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Old November 5, 2017, 02:32 PM   #1
SAA GunSlinger
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3rd model dragoon leaf sights???

Hello all. I recently purchased a 3rd model military dragoon from Dixie gun works. Hasent arrived yet but curiosity got the best of me. Will I have the leaf sights or not? I researched the 3rd model dragoons that had the option of a detachable butt stock and I saw that some military models had the rear leaf sight and others did not. Which ones had leaf sights and which ones didn't? Are the military models with the detachable butt stock suppose to have the leaf sight or not? I seen some that do and don't. This is the one I ordered
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product...oducts_id=1036
I certainly hope it does not have the leaf sights on it because I find them very ugly but is having the military model without the leaf sights historically correct?
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Old November 5, 2017, 03:02 PM   #2
45 Dragoon
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I think Armi San Marco is the only one that had the sights on them.

Mike
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Old November 5, 2017, 07:25 PM   #3
SAA GunSlinger
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Ok Thanks that covers that. I guess now I'm just trying to figure out if all 3rd model military dragoons cut for a stock had leaf sights on them or not. Would it be historically accurate to have a 3rd model dragoon cut for a stock with out leaf sights?
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Old November 5, 2017, 07:28 PM   #4
Hawg
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This is what you will get. It will have a short arbor that will need to be corrected before you shoot a lot of heavy loads in it.

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Old November 5, 2017, 07:45 PM   #5
Fingers McGee
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According to "A History of the Colt Revolver" the recoil shield cut for the shoulder stock and three leaf rear sight was standard on 3rd Models made after 1858. Dragoons up to that point were not cut for the stock. "Colt - An American Legend" shows 3rd models made from 1851 through 1860
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Old November 6, 2017, 10:28 PM   #6
SAA GunSlinger
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Can someone explain what an arbor is? Why do I have to adjust it and how?
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Old November 7, 2017, 09:59 AM   #7
45 Dragoon
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It's the "cylinder pin" that also connects the frame assy to the barrel assy. The wedge is what holds the two assys together, under tension. It's the length of this "arbor" that determines the amount of space the cylinder has to occupy. The way I fix this problem is with metal shims anchored in the barrel assy with JB Weld (with added metal powder from my belt sander). The added metal will insure the epoxy won't compress.
I don't have the luxury of time to spend on an exact fitting shim or spacer (work load) so I "over shim" it within .003"- .005". Then I dress the end of the arbor down and zero in on my .0025" - .003" tollerance. This method will open the wedge slot some which means a new wedge may be needed. You can make one, have one welded up, or do what I do.

I install a 1/4" set screw in the end of the arbor that extends into the wedge slot (grind the set screw smooth on the end). This will give you an adjustable bearing for the wedge to butt against. This means your wedge will stay your wedge for a loooong time. This also allows you to customize the depth of the wedge for holster clearance (depending on a strong side/weak side placement).

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