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February 16, 2016, 08:24 PM | #26 |
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What eighteen steps are there?
Fill tumbler with brass, add water and a bit of shining agent. Tumble for as long as you like. Drain water, brass, and pins into the separator. Spin the water and remaining pins out of the brass. Dry the brass. Flush the dirty water from the pins and rinse, replace pins in tumbler for next batch. Seems to take me about 5 minutes total handling time for a batch. |
February 16, 2016, 08:24 PM | #27 |
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I love ours. I did see the first picture and I learned not to put 357 and 45-70 at same time for that reason. Mine are bottleneck and 45-70 first and do all my hand gun brass separate. We bought a strainer from Northern tool to go pretty deep inside a five gallon bucket. Clean dump in bucket. Wash pins and back in tumbler. Wet doesn't matter so far. Rinse brass in another bucket for few minutes and throw in Frankford Arsenal dryer. Nothing more than a $30.00 food dehydrater. The magnet we use for what few pins straggle onto table or in garage sink. Also put a small plastic strainer in the sink so no pins have been lost yet. I wouldn't do it any other way since we got it.
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February 17, 2016, 03:40 AM | #28 | |
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February 17, 2016, 06:24 AM | #29 |
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Its actually takes me less time to get better looking, completely clean cases with wet tumbling than it ever did with vibrating tumblers. The added steps really aren't that demanding or time consuming. For me the benefits outweigh the little extra effort.
Mind you some of the benefits may be pure mental, but if you shoot competitively you know a big part of that game is mental. I'd rather spend a little extra time upfront rather than shoot on the 600 yard line at a match wondering "what if", and have my confidence go straight down the tubes. |
February 17, 2016, 06:36 AM | #30 | |||
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February 17, 2016, 09:18 AM | #31 |
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I still do both methods.
Dry is easier, just dump in and dump out but you don't need a PHD in chemistry and mechanical engineering to wet tumble, just a little more stuff to deal with. I wouldn't want stainless pins that were not magnetic and mine have never rusted. |
February 17, 2016, 09:47 AM | #32 |
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I got into the SS pin tumbling craze when it first started. It worked great! I quickly got tired of the wet-mess & sold all my stuff off. I went back to the tried & true vibrating polisher. Then I started making bullets out of .22 RF cases. To get the jacket insides squeaky clean I found out that the SS tumbler was a MUST have. I tried the ultrasonic route too, but I had poor luck mastering that - perhaps it is the cheap HF unit(?)
Now that I'm figuring it all out, I appreciate both the SS method & the vibratory method. I feel that if you can afford it, "Mr. Complete Handloader" needs both. There is plenty of advice on both methods & now that I have done enough in the FA tumbler there is really very little mess & work to deal with. I believe that you need to find out what works for you & stick with it - quit experimenting. You can over-do with either method. Be consistent to get consistent results. FWIW... ...bug |
February 17, 2016, 10:22 AM | #33 |
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What shape of pin ENDS do you use? (Brand?)
Rounded pins didn't seem to get the primer pockets clean in the corners for me, I use pins that are square end with a slight radius break from side to end now, They seem to get the corners of the primer pockets cleaner. Smaller diameter pins get those flash holes cleaner also. When I use a round container (PVC Pipe) with no 'Stir' blades/bumps installed, The brass took a lot longer, but came out high polished. The 8 sided drum that I started with cleaned a little faster, but it didnt polish quite as well, really clean when I stopped, just not quite as much polish when cleaned. Now I use a drum with blades to mix brass. I've tried long blades to mix up brass, but short blades in the drum seem to work as well and the brass comes out just as clean, And the shorter the blades the higher the polish I'm seeing. The only thing I can think of is the less mixing, the more time the pins have to rub/polish the cases instead of being constantly displaced and have to settle back in, compact, and clean/polish the cases... Just my theroy. At the recomendation of the guys here, I'm using citric acid in the water, And it makes a BIG difference! A little industral hand cleaner (cheaper & more concentrated than Dawn) and some citric acid based parts cleaner, and they are ready to work in about two hours, high polish takes longer. |
February 17, 2016, 05:53 PM | #34 |
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Magnetic or non-magnetic stainless doesn't have to do with "quality", it has to do with chemistry.
200 and 300 series stainless is non magnetic - this is austentic stainless. High chrome and high nickel contents that provide the corrosion resistance. Non-heat treatable, but will work harden very easily. 400 series stainless is magnetic - this is martenistic stainless steel. High chrome, moly and small amounts of carbon are added. Still corrosion resistant, but not as much as the 300 series, but can be heat treated and work hardened. Ferritic stainless alloys are magnetic as well, usually designated by Cr series (18Cr, 26Cr, etc.) As far as tumbling, some of you seem to make it a much more difficult process than it is (at least to me), and some seem to think it is significantly more difficult than it really is. I have a fairly simple system - I use a paint strainer bag and a collander to capture pins, do my pin separation work under water so that surface tension does not adhere pins to the walls of brass, and a simple box fan dries brass in a surprisingly short amount of time. I've never had a pin stick in the primer pocket either that I can recall (STM pins). Use citric acid and Armor All Wash-N-Wax (leaves a thin wax coating on the pins that acts as a corrosion barrier and a lubricant in the dies). There is no need to dry pins out between uses - put them back in your tumbler barrel with some clean water and they are ready for the next use. All stainless will rust given the right conditions - stainless does not mean rust proof, it simply means it "stains less" than your run of the mill carbon series steels. |
February 17, 2016, 09:24 PM | #35 |
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February 18, 2016, 12:53 AM | #36 |
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Over the years I have learned three things.
1. Don't fight gravity. 2. Don't argue with the wife. 3. When you do argue with the wife and win, you still lose, make sure that you have a luxury "dog house/man cave." Now this is how I put gravity to work for me. After I run my f.a.r.t. I put the stopper in my wash tub and just pour everything in to the tub. I then fill the tub up with 6" of water and work everything around. Then I pull the stopper. I take my spray hose and rinse everything down the drain including the pins. The brass is stopped by the cross bars in the drain. I then put the brass on my drying racks. Then I reach under the sink and unscrew my pin catcher that is screwed into a trap assy. that has a clean out plug in it. I then pour the pins on a special drying rack, and I am done. |
February 18, 2016, 01:23 AM | #37 | |
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February 18, 2016, 10:03 AM | #38 | |
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schrapnel
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Nice idea, I call them schrapnel because the first thing I did when I bought my F.A.R.T was drop the bag of pins on the garage floor. Of course it broke open on impact, scattering them half way across the garage. Hence the the name schrapnel. Good thing they are magnetic otherwise I'd have probably swept them out the garage door and ordered another bag.
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February 18, 2016, 03:30 PM | #39 |
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I empty the tumbler cylinder into a 5 gal paint strainer. Then rinse the brass off in the strainer. Then I use a media separator to get the ss pins out. My Lyman separator does a pretty good job of removing the pins. Then I dump the brass on a towel and quickly pat them dry mainly to prevent water spots from the tap water used to rinse. The brass dries overnight. I use my vibe tumbler with lizard bedding to remove the one shot case lube after sizing. One hour is all it takes. It's a lot of steps but I enjoy the time spent.
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February 18, 2016, 06:32 PM | #40 |
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Last week I bought 100 once fired 44 Mag cases .
The seller said he had cleaned them WET WITH PINS , It was great looking brass Very Very clean . But still to much like a job . |
February 19, 2016, 07:28 PM | #41 |
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I just finished tumbling a big batch: About 400 45-ACP; along with about 200 44-Special.
I dropped down to 65 graMs of RCBS Ultrasonic cleaning solution; and as usual, I filled the barrel to about 85% capacity with water. 1-hour, 45-minute tumble - as always. Everything came out nice n bright n shiny white-yellow. Just the way I like it I've been testing less and less solution - just to see where the clean/shine threshold is.
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February 20, 2016, 07:11 PM | #42 |
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For drying wet cases.
Try Blowing them out with a air hose and place on a large towel placed in the sun. The sun heats up the cases fast and they will be bone dry in 15-20 min. |
February 20, 2016, 10:22 PM | #43 |
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I am a fan of wet tumbling. I think it is fast, easy and clean. I use a F.A.R.T., one of the rotating separators mounted over a five gallon bucket. I rotate the separator very slowly in both directions for maybe 30 seconds, and I get all but maybe 5 pins that stick in a case or to the towel that I dry on. Fast, easy and clean!
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February 21, 2016, 11:40 AM | #44 |
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You guys are great. I learned a lot more about pin tumbling on this thread than anywhere else I looked, but like Gary et al I've decided it's not for me. As always this has been very enlightening, thank you all.
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February 26, 2016, 11:42 PM | #45 |
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Couple of things... After spinning out the pins with my Dillon-separator (really too awesome to describe further without drooling, it works so well, here is the link : https://www.dillonprecision.com/cm-2...8_8_23662.html ), I used a salad-spinner to start drying, which did okay 1 lb. at a time, removed most of the water but still had to let them dry more, spread out on beach towels (easy to manage, grab the towel corners and direct the brass toward dumping area. Then once, just once, I used the big foil pan things that were 12" x 24" x 4" or so, in the kitchen oven at 200º, the smell and some minor smoke got me kicked out. So the next time I do this, TBD, will be with a mid-range multi-stack dehydrator with temp control & timer, around $70 on eBay, has 6 trays & can handle 12 trays, it's best deal that I have researched at length.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Presto-06301...IAAOSwe7BWxjLz |
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