Bore Cleaning Question

Jim567 · August 29, 2014, 02:28 PM

Always after cleaning I run an oily patch down the bore.On an AK and AR -
With chrome barrels, is this nesesary?
Would just another patch with Hoppes or another bore oil/cleaner be better?

precision_shooter · August 29, 2014, 02:34 PM

May not be necessary, but definitely doesn't hurt anything.

Slamfire · August 29, 2014, 04:24 PM

Chrome barrels can rust and rust pit. I have a Japanese Arisaka with some deep pitting through the chrome. Come to think of it, lots of those Blue Sky Garands, the ones that came from Korea in the 80's, had nicely pitted barrels. The Koreans had it down to an art form.

You leave enough powder fouling in a barrel, let air, with its humidity soak into the stuff, you will create a rust spot on chrome. It is my opinion, clean the fouling off.

I would not use a copper solvent on a chromed barrel. Hoppes is a copper solvent, so is Sweets, Butch's, anything that removes copper fouling. Typical chrome plating started with a layer of copper, over that nickel, then chrome. Let a copper solvent stay on the surface long enough, I don't see why it won't dissolve the copper on the bottom. I bought lots of GI bore cleaner, still cans on Fleabay, that will dissolve powder but not copper. Works great. Ed's Red http://handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9 is a great powder fouling remover.

precision_shooter · August 29, 2014, 05:43 PM

Hoppes #7 is a copper solvent, Hoppes #9 is a powder solvent.

Jim567 · August 29, 2014, 11:00 PM

Whoa!! I need to note that!!

Jim567 · August 29, 2014, 11:12 PM

Just checked. All my Hoppes is # 9
Says for metal and lead fowling on the label.
Says nothing about powder fowling though.
I have some Hopes Elite solvent for "copper welding" removal.
Have never used it.

Jim567 · August 29, 2014, 11:13 PM

The number 9 says not to soak a nickel firearm in it ---

Metal god · August 30, 2014, 12:49 AM

After cleaning and when I know it's not likely I'll be shooting the firearm for a while . I run one last wet patch and one last dry patch . The dry patch is to remove the extra oil thats going to run into the action do to how the rifles sit muzzle up in the safe .

I used to be a clean freak but now I'll go 2 or 3 hundred rounds before a GOOD cleaning but will run a CLP soak bore snake through the bore every 100rds or so .

I was just at the range today working on a new load for a 308 That's not been cleaned in any way for at least 200rds . I had one of my best and most consistent days shooting that dirty thing . I'm now at odds with my self . I told myself I'd clean the rifle after todays shoot . Now that I shot so well I'm not so sure

precision_shooter · August 30, 2014, 04:34 AM

Maybe I have an old formula? Says Powder Solvent....
[IMG]

[/IMG]
Even the pic on Hoppes site does not say it's a metal fouling remover...

And I'm not sure where I got Hoppes #7 from. Maybe I am remembering something else with 7 and got confused. Hoppes has copper solvents, but they are still labeled as #9 COPPER solvent.

mehavey · August 30, 2014, 05:41 AM

Hoppes (of whatever #) is not a metal preservative.
The OP would be correct to leave the bore coated with a final CLP like BreakFree.

precision_shooter · August 30, 2014, 05:45 AM

That I agree with, leave an oily film like CLP in the bore.

Jim567 · August 30, 2014, 07:38 AM

I have two #9 like this

Don't know how old they are.
Will have to check out the website
Just says for lead and metal fowling, weird lol!!!
Decided to stay with the oily patch last pass.

August 29, 2014, 02:28 PM	#1
Jim567 Senior Member Join Date: January 4, 2014 Location: NE FL Posts: 656	Bore Cleaning Question Always after cleaning I run an oily patch down the bore.On an AK and AR - With chrome barrels, is this nesesary? Would just another patch with Hoppes or another bore oil/cleaner be better? Last edited by Jim567; August 29, 2014 at 02:33 PM.

August 29, 2014, 02:34 PM	#2
precision_shooter Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: DFW, Texas Posts: 2,475	May not be necessary, but definitely doesn't hurt anything. __________________ "Laws that forbid the carrying of arms...disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes...Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man." - Thomas Jefferson, 1776

August 29, 2014, 04:24 PM	#3
Slamfire Senior Member Join Date: May 27, 2007 Posts: 5,261	Chrome barrels can rust and rust pit. I have a Japanese Arisaka with some deep pitting through the chrome. Come to think of it, lots of those Blue Sky Garands, the ones that came from Korea in the 80's, had nicely pitted barrels. The Koreans had it down to an art form. You leave enough powder fouling in a barrel, let air, with its humidity soak into the stuff, you will create a rust spot on chrome. It is my opinion, clean the fouling off. I would not use a copper solvent on a chromed barrel. Hoppes is a copper solvent, so is Sweets, Butch's, anything that removes copper fouling. Typical chrome plating started with a layer of copper, over that nickel, then chrome. Let a copper solvent stay on the surface long enough, I don't see why it won't dissolve the copper on the bottom. I bought lots of GI bore cleaner, still cans on Fleabay, that will dissolve powder but not copper. Works great. Ed's Red http://handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9 is a great powder fouling remover. __________________ If I'm not shooting, I'm reloading.

August 29, 2014, 05:43 PM	#4
precision_shooter Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: DFW, Texas Posts: 2,475	Hoppes #7 is a copper solvent, Hoppes #9 is a powder solvent. __________________ "Laws that forbid the carrying of arms...disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes...Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man." - Thomas Jefferson, 1776

August 30, 2014, 12:49 AM	#8
Metal god Senior Member Join Date: April 10, 2012 Location: San Diego CA Posts: 6,875	After cleaning and when I know it's not likely I'll be shooting the firearm for a while . I run one last wet patch and one last dry patch . The dry patch is to remove the extra oil thats going to run into the action do to how the rifles sit muzzle up in the safe . I used to be a clean freak but now I'll go 2 or 3 hundred rounds before a GOOD cleaning but will run a CLP soak bore snake through the bore every 100rds or so . I was just at the range today working on a new load for a 308 That's not been cleaned in any way for at least 200rds . I had one of my best and most consistent days shooting that dirty thing . I'm now at odds with my self . I told myself I'd clean the rifle after todays shoot . Now that I shot so well I'm not so sure __________________ If Jesus had a gun , he'd probably still be alive ! I almost always write my posts regardless of content in a jovial manor and intent . If that's not how you took it , please try again .

August 29, 2014, 11:00 PM	#5
Jim567 Senior Member Join Date: January 4, 2014 Location: NE FL Posts: 656	Whoa!! I need to note that!!

August 29, 2014, 11:12 PM	#6
Jim567 Senior Member Join Date: January 4, 2014 Location: NE FL Posts: 656	Just checked. All my Hoppes is # 9 Says for metal and lead fowling on the label. Says nothing about powder fowling though. I have some Hopes Elite solvent for "copper welding" removal. Have never used it.

August 29, 2014, 11:13 PM	#7
Jim567 Senior Member Join Date: January 4, 2014 Location: NE FL Posts: 656	The number 9 says not to soak a nickel firearm in it ---

August 30, 2014, 04:34 AM	#9
precision_shooter Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: DFW, Texas Posts: 2,475	Maybe I have an old formula? Says Powder Solvent.... [IMG][/IMG] Even the pic on Hoppes site does not say it's a metal fouling remover... And I'm not sure where I got Hoppes #7 from. Maybe I am remembering something else with 7 and got confused. Hoppes has copper solvents, but they are still labeled as #9 COPPER solvent. __________________ "Laws that forbid the carrying of arms...disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes...Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man." - Thomas Jefferson, 1776 Last edited by precision_shooter; August 30, 2014 at 04:54 AM.

August 30, 2014, 05:41 AM	#10
mehavey Senior Member Join Date: June 17, 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 6,886	Hoppes (of whatever #) is not a metal preservative. The OP would be correct to leave the bore coated with a final CLP like BreakFree.

August 30, 2014, 05:45 AM	#11
precision_shooter Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: DFW, Texas Posts: 2,475	That I agree with, leave an oily film like CLP in the bore. __________________ "Laws that forbid the carrying of arms...disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes...Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed man." - Thomas Jefferson, 1776

August 30, 2014, 07:38 AM	#12
Jim567 Senior Member Join Date: January 4, 2014 Location: NE FL Posts: 656	I have two #9 like this Don't know how old they are. Will have to check out the website Just says for lead and metal fowling, weird lol!!! Decided to stay with the oily patch last pass. Last edited by Jim567; August 30, 2014 at 07:50 AM.