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December 2, 2018, 06:28 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: June 2, 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 77
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Suppose you were trying to build the smoothest-operating 5.56 AR...
More or less, I'm headed in that very direction.
Because of my budget a few years ago, I started out with a PSA 16" Mid-length gas system for my first AR. I've added quite a few parts already. Sitting atop the upper is a Nikon P223 3-9x40, and with Hornady Superformance rounds ($1.10 for me locally) the nitrided mid-weight barrel can do 0.75 MOA. I shot two three-round groups back to back that fell almost exactly at 3/4" at 100 yards one afternoon back in (this) summer, and ever since I've been a PSA fanboy. My use for this rifle then, would be target/bench, and eventually coyote hunting, as I have several good friends who have begun to dabble in predator hunting. Parts I have added (and that were on the rifle when I shot those stellar groups: -Seekins Pro adjustable gas block -Jerry Miculek muzzlebrake -Magpul STR (Decent cheek weld with the "comb") Everything else is pretty much Mil-spec; no free-floating hand guard though; it's a Magpul MOE-SL with a bipod attached at the far end. My trigger is...a well-polished -CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED--CENSORED-. It's stock from PSA with two exceptions: the hand grip screw was replaced with a modified one; there's a smaller-diameter setscrew that's threaded into it- this actually took a lot of the creep out of the trigger. The second modification: JP enterprises reduced power springs; lessens the pull weight to ~3.5-4.5 lbs (don't have a gage but it feels about double my known 2# Savage accutrigger that graces the heart of another fantastic rifle). So it's a Mil-spec trigger group with $12 worth of modifications. It's laughable, I'm sure, but it must be working for me...I may have had two light strikes with bulk federal ammo in 200 or more rounds. I'm very cautious every time I lock the rifle away to make sure the hammer is not cocked, so as to not prematurely wear out the lighter springs. Shooting the rifle is enjoyable enough; at the outset it had a pretty appreciable muzzle flip, but that was partially corrected with the muzzlebrake. I'm sure other models might reap greater benefits, but the Jerry Miculek designed-and-sponsored brake had pretty good reviews, and was a steal at $40 for the difference I can feel from it. At this point, I'm wondering if the recoil impulse could be made any smoother at all- for the sole purpose or making very quick, very accurate follow up shots. However, if I were to continue modifying my rifle, I'm not really sure what would be the best next turn. It currently has a carbine (H) buffer and spring installed...toying with the idea of buying an H3 buffer, so I could effectively between the two make either an H1, H2 or H3, and step up one weight interval at a time. I've read limited information about lightweight BCGs, but it seems those are best appreciated on lightweight competition-style guns. I'm also curious what a suppressor might do in terms of muzzle flip, though unless I really get into predator hunting, I couldn't see waiting the 6-9 months for a $450 (or more if I didn't go with Rebel Silencers' "Alliance" $250 suppressor) gun part. Has anyone gone to this level of detail with a build? I do have other modifications in mind eventually for even more precision, things like a Magpul PRS stock and a real trigger, something from Geissele or Timney. But in terms of smoothness of the moving/rotating mass, I would appreciate any pointers, tips or even anecdotes of similar research/experimentation. Cheers! |
December 2, 2018, 06:32 PM | #2 |
Member
Join Date: June 2, 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 77
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Did I really get censored for spelling T U R D ?!
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December 2, 2018, 07:41 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 13, 2013
Posts: 324
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Larue trigger 87 bucks.
Vltor or bcm A5 buffer system. |
December 2, 2018, 07:52 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 15, 2017
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,104
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Good move switching to an adjustable gas block and I love the Michulek comp, have one on my super light carbine and it works great. Try the JP Enterprises Silent Capture spring. No boing noise and smooths out the recoil pulse. Just bought another one on Black Friday sale.
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December 2, 2018, 09:33 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 17, 2009
Posts: 1,089
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Smoothest ?.. Or soft shooting ?
First, give the Trigger the ParaCord Trigger Job...treatment Next.. check the interior of the buffer tube... if the surface is rough or uneven, you can imagine how a non-polished recoil spring would grind over it. You can polish the interior of the buffer tube, and purchase a polished recoil spring. Buy this.. and install it..https://www.nokick.com/Limbsaver_Rec...p/ls-10025.htm Same guys sell the polished JP recoil spring. A little reasonable polishing will go a long way towards making it smoother. Heavier buffers do also help. |
December 2, 2018, 10:39 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: June 12, 2000
Location: Texas and Oklahoma area
Posts: 8,462
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I’d have MSTN build me a 17” upper with rifle gas. Add a brake to that and you won’t see the reticle move even with 4x magnification.
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December 3, 2018, 12:55 AM | #7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 19, 2012
Location: Western PA
Posts: 3,829
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This. The VLTOR A5 buffer system is the only major change you haven’t made yet.
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0331: "Accuracy by volume." |
December 3, 2018, 12:58 AM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 19, 2012
Location: Western PA
Posts: 3,829
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A silencer will lower recoil, but a decent muzzle brake will lower recoil more than a silencer.
__________________
0331: "Accuracy by volume." |
December 3, 2018, 02:56 AM | #9 |
member
Join Date: June 12, 2000
Location: Texas and Oklahoma area
Posts: 8,462
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Re: silencer
In my experience, a silencer is less effective than a muzzle brake. While it does reduce recoil and noise, the extra 20oz on the end of a 16” lever slows you down a lot. I discovered this doing box drills with my favorite AR when I bought my first suppressor. It shocked me how much slower I was with the suppressor as I expected it to go the other way. Also a good example of why you shouldn’t take advice from anyone who doesn’t own a shot timer. |
December 3, 2018, 08:29 AM | #10 |
Junior member
Join Date: February 2, 2010
Posts: 6,846
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My current preference is an 18" rifle gassed barrel. Just barely enough gas for 100% function open and no beating it'self up with a muffler. No adjustments needed.
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December 3, 2018, 11:15 AM | #11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 4, 2013
Location: Western slope of Colorado
Posts: 3,679
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Yep, 18”Rifle gas gets my nod. Then play with buffer weights to fine tune.
If you must go shorter then 18” with rifle gas, (say 16” and carbine gas), an adj gas block is going to be needed for “optimal” smoothness. |
December 3, 2018, 12:12 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: August 25, 2008
Location: In the valley above the plain
Posts: 13,424
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If you want a smoother/softer recoil impulse, you need a longer barrel and longer gas system.
My preference is for 20" and rifle gas. A longer barrel and rifle+ (extended rifle) gas system would be even better. I've owned pistol, carbine, mid-length, and rifle gas; with carbine and mid-length on same-length, same-weight barrels, as well as 18" and 20" barrels w/ rifle gas. The longer the barrel and gas system, the 'smoother' the recoil impulse feels. If you want the action to cycle more smoothly, send the whole thing out for Nickel Boron coating/plating.
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