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Old October 27, 1999, 08:57 AM   #1
DOCSpanky
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Location: Ashland City, TN
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I have noticed my guns picking up alot of dust recently, and am wondering what other products are out there to clean and lubricate them with. I have used Hoppes #9 forever and am still truely impressed with it, but I need something better that Outers gun oil for lubrication. I have been told of dry lubricants but have found none. Any suggestions?
I clean my guns frequently so please do not include any $50.00 an ounce products

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Old October 27, 1999, 10:37 AM   #2
Jim V
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Well, if you can find it DRYSLIDE works well, a bit messy when applied, molubdium disulfide (sp?) in a carrier. Shake the can well, apply sparingly, let dry, wipe off any excess and away you go.

Brownells has ACTION MAGIC II http://www.brownells.com that is not real expensive and is a two part application. I have used it on the short piston of my Colt .22/.45 conversion unit and it has worked well (so far.)

Wilson has a similar lube, sorry I don't have their url, but both Brownells and Denny's Shooters http://www.dennysshooters.com have it in stock.

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Old October 27, 1999, 09:45 PM   #3
James K
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I use G96 Gun Cleaner. It isn't a copper solvent like Hoppe's but is better at protection (and doesn't hurt nickel finishes). A good gun oil is still the best for lubrication.

Jim
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Old October 28, 1999, 12:46 AM   #4
Nakano
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Sentry Solutions Armorers Kits! Includes Smooth Kote lube/ preservative and powder lube among an assortment of other essentials.
Please check my post under 4 sale forums... cheap!

L8r,
Nakano

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Old October 28, 1999, 12:55 PM   #5
Will Beararms
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Remember, Hoppe's #9 is nothing more than perfumed Kerosene. It clearly states this on the label. I keep #9 on hand to use only for removing fouling from the barrel or to rid the firing pin area of primer residue and nothing else. Even in this application, I first try to use a good oil like CLP,Beretta Olio or the Benelli Oil. These oils will not only protect against rust, but they will also cleanse to a degree if clean burining ammo was run through the weapon you are cleaning. Since Beretta has a major role with Benelli,(Possible stock ownership and import rights per a Beretta Representative. Wonder why HK no longer imports Benelli and Benelli's new address is Accokeek,MD?)I beleive that the Oilio and Benelli Oil are one in the same. I believe that the lubricant you choose is extremely important and that oils with a flamable solvent base such as Rem oil should be used only for cleaning and not lubrication. Flamable solvents tend to eat away at the finish over a period of time and they are not good for rubber grips. It's worth spending the extra money even if you do clean frequently. In my cleaning kit I keep Beretta Olio, Rem Oil and Hoppe's #9. The Beretta is an all-purpose lubricant. The Rem Oil is used to clean the bore and firing pin area and the #9 is a last resort solution for tough fouling, primer buildup or the beginning stages of rust. If I were you, I would keep the #9 and get some CLP in the squeeze bottle for lubrication. Remember that aerosol sprays use some sort of propellant to get the lubricant out of the can and that agent may or may not be good for the gun. I avoid slide greases since I live in a region prone to dust and I can't stand the grit build-up that slide grease will cause if you store guns for a period of time. To me the advantages of Beretta Olio are: (a) it won't hurt the gun's finnish, (b) it does not attract lint and dust and (c) it acts as a cleaner also. The main disadvantage is it costs 7.00 per ounce. Pay me now or pay me later.

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Old October 28, 1999, 10:18 PM   #6
James K
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If Hoppe's is nothing but "perfumed kerosene" how does it clean fouling? Kerosene won't touch fouling, but ammonia will.

Jim
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Old October 29, 1999, 09:35 AM   #7
Will Beararms
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I like Hoppe's #9 and what's more, I like the smell of it! It would make a good aftershave fragrance. No cleaining kit is complete without it and for its intended purpose it is wonderful. "DANGER: CONTAINS KEROSENE" can be read on the side of the box. I should have been more sensitive in my description of #9. I give all the credit it desrves and more. It is however, not a lubricant and because of the flamable nature of the ingredients should not be thought of as a lubricant. Chemicals are my business. I don't know about machining tolerances or rifling twists but I do know about reformulated petroleum byproducts and converted corn starch. You can take this with a grain of salt but any time I use Hoppe's #9, I completely dry the area with a clean Q - Tip and apply a good non-flamable lubricant like CLP or Berretta Olio to the area. Any #9 that contacts wood or polymer substrates is immediately removed. Isn't it great when we can confine our discourse to what lubricants to use or which ammo to buy instead of the latest illegal gun rights infringement?

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Old November 3, 1999, 07:40 AM   #8
Joe D
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I to like the CLP product. I started using Tetra Gun L on one of my 1911s about a year ago and have been very pleased so far. It seems to adhere to the frame rails very well.After appox. 15,000 rds. thru the 1911 I cannot measure any rail wear.
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Old November 3, 1999, 08:33 PM   #9
Yodar
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I cant help with the dust in the cleaning
question, nor can I quarrel with the offerings of other posters, but I'm talking about cleanin' a dirty gun. K.I.S.S.-I use solvents lavishly to be sure there's no firing-derived filth left in my gun. I frequently have to clean autoloading pistols and rifles twice a week. The solvent I used (Hoppes automatic -silver label)
is excellent but at a dollar an ounce, it was exceeding my BEER budget. I wont HAVE that!

I encountered Ed Harris's adaptation of a Frankford Arsenal Military solvent. It's called Ed's Red - Go to rec. guns FAQ for details.

I mix a gallon of it for what a 6 ounce bottle of Hoppes automatic weapons solvent costs. I Shoot 100-200 rounds per gun per session and my barrels all have no leading from the 200-300 lbs of lead shot thru thenm a year,, and each cleans with four patches. I use wet patches to clean down the rest of the gun with ed's red.

Its magic ingedient is a detergent based cleaner compatible with aqueous and hydrocarbon based solvents. It cut filth and does the job-I've had no filth based failures or corrosion in 5 years.

recipe summary (store final mix in a Coleman Camp fuel can:
1 qt high quality deodorized kerosene
1 qt acetone
1 qt mineral spirits (odorless paint
thinner)
1 qt Dexron ATF
DO NOT GET ON STOCKS or PLASTIC will eat it up!

Yodar
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