Dry fire damage? - Page 2

ChasHam · February 12, 2021, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erno86

If the hammer has the same kind of lousy steel as my Ruger Old Army...I would suggest not dry firing the pistol at all (unless you use percussion caps) --- If you do...wear eye protection --- Since I've broken two of my Old Army hammers while dry firing them, (with the thumb cocking piece of the hammer cracks and flies off directly at the shooter with speed).

That's why I think Ruger gave up on manufacturing the Ruger Old Army, even though the instruction book said it was okay to dry fire the pistol.

I dunno, if that was the case, I'm thinkin' Ole Bill was a smart enough businessman that he woulda just told the boys in the plant to use some better steel. That way, the company could keep on making and selling the gun ;-)

Deltadart · February 12, 2021, 11:41 AM

If the steel is too soft in the Black Powder Blackhawk hammer, it would not be that big of trick for a gunsmith to heat treat it to increase hardness to the desired level.

bladesmith 1 · February 17, 2021, 11:01 AM

1858 Remingtons work better with #10 caps. Remington caps to be exact. In the 70s I shot pistol in the national matches at Friendship and just about all anyone used were #11 caps. We had to squeeze them egg shaped so they'd stay on better. Now, most guys have learned # 10 caps stay on better. There are pistols where the #11 cap works better, but far fewer of them. Any ways, in all my years of shooting 1858s, I've never seen hammers look like those in this thread - learn something new every day. When I want to dry fire one I just take the nipples out or remove the cylinder. I've never hurt a hammer by letting the frame stop it. If you feel a new hammer is necessary, EMF carries parts for the Pietta revolvers. Not sure about Ubertis, but a quick internet search should solve any problems.

Centurion · February 17, 2021, 01:29 PM

I use to file my hammers so they cannot touch the nipples but just the caps. After that I use to harden it by the old heat and oil method. As simple as it sounds.

ChasHam · February 18, 2021, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Centurion

I use to file my hammers so they cannot touch the nipples but just the caps. After that I use to harden it by the old heat and oil method. As simple as it sounds.

That makes for a pretty close tolerance which doesn't allow for much variation in the cap's metal thickness among different brands-- or how far down onto the nipple they fit due either to the amount of primer fill or how far/tight you push the cap down onto the nipple.

What's your experience been with any misfires?

Centurion · February 18, 2021, 12:54 PM

Never a misfire neither with any brand of primers nor my homemade ones. The tolerance is almost nothing, just enough to avoid the hammering of the nipples.

SIGSHR · February 18, 2021, 07:56 PM

A gun guru and Colt aficionado showed me his solution to firing Colt center fire revolvers with a frame mounted firing pin. Cut a piece of rubber-an old bicycle inner tube-fold it over, perhaps with a little glue. Cushions the impact of the hammer nicely. Seems to me it work nicely on nipples.

February 12, 2021, 11:41 AM	#27
Deltadart Senior Member Join Date: April 26, 2015 Location: Washington State Posts: 286	If the steel is too soft in the Black Powder Blackhawk hammer, it would not be that big of trick for a gunsmith to heat treat it to increase hardness to the desired level.

February 17, 2021, 11:01 AM	#28
bladesmith 1 Senior Member Join Date: July 14, 2018 Posts: 240	1858 Remingtons work better with #10 caps. Remington caps to be exact. In the 70s I shot pistol in the national matches at Friendship and just about all anyone used were #11 caps. We had to squeeze them egg shaped so they'd stay on better. Now, most guys have learned # 10 caps stay on better. There are pistols where the #11 cap works better, but far fewer of them. Any ways, in all my years of shooting 1858s, I've never seen hammers look like those in this thread - learn something new every day. When I want to dry fire one I just take the nipples out or remove the cylinder. I've never hurt a hammer by letting the frame stop it. If you feel a new hammer is necessary, EMF carries parts for the Pietta revolvers. Not sure about Ubertis, but a quick internet search should solve any problems.

February 17, 2021, 01:29 PM	#29
Centurion Senior Member Join Date: May 9, 2016 Posts: 270	I use to file my hammers so they cannot touch the nipples but just the caps. After that I use to harden it by the old heat and oil method. As simple as it sounds.

February 18, 2021, 12:54 PM	#31
Centurion Senior Member Join Date: May 9, 2016 Posts: 270	Never a misfire neither with any brand of primers nor my homemade ones. The tolerance is almost nothing, just enough to avoid the hammering of the nipples.

February 18, 2021, 07:56 PM	#32
SIGSHR Senior Member Join Date: September 13, 2005 Posts: 4,700	A gun guru and Colt aficionado showed me his solution to firing Colt center fire revolvers with a frame mounted firing pin. Cut a piece of rubber-an old bicycle inner tube-fold it over, perhaps with a little glue. Cushions the impact of the hammer nicely. Seems to me it work nicely on nipples.