GP100 vs 686

[LBussy]

I believe I might be in the market for a new wheelgun. Looking for .357, 4" barrel, SS finish. I used to own a GP100 and really liked it but the 686 is an obvious contender in this search. I'm interested to hear a comparison of these if any of you have owned (or at least fired) both.

One thing I really like about the GP100 is the ability to break it down into modular pieces for cleaning. Not sure how this bears out for long term use but that seems like a good idea.

[laytonj1]

Before another S&W vs Ruger debate starts, smith guys will tell you to get the 686 and Ruger guys will tell you to get the GP...
I've owned both and liked them equally. You can't go wrong with either one. Since it's for you, only you can decide.

Jim

[LBussy]

The debates are helpful - and the free popcorn is great!

One learns quickly to separate religion from fact. The rest of it is just entertainment.

Surely there are concrete differences that might play into my decision (like the break-down of the GP100)?

[T. O'Heir]

"...to break it down into modular pieces..." There's absolutely no reason to ever do that for normal cleaning. Only required for a trigger job. Mind you, the innards of a GP are made of SS. Polishes up nicely when you do the trigger. And you don't need any special tools the Smith requires.
The advantage the GP has is its smaller grip frame that fits normal sized hands that an 'L' or 'K' frame Smith does not. So you must try the Smith on for size.
Have had a GP since about 1985. Had a Smith 19 that never quite fit no matter how many grips I tried.

[laytonj1]

For general cleaning the S&W was easier. One screw and the cylinder and crane slide right off. The crane slides off the cylinder and it makes it real easy to clean.
On the GP you have to remove the grips, mainspring, push in a nub and slide the guts out. The crane does not separate from the cylinder easily. However, it makes for a much easier detail disassembly though.
The smith had a better trigger, period. The GP has a nice double action trigger.
Both weight about the same. Both currently use MIM parts.
Both are great guns and have been around for awhile.

Jim

[UncleEd]

All right, enough equivocation.

No one has given a definitive answer as to
which LBussy should get.


So, all of you, are you ready. He should
buy the

[LBussy]

Uncle Ed ... Nooooooooooooo!

[jwise]

I really like the double-action trigger on my 586. I can shoot it so much better than my dad's GP100. That and the classic lines of the S&W made it a no-brainer for me.

[MrBorland]

I'm cutting and pasting again earlier replies from the last time this question came up . My reply below was in the context of the the Master Champion (Ruger) and SSR (S&W) variants, but goes into a comparison of the GP100 and 686 in general.

From "Ruger GP 100.357 Mag.4" & S&W .686 .357 Mag.4" your choice why?":
Personally, whichever one I'd get, it'd be in the standard (i.e. full underlug) configuration. I don't know what your intended use it, but when things speed up, the extra weight under the barrel makes a difference. The extra tuning in the MC & SSR is minimal, so spending the difference on action work on a standard model will result in a nicer gun, IMO.

So, as far as the MC or SSR, it's a tough call. I'm a fan of the 686, but always been impressed by the GP100 and wouldn't hesitate to get one. Both models have their pros and cons. I tried to rattle a few of them off in a post earlier this year, so I'll just cut and paste from that post. In no particular order...

The S&W has a reputation for being a bit more refined and having a better factory trigger. Truth be told, with some very rare exceptions, neither factory trigger is on par with what it could and should be with some good tuning. Both the 686 and GP100 respond really well to tuning. I'm an admitted trigger snob, and one of the best triggers I've ever felt was on a tuned GP100.

You'll hear a lot about the superior "strength" of the Ruger, generally referring to the tensile strength of the frame & cylinder. Maybe so, but both are plenty strong enough for anything you ought to be shooting through it. More relevant are differences in design that can affect durability. One of the Achilles heels of the S&W design is the yoke screw, IMO. It's the only thing keeping the entire yoke/cylinder assembly from falling off the front of the gun when the cylinder's open. It's generally not a problem, but if you plan on doing quick reloads with speed loaders, it can become a problem very quickly if you use a weak hand reload to slam those rounds home.

Another Achilles heel of the S&W design is that the cylinder assembly locks in front via the ejector rod, and the ejector rod turns as the cylinder turns. A bent ejector rod, then, can affect the quality of the DA pull. In extreme cases, it can tie the action up. In contrast, the GP100s ejector rod doesn't turn, and the cylinder locks up front at the yoke.

GP100s use a coil mainspring, whereas the 686 uses a flat leaf spring. The latter (leaf springs) have a reputation for producing a more consistent DA trigger pull.

As "internal safeties", GP100s use a transfer bar, whereas the 686 uses a hammer block. They essentially do opposite functions. The transfer bar of the GP100 transfers the energy of the hammer strike to the firing pin. I can't say I've ever measured it, but logic tells me some "oomph" is lost in the transfer and, as a result, the GP100 action can't be tuned quite as aggressively as the S&Ws. Logic also tells me the GP100 is instantly disabled if the transfer bar breaks, whereas a broken hammer block won't disable a 686 (unless the broken piece falls into the lockwork and ties it up).

The S&W cylinder release gets pushed forward with your thumb, whereas it gets pushed into the frame on the GP100. Personally, I think the S&W push-type is more intuitive and faster. Likely not an issue unless you're competing and going for über-fast reloads. And even then, I've seen some pretty darned fast GP100 competitors.It really comes down to personal preference.

At least the 4" GP100 comes with an interchangeable front sight, which is a very nice feature. The red ramp front sight of the 686 is mediocre. It's a jack-of-all trades front sight. If you're going to do anything serious with your 686, it needs something better. Fortunately, I believe the SSR front sight is the interchangeable type.

Finally, replacing some GP100 parts requires a trip back to the factory, and if it does go back to the factory, it'll come back in factory-stock condition. Something to be aware of if you modify and/or tune your gun. AFAIK, most parts that might ever need replacing on a S&W are available via commercial vendors, and there are numerous aftermarket parts for the 686 as well.

[DaleA]

If you want some really good advice read post #9 again.

For something different...well I'm almost always on the side of Rugers but you've already HAD a Ruger so get the S&W...variety is the spice of life.

[LBussy]

That's a great list of comparison items, thank you! I'll also go read that other thread as it seems like it might have some information to glean.

[LBussy]

DaleA I have a Model 13 now so .... I need a Ruger next to it by your rule. That Model 13 has the sweetest action of any revolver I've ever owned. Anything I buy will be compared to that. Hopefully I can get close.

[Doc Holliday 1950]

I generally do not get into this but the biggest mistake that I've made in the past 4 years was trading in my GP 100 for the 686 plus. Being an average Monday shooter the DA's were almost equal, the GP was better & the SA went to the Smith. Neither one had any work done to it. I just sent the Smith back to the factory today for problems with the grips and the DA. I shoulda, woulda, coulda.
Hindsight is always the best. Good luck.

[tallball]

The solution is quite obvious: buy both of them!

[dahermit]

"...to break it down into modular pieces..." There's absolutely no reason to ever do that for normal cleaning. Only required for a trigger job. Mind you, the innards of a GP are made of SS. Polishes up nicely when you do the trigger. And you don't need any special tools the Smith requires.
The advantage the GP has is its smaller grip frame that fits normal sized hands that an 'L' or 'K' frame Smith does not. So you must try the Smith on for size.
Have had a GP since about 1985. Had a Smith 19 that never quite fit no matter how many grips I tried.

Would you please list the "special tools" that Smith & Wesson's require? Do you mean a common set of gunsmith screwdrivers?

[wild cat mccane]

No. I've owned both in current productions. No. The triggers aren't even close to being the same.

The GP100 feels two stage in DA. You pull, it changes speeds in the pull towards the end, a little more effort, boom. Good or bad, it isn't continuous. Some like it because you really can stage the pull in DA like you would in SA. I don't care for for the very obvious change in pull.
In SA you have some pre travel.

On the 686 it's constant DA pull, boom. On single action it is pull/touch boom.

Very significant difference.

One thing against the GP100, the sights are well documented online for being a hot mess in the back which, documented, can hurt accuracy of the GP100.

[LBussy]

Originally Posted by wild cat mccane

One thing against the GP100, the sights are well documented online for being a hot mess in the back which, documented, can hurt accuracy of the GP100.

I'd not heard that, so I did a little reading. Thanks for pointing it out.

[glockman55]

I have the 4.2" GP 100 and a 4" S&W mod 19, For me the Ruger is a better fit, the Smith has a better trigger.. the 686 is about the same fit as he 19 for me.. get them both if you can,,

[wild cat mccane]

The GP100 actually has more limited grip options. You will notice many have a hump on the palm side. No thanks. 686, heck you can get any number of wood configs off ebay for $40. I have and they are terrific. Ruger only recently brought back the Lett wood/rubber grips. Those are about the best comfort grips on the GP100.

The GP100 has a longer length to trigger than the 686. I have small hands. It is much easier to reach the 686 trigger than the GP100.

I like both for different reasons, but I am cleaning up wrong posts.

[MrBorland]

Originally Posted by wild cat mccane

The GP100 has a longer length to trigger than the 686. I have small hands. It is much easier to reach the 686 trigger than the GP100.

IIRC, some (including me) feel the opposite. Relative trigger reach is likely dependent on the grips that're on the gun.

And as long as we're on the topic of trigger reach, getting a proper and high grip on the revolver is important - this helps control, but gets your finger closer to the trigger, too. People often grip their revolver too low, IMO. When gripping your revolver, you shouldn't see any backstrap peeking out from under the webbing between your strong thumb and trigger finger.

Grip too low:


A proper and high revolver grip:

[DavidAGO]

I own both and have shot both a lot in the past. I consider myself a S&W guy, so religion-wise I lean that way. BUT, in the past 2 1/2 years, since I have been able to get back into shooting large calibers again I find I only take the Ruger out. The Smith has gotten pushed to the back of the safe. the Ruger fits me better and after it went back to Ruger for a gritty trigger issue it is a superior trigger to the Smith. I have never taken either one down to clean it, see no need to so that is a non issue to me.

I vote for the GP100

David

[UncleEd]

It seems 50-50 in preference.

So obviously the GP 100 is the winner.
And the 686 is the winner as well.

That also means 50 percent of the
posters don't know what they're
talking about or just stubborn and
wrong-headed.

A first for a gun forum.

[223 shooter]

For general cleaning the S&W was easier. One screw and the cylinder and crane slide right off. The crane slides off the cylinder and it makes it real easy to clean.
On the GP you have to remove the grips, mainspring, push in a nub and slide the guts out. The crane does not separate from the cylinder easily. However, it makes for a much easier detail disassembly though.

The smith had a better trigger, period. The GP has a nice double action trigger.

Having owned both at the same time and firing many times at the same shooting session I have the same experience as the above post. For target use the Smith single action wins hands down for me. In the revolver bullseye league I used to shoot in nearly everyone shot a Smith. In double action I thought both were pretty good.

I now longer have my original 686 or my GP100. But do currently have a couple 1990s 686s. I have come close to adding a GP100 again a few times and like the easily replaced front sight. I can no longer clearly see the orange ramp Smith sight these days but the 686 with the drilled and tapped frame made it easy to use a red dot. With a GP100 a HiViz style sight would be an easy upgrade.

[DPris]

What's the problem with the Ruger sights?
Denis

[FrankenMauser]

I own both.
I like both.
I've shot many additional variants of each model line.

Speaking of my own revolvers, a ~2010 .327 Federal GP100 4" and a 1988 .357 Mag 'Midnight Black' 686 6":
For robustness, longevity, and ease of basement workbench upgrades, I would lean toward the Ruger.
For more refinement and slightly less weight, I would grab the S&W.

I, personally, prefer the factory Ruger grips over the factory S&W grips, as well. But that's something that's easily changed with either model line, and is highly personal.


I think the most telling things about the comparison of my own are the following:
1. When I go hunting and want a sidearm smaller than a .44 Mag but bigger than my SP101, I grab the GP100. I trust it. I know it's accurate. It can take a beating better than the 686, should I do something stupid like falling down a rock face or rolling the ATV.
2. The GP100 has been clean, preserved, packed in the original box, and ready to be sold for almost five months (along with a couple other decent firearms), to finance a big step in another direction. ...But I can't bring myself to do it. Everything else can go, and many other things already have. But I can't bring myself to sell the GeeP. I think I could get myself to sell the 686 before the GP100...