Stock treatment

1stmar · March 23, 2014, 07:40 AM

I have an Springfield m1a and the stock, while stained, feels very dry. Should I be putting some sort sort of coating on it, like a urethane?

Chris_B · March 23, 2014, 08:25 AM

Nope, not urethane. Please no urethane

The classic finish for a US military type wood stock is usually Boiled Linseed Oil or "BLO". Somebody will come by and say "no, that was raw linseed oil or pure tung oil that was used" and OK yes but BLO is what we have readily available and on a practical level BLO has some advantages

The 'classic' way to apply was once a day for a week, then once a week for a month, then once a month for a year, and then once each year. I dunno about that. I've done it...didn't need to.

You can get different results, depending on what you do. I have gone overboard on some and only put one or two coats on others:

Overboard (it's not wet):

Two coats:

One coat:

1stmar · March 23, 2014, 08:31 AM

Thanks they look great. Anything I need to know before applying?

Chris_B · March 23, 2014, 08:42 AM

do it outside, and while wearing rubber gloves and clothes you don't care about! I always make a big mess. I try to let it dry in the sun, hanging on a coat hanger , etc

I just use a soft clean rag and start applying. Inside the stock channels too. I tend to put on a fairly heavy coat, and then use another rag to wipe off excess, then let it sit. Sometimes if the wood is dry enough it will suck up the oil in a few hours, sometimes it dries overnight. But I always want to wipe with another clean soft rag before any oil on the surface dries. if you let standing BLO sit and cake on, it's a chore getting it off. I like to wipe down hard with that clean soft cloth when the BLO is still tacky. Successive coats need less and less oil. A lot of times I can see the grain 'weep' oil later on, and I know I don't need to put more oil on.

There's also 'Lin-speed oil' . Sorta like linseed oil. Works good though, and very little is used. but that stuff does form a bit of a hard finish; BLO doesn't really ever dry 100% that I can see

http://www.lin-speed.com/

Dixie Gunsmithing · March 23, 2014, 09:34 AM

The best tip I can give you, on applying this finish, is to wear latex surgical gloves, and apply it by hand. Just rub a thin coat onto the wood, and allow it to dry all day under the sun.

When you're finished, just discard the gloves, and there's no trying to scrub the stuff off your hands.

1stmar · March 23, 2014, 09:43 AM

Thx guys

Clark · March 25, 2014, 11:11 AM

When I was 14 in 1965, I was a do gooder nerd, so the shop teacher had me do an inventory of all materials at the end of the year. I reached deep into a cabinet to pull out a 2 gal can of linseed oil but the lid was not on. Some of it spilled in my direction. 49 years later I a still trying to get rid of the smell. Back then my father would rub linseed oil on rifle stocks.

Now in 2014, I rub mineral oil with wet and dry sandpaper on wood rifle stocks. I will do that once or twice, wipe off excess, and then rub bee's wax over that.

This is the same process as for wooden salad bowls you can eat off.

No one would eat out of a salad bowl that smelled like linseed oil, why rub a stock like that on your face?

Are you going to put a smelly linseed oil rifle in your gun safe next to a hunting rifle? You think the deer can't smell that?

603Country · March 25, 2014, 09:59 PM

I would use BLO. First application would be thinned somewhat with Mineral Spirits (not Mineral Oil) and heated (not over an open flame). The heated and thinned BLO will penetrate deeper.

Prior to that I'd sand it to at least 400 grit, raise the grain at least twice, then apply the thinned BLO and after that apply the regular BLO. Wipe off the excess after you have given it time to penetrate. Dried BLO that isn't soaked into the wood is not what you want. After you've applied it several times, then I suggest that you do a little hand rubbing. Put a small amount in your palm, rub your hands together and then rub it into the wood. Do that daily for a few weeks. Don't worry about having to use gloves.

March 23, 2014, 07:40 AM	#1
1stmar Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2012 Location: Connecticut Posts: 2,378	Stock treatment I have an Springfield m1a and the stock, while stained, feels very dry. Should I be putting some sort sort of coating on it, like a urethane?

March 25, 2014, 11:11 AM	#7
Clark Senior Member Join Date: December 4, 1999 Location: WA, the ever blue state Posts: 4,678	When I was 14 in 1965, I was a do gooder nerd, so the shop teacher had me do an inventory of all materials at the end of the year. I reached deep into a cabinet to pull out a 2 gal can of linseed oil but the lid was not on. Some of it spilled in my direction. 49 years later I a still trying to get rid of the smell. Back then my father would rub linseed oil on rifle stocks. Now in 2014, I rub mineral oil with wet and dry sandpaper on wood rifle stocks. I will do that once or twice, wipe off excess, and then rub bee's wax over that. This is the same process as for wooden salad bowls you can eat off. No one would eat out of a salad bowl that smelled like linseed oil, why rub a stock like that on your face? Are you going to put a smelly linseed oil rifle in your gun safe next to a hunting rifle? You think the deer can't smell that? __________________ The word 'forum" does not mean "not criticizing books." "Ad hominem fallacy" is not the same as point by point criticism of books. If you bought the book, and believe it all, it may FEEL like an ad hominem attack, but you might strive to accept other points of view may exist. Are we a nation of competing ideas, or a nation of forced conformity of thought?

March 23, 2014, 08:25 AM	#2
Chris_B Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2007 Posts: 3,101	Nope, not urethane. Please no urethane The classic finish for a US military type wood stock is usually Boiled Linseed Oil or "BLO". Somebody will come by and say "no, that was raw linseed oil or pure tung oil that was used" and OK yes but BLO is what we have readily available and on a practical level BLO has some advantages The 'classic' way to apply was once a day for a week, then once a week for a month, then once a month for a year, and then once each year. I dunno about that. I've done it...didn't need to. You can get different results, depending on what you do. I have gone overboard on some and only put one or two coats on others: Overboard (it's not wet): Two coats: One coat:

March 23, 2014, 08:31 AM	#3
1stmar Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2012 Location: Connecticut Posts: 2,378	Thanks they look great. Anything I need to know before applying?

March 23, 2014, 08:42 AM	#4
Chris_B Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2007 Posts: 3,101	do it outside, and while wearing rubber gloves and clothes you don't care about! I always make a big mess. I try to let it dry in the sun, hanging on a coat hanger , etc I just use a soft clean rag and start applying. Inside the stock channels too. I tend to put on a fairly heavy coat, and then use another rag to wipe off excess, then let it sit. Sometimes if the wood is dry enough it will suck up the oil in a few hours, sometimes it dries overnight. But I always want to wipe with another clean soft rag before any oil on the surface dries. if you let standing BLO sit and cake on, it's a chore getting it off. I like to wipe down hard with that clean soft cloth when the BLO is still tacky. Successive coats need less and less oil. A lot of times I can see the grain 'weep' oil later on, and I know I don't need to put more oil on. There's also 'Lin-speed oil' . Sorta like linseed oil. Works good though, and very little is used. but that stuff does form a bit of a hard finish; BLO doesn't really ever dry 100% that I can see http://www.lin-speed.com/

March 23, 2014, 09:34 AM	#5
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	The best tip I can give you, on applying this finish, is to wear latex surgical gloves, and apply it by hand. Just rub a thin coat onto the wood, and allow it to dry all day under the sun. When you're finished, just discard the gloves, and there's no trying to scrub the stuff off your hands.

March 23, 2014, 09:43 AM	#6
1stmar Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2012 Location: Connecticut Posts: 2,378	Thx guys

March 25, 2014, 09:59 PM	#8
603Country Senior Member Join Date: January 6, 2011 Location: Thornton, Texas Posts: 3,998	I would use BLO. First application would be thinned somewhat with Mineral Spirits (not Mineral Oil) and heated (not over an open flame). The heated and thinned BLO will penetrate deeper. Prior to that I'd sand it to at least 400 grit, raise the grain at least twice, then apply the thinned BLO and after that apply the regular BLO. Wipe off the excess after you have given it time to penetrate. Dried BLO that isn't soaked into the wood is not what you want. After you've applied it several times, then I suggest that you do a little hand rubbing. Put a small amount in your palm, rub your hands together and then rub it into the wood. Do that daily for a few weeks. Don't worry about having to use gloves.