially with the Condenders there is often no other option, but I try to buy correct headstamp cases now, when ever I can... generally the extra cost is worth it in my time, trying to figure out what cartridge I actually have, if they get sperated from the labeled box... I don't think you need a digital caliper, in fact I prefer a standard ( metal ) one, seems every time I need my digital, the batterys are dead... never have a problem with a standard caliper... hope you are not in a hurry for components... sounds like they'll be tough to get for quite a while...
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February 13, 2013, 10:03 AM | #6 |
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Lots of good insight and info, much appreciated!
I hear rumors that more mfg will be offering 6.5 creed brass so I'll probably just stick to buying a little here and there. I have 100 or so once fired .308 brass and another 400 or so factory cartidges yet to fire so I think I'm good there....for now. I'm not in any big rush to get components, wouldn't do much good even if I was in the current situation... I'm in gathering mode right now. Info, techniques, equipment etc. Decided I'm going to stick with the single stage press for my rifle cartridges and get a turret or progressive for my pistol needs. Any more info on the pins wet tumbling set up? Is this like the sonic cleaners I've been seeing? Any advantages other than the brass looks better after cleaning? Again, thanks for all the help and info!
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"Laws that forbid the carrying of arms...disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes...Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man." - Thomas Jefferson, 1776 |
February 13, 2013, 10:41 AM | #7 |
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There are advantages to having perfectly clean brass. Those little bits of carbon get blasted down your barrel like sand paper, every shot. It's not like you're talking killing your barrel in 100 rounds, but it might make the difference between 3,500 rounds and 4,000, as examples.
Also, you can load highly precise ammo on a turret press. I use a Lee Classic Turret exclusively and routinely shoot 1/3-1/2 MOA at 100 and 3/4 MOA at 400. That with a bone-stock (except trigger) Ruger M77 MkII. MidWayUSA has several options for dies in 6.5 Creedmore too.
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