PC rubbing off bullet observation and solution

BJung · January 16, 2021, 05:54 PM

I pulled a few 45-200LSWC bullets yesterday using my kinetic puller and noticed than all of them had the pain rubbed off. If such is the case, the exposed lead would rub off in my barrel. I took a hammer and smashed a bullet with a hammer, even at an angle and the pain remained on the lead without chipping off. I am thinking that maybe I should lube the bullets before seating them. Any opinions?

**Unclenick** · January 16, 2021, 06:08 PM

When you trim and chamfer a case you get a sharp edge that can shave a coating off. But flaring a pistol case usually solves that. You could dip the bullets in a thinned solution of Lee Liquid Alox to lube them directly. You could also sprinkle motor mica powder on the coating while it is tacky to have a dry lube coating. It resembles using powdered aspirin to give the bullets something for the pain.

USSR · January 16, 2021, 07:10 PM

I feel your pain, BJung.

Don

BJung · January 16, 2021, 11:36 PM

Thanks for the suggestions. To cases were flared. The next time I PC, I suppose I can single PC and double PC bullets and see if there's a difference. Maybe some paint rubs off easier than others.

5whiskey · January 16, 2021, 11:49 PM

You may be flaring the case, but I don’t think you’re flaring enough. Loading cast requires a healthy case mouth flare. You should basically be able to get a flat base bullet started straight by hand. If you can’t, you will get shaving of the projectile on at least one side.

BJung · January 16, 2021, 11:53 PM

Maybe but I think I'm ok. I don't like to excessively flare my cases. I flare them just enough where the base fits into the case and can stand on its own.

5whiskey · January 17, 2021, 12:49 AM

Quote:

I flare them just enough where the base fits into the case and can stand on its own.

Hmm. If you can fit it into the case by a bit the flare should be enough. I would still try adding a bit more. That’s what I did to stop shaving lead during seating. Most pistol brass is cheap, plentiful, and lasts forever anyways. If you cut your case life of 9mm from 30 firings to 20, you still haven’t lost all that much.

If we’re talking .38 S&W that is not cheap and hard to come by, then rock on I understand babying the case.

DukeConnor · January 17, 2021, 05:20 AM

Problem solved.

https://noebulletmolds.com/site/prod...r-plug-pistol/

BJung · January 17, 2021, 11:08 AM

That's doable I suppose. I'd have to buy the NOE tool and then turn it down to .451" since the case bullet is sized to .452". I will use Remington cases because the wall thickness is thinnest and as a result of resizing from the outside diameter, the inside diameter is the largest.

recoil junky · January 17, 2021, 01:15 PM

Heaven forbid we get lead in our pistol barrels.

Am I just old and don't understand the craze of powder coating, still thinking my #45 Lubrisizer still does its intended job and doesn't create extra steps even when adding gas checks?

RJ

BJung · January 17, 2021, 01:50 PM

I wouldn't worry about the PC paint in your barrel. I removed it from lead bullets by soaking it in acetone. It came off like paint remover on paint.

reddog81 · January 17, 2021, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DukeConnor

Problem solved.

https://noebulletmolds.com/site/prod...r-plug-pistol/

I use these for a couple cartridges. They work well. for .452 cast bullets I'd go with 454 x 450. The .454 step will open up the brass for easy seating of the bullet and the .450 section would be ideal for a .452 sized bullet.

I use the NOE expander plugs in the standard Lee Powder though expander dies. You can use an appropriate sized wooden dowel to set them in place so they don't float in the die.

jetinteriorguy · January 18, 2021, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reddog81

I use these for a couple cartridges. They work well. for .452 cast bullets I'd go with 454 x 450. The .454 step will open up the brass for easy seating of the bullet and the .450 section would be ideal for a .452 sized bullet.

I use the NOE expander plugs in the standard Lee Powder though expander dies. You can use an appropriate sized wooden dowel to set them in place so they don't float in the die.

I’ve always been curious about using the NOE expanders with the Lee powder through dies. Are they bored through for the powder like the Lee die?

dahermit · January 18, 2021, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by recoil junky

Heaven forbid we get lead in our pistol barrels.

Am I just old and don't understand the craze of powder coating, still thinking my #45 Lubrisizer still does its intended job and doesn't create extra steps even when adding gas checks?

RJ

There are several advantages to powder coating. Here is an article that lists some of them.
https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2017/...imping%20dies.

reddog81 · January 18, 2021, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy

I’ve always been curious about using the NOE expanders with the Lee powder through dies. Are they bored through for the powder like the Lee die?

The ones I have are solid. I just use the Lee powder through expander rather than buying a new die to use.

**Unclenick** · January 18, 2021, 03:05 PM

If it is for handgun calibers, take a look at the Lyman Multi-expander. It is a powder-through die that comes with a set of M-profile tubes for all the most common pistol calibers (32, 9mm, 38/357, 10mm/40 S&W, 41, 44, & 45 calibers).

jetinteriorguy · January 20, 2021, 07:46 PM

Ah, thanks UN.

Grey_Lion · February 5, 2021, 08:41 AM

One thing missing from this thread -

Are you putting the powder coated round through a sizing die before reloading? I find doing that is a must for lots of reasons from preventing scraping off the PC to preventing squibs.

As mentioned above - definitely flare the case mouth to prevent the PC being scraped off.

big al hunter · February 6, 2021, 12:42 PM

Quote:

I pulled a few 45-200LSWC bullets yesterday using my kinetic puller and noticed than all of them had the pain rubbed off.

When I loaded my first powder coated rounds I had a cartridge that looked off. I too was learning about how much flare I needed. I pulled that bullet with a kenetic puller. Like yours, it had much of the powder coating scraped off. It was a 44 mag, so I had a firm roll crimp. I was concerned about the coating coming off. When I tested the loads I found no leading of the barrel. I dug some of the bullets out of the dirt bank I was shooting into. The powder coating was scratched severely by both the barrel and dirt. I figured there are some differences between shooting them and pulling them in regards to what happens to the surface of the bullet. My theory is that the case expands and releases the bullet, rather than pushing it out and scraping the coating off. I may be wrong, but the results are showing no lead in my barrel. It works, that's all I need to know for sure.

January 16, 2021, 05:54 PM	#1
BJung Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2019 Posts: 773	PC rubbing off bullet observation and solution I pulled a few 45-200LSWC bullets yesterday using my kinetic puller and noticed than all of them had the pain rubbed off. If such is the case, the exposed lead would rub off in my barrel. I took a hammer and smashed a bullet with a hammer, even at an angle and the pain remained on the lead without chipping off. I am thinking that maybe I should lube the bullets before seating them. Any opinions?

January 16, 2021, 06:08 PM	#2
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,061	When you trim and chamfer a case you get a sharp edge that can shave a coating off. But flaring a pistol case usually solves that. You could dip the bullets in a thinned solution of Lee Liquid Alox to lube them directly. You could also sprinkle motor mica powder on the coating while it is tacky to have a dry lube coating. It resembles using powdered aspirin to give the bullets something for the pain. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

January 16, 2021, 07:10 PM	#3
USSR Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 2017 Location: Finger Lakes Region of NY Posts: 1,442	I feel your pain, BJung. Don __________________ NRA Life Member NRA Certified Metallic Cartridge Reloading Instructor

January 16, 2021, 11:49 PM	#5
5whiskey Senior Member Join Date: October 23, 2005 Location: US Posts: 3,652	You may be flaring the case, but I don’t think you’re flaring enough. Loading cast requires a healthy case mouth flare. You should basically be able to get a flat base bullet started straight by hand. If you can’t, you will get shaving of the projectile on at least one side. __________________ Support the NRA-ILA Auction, ends 03/09/2018 https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=593946

January 18, 2021, 03:05 PM	#16
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,061	If it is for handgun calibers, take a look at the Lyman Multi-expander. It is a powder-through die that comes with a set of M-profile tubes for all the most common pistol calibers (32, 9mm, 38/357, 10mm/40 S&W, 41, 44, & 45 calibers). __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

January 16, 2021, 11:36 PM	#4
BJung Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2019 Posts: 773	Thanks for the suggestions. To cases were flared. The next time I PC, I suppose I can single PC and double PC bullets and see if there's a difference. Maybe some paint rubs off easier than others.

January 16, 2021, 11:53 PM	#6
BJung Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2019 Posts: 773	Maybe but I think I'm ok. I don't like to excessively flare my cases. I flare them just enough where the base fits into the case and can stand on its own.

January 17, 2021, 05:20 AM	#8
DukeConnor Senior Member Join Date: May 6, 2016 Posts: 224	Problem solved. https://noebulletmolds.com/site/prod...r-plug-pistol/

January 17, 2021, 11:08 AM	#9
BJung Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2019 Posts: 773	That's doable I suppose. I'd have to buy the NOE tool and then turn it down to .451" since the case bullet is sized to .452". I will use Remington cases because the wall thickness is thinnest and as a result of resizing from the outside diameter, the inside diameter is the largest.

January 17, 2021, 01:15 PM	#10
recoil junky Member Join Date: June 20, 2014 Location: TheElkHuntingCapitol CraigCO Posts: 60	Heaven forbid we get lead in our pistol barrels. Am I just old and don't understand the craze of powder coating, still thinking my #45 Lubrisizer still does its intended job and doesn't create extra steps even when adding gas checks? RJ

January 17, 2021, 01:50 PM	#11
BJung Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2019 Posts: 773	I wouldn't worry about the PC paint in your barrel. I removed it from lead bullets by soaking it in acetone. It came off like paint remover on paint.

January 20, 2021, 07:46 PM	#17
jetinteriorguy Senior Member Join Date: April 28, 2013 Posts: 3,173	Ah, thanks UN.

February 5, 2021, 08:41 AM	#18
Grey_Lion Senior Member Join Date: April 15, 2018 Location: Baton Rouge - Louisiana Posts: 407	One thing missing from this thread - Are you putting the powder coated round through a sizing die before reloading? I find doing that is a must for lots of reasons from preventing scraping off the PC to preventing squibs. As mentioned above - definitely flare the case mouth to prevent the PC being scraped off.