June 2, 2020, 12:27 AM | #1 |
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WD40 warning
Here is a warning about WD-40 for future reference.
Year ago I was reloading and ran out of lube. I thought, why not try WD-40!. Well it worked and I was only loading a few test loads. At the range, I was shooting those loads and had a hang fire. "hmm, I better count before ejecting the round" and lowered my sights. Within 3-5 seconds, the round went off. I was surprised and thankful I didn't eject that round. I never had a squib before or after that incident. Maybe the WD-40 got in the case and contaminated the primer. To be safe, I steer away from using it as a lube. |
June 2, 2020, 01:01 AM | #2 |
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WD-40 is NOT a lubricant!
The "WD" in WD-40 stands for "Water Displacer." It is a product that was created and intended to displace water. The base is not oil, it's kerosene -- with a bit of paraffin mixed into it. WD-40, IMHO, has no reason to be anywhere near a firearm (unless you dropped it in the ocean and want to displace the water before you clean and lubricate it).
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June 2, 2020, 06:46 AM | #3 |
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I don't think WD-40 used as case lube would cause a hang fire, but that said, it shouldn't be given the opportunity, either.
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June 2, 2020, 08:20 AM | #4 |
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WD-40
It's advertised as a lubricant at the time and was handy..
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June 2, 2020, 08:48 AM | #5 | |
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Quote:
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June 2, 2020, 10:16 AM | #6 |
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WD-40 was created to be a water displacing product to be used by the military. It wasn't intended to be a lubricant for forming forming purposes. I read a lot of threads where someone or another is using some odd "lubricants" for sizing, etc that were never intended for the purpose. I'm not sure your primer failure was the result of WD-40, but there is some inclination in this post that the correct lubricant should always be used for the job. I'm not sure that this specific warning is all that useful. It's possible that your hang fire was the result of the firing pin moving after the fact from contamination in the bolt or bolt face. It doesn't sound like you know the cause of the hang fire?
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June 2, 2020, 10:50 AM | #7 | |
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Can always do better
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Be Safe !!!
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June 2, 2020, 03:31 PM | #8 |
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On the can of WD40 it states for use as a firearm lube, but if you use it, and let it sit for any length of time, it will turn into a brown goo, that is hard to remove.... ask me how I know....
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June 2, 2020, 03:56 PM | #9 |
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I thought you could us WD40 specifically TO KILL primers/rounds if need be. ?
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June 2, 2020, 04:19 PM | #10 |
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You "kill" primers by hitting them with a hammer - gun or claw - your choice.....
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June 2, 2020, 04:22 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
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June 2, 2020, 10:03 PM | #12 |
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I was told several years ago if I wanted to deactivate a primer soak it in WD-40. So that’s what I do . I have a small jar/can filled with WD-40 and whenever I have a live primer I need to Discard I drop it in the WD-40. The one thing I’ve never done was pulled a primer back out of there sometime later and try to discharge it .
You may also wanna consider did it contaminated the powder because if there was enough to soak and penetrate the primer that to me would indicate there was enough to contaminate the powder itself .
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June 3, 2020, 10:07 AM | #13 | |
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June 3, 2020, 10:45 AM | #14 |
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Just good to have a reminder of the 5 second rule. I think it's too easy to get into a sloppy habit of immediately ejecting say a FTF or FTE. This could translate into a temptation to immediately eject a squib. Thanks for the reminder.
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June 3, 2020, 10:56 AM | #15 | |
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More than one way to skin this cat
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I don't reload but in some of the classes that I teach, I have to deactivate primers and caps. Again, I use mineral spirits. ….. Be Safe !!!
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June 3, 2020, 11:09 AM | #16 |
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That depends on the primer. Some are sealed so well that in one test they went off after two weeks under some solvents. Others are killed pronto. You have to know your particular primer's behavior in this regard. Alas, only one way to find out.
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June 3, 2020, 11:47 AM | #17 |
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WD not for guns
WOW!
I thought most shooters were aware of the no-no use of WD-40. I once saw an experienced shotgun shooter dismantle his semi-auto and spray it down with WD. I tried to tell him it's not oil but he insisted I was wrong. After about 25 round the gun jammed and stayed jammed.
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June 3, 2020, 02:10 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
(I can agree it is not the best lubricant, and I haven’t used it on a firearm for many decades, but it will do in a pinch if nothing else is available. As case sizing lube.....I tried it once on a .270 WCF case 45 years ago and had to take the die to a machinist....) https://www.wd40.com/myths-legends-fun-facts/ .
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June 3, 2020, 06:34 PM | #19 |
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I've pointed people to the WD-40 website before. The product is, as described there, a water-displacing lubricant and corrosion inhibitor, but it is a relatively light-duty lubricant without a lot of film strength. Guns challenge lubes to stay in place without burning off or being displaced by fast or high-pressure sliding, and a fair amount of effort has gone into formulating lubes that will stand up in race guns or in combat. Nothing I am aware of yet has proven perfect for the chore, and certainly general-purpose lubes have not. Some armorers like the Mobil 1 products, as engine oils also have to stand up to high temperatures and forceful sliding and to keep carbon suspended. I like Sprinco's Machine Gunner's Lube. Some like Wilson Combat's Ultima-lube II. All these products have more viscosity and film strength than WD-40, though.
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June 3, 2020, 07:14 PM | #20 |
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WD 40 is pretty good storage oil.
My favorite gun oil costs me sbout $3.50 per quart, Napa 0w20 Full synthetic. |
June 3, 2020, 08:35 PM | #21 |
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Standard WD-40 sucks as a lube in any application in comparison then gun lubes do . Remember using it on your bike chain ? ( for me thats the 70’s ) Once you learned how bad it was , collects dirt and drys out/off in no time you used something else . It was back then I learned it was not a good lube but then again that depends on what your definition of good is .
After reading that lube test several years ago I bought a few cans of the top two rated products as well as corrosionX and weapon shield . I also have some Slip 2000 EWL 30 which is there thicker lube . Oh and I have maybe 10 other lubes , oils or greases . They all work better then standard WD-40 except when needing water displacement .
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June 3, 2020, 09:01 PM | #22 |
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One person on youtube is recommending WD-40 to lube bullets before resizing powder coated bullets. From my experience I want to avoid this avoid. Besides Hornady resizing lube, what would you recommend I spray the powder coated bullets with so the sizer will swage than cut the bullet?
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June 3, 2020, 09:17 PM | #23 |
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Swaging lube ????
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June 3, 2020, 09:24 PM | #24 |
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I’ve never tried dropping primers in WD-40. But if you suck up a primer in your vacuum and it ignites not only will it scare the hell out of you, you’re gonna have some cleanup to do. And the cat will give you the stink-eye for a couple of days, so be ready for that.
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June 3, 2020, 10:29 PM | #25 |
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OK guys-
I have used WD 40 for 50 years- as a steam/refrigeration engineer, jeweler, engraver, gunsmith, and musician. It does not gum up. I have a small bottle in my vault that has been there for 8+ years. The carrier has evaporated, and what is left is light mineral oil. It does not contain kerosene. WD 40 excels at water displacement, and it leaves a light oil in inaccessible places. I even use it on my bass strings! If it "gummed," it would certainly show up there. WD 40 will loosen rust-making it easier to remove-but will not harm bluing. While it's not a heavy-duty lubricant, WD 40 will do an excellent job of preventing rust on properly stored guns. I can give you dozens more uses. I wouldn't use it as a reloading lube, though. |
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