Ruger GP-100 mods ????

[Metal god]

Good day all . I'm not in this sub section much if ever really . I've not owned a wheel gun in 20 years or so which is likely the reason . Well all that changed last week-ish when I bought a SS GP-100 with a 4.2" barrel . Although I'm more of a rifle guy I do enjoy shooting handguns . I reload and the main reason I bought the gun was because I hate picking up my 9mm and 45acp brass . Now that you have a bit of a back story lets move on to my questions .

First let me start by making clear the first time out I will only shoot factory ammo from the fully stock from factory/NIB condition . This is just to be sure "IF" anything goes wrong it won't be on me .

That now said I do like to tinker and already have plans for some modifications . Example I already have a new front sight and Wilson Combat trigger and hammer spring kit I plan to install .

I also plan to polish some of the metal on metal inner workings of the firearm . I found this video as a how to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqG5_2egsck If you know of a better video or there is something wrong in what he says please let me know .

Any other do's or don'ts are welcome . Like the spring kit comes with multiple springs for different tensions/pulls . I absolutely want the gun to ignite every primer and not have light strikes on the harder cup primers . Meaning I'm looking for the lightest trigger pull in double action while still having very firm hammer strikes . Also will changing the springs out effect the timing of the cylinder at all .

Any other help is welcome since I'm basically new to revolvers again .

Thanks Metal

P.S. FWIW it came down to the GP-100 and the 686 and the Ruger pointed better in my hand while the Smith clearly pointed upwards with my natural hold and felt like I had to really push the nose of the gun down to line up the sights .

[DPris]

I don't like messing with springs, my GPs (every single one of 'em) HAVE to ignite any primer brand I may stick in their chambers.

My preferred modifications are an action job & better sights to begin with, and from there bead-blasting and semi-Fitzing the triggerguard.
Grips may be altered or replaced, depending on model configuration.
Might dehorn the hammer spur edges, if they're overly annoying.

And I check both ends of the barrel for cones & crowns, to make sure they're cut right.
Denis

[Metal god]

And I check both ends of the barrel for cones & crowns, to make sure they're cut right.

Do you have a photo or link to what I should or shouldn't see . The crown I'll likely know is right or wrong but I have no idea what the ???forcing?? cone should look like. I'm in CA so the gun is still at the store waiting for the ten day waiting period . I've not actually seen my gun . I only handled to display gun which was a blued model and mine is being sent to the store . So This will be good for me to know before I take possession of the firearm .

Heck for that matter, anything else I should be looking for before I say I'll take the one they are offering would be helpful to know . Like I said I don't know much about revolvers .

My preferred modifications are an action job

I thought lightening the springs is part of an action job . Along with de-burring , smoothing out and polishing internal parts ? I defiantly want a little light trigger pull and maybe the de-burring and polishing will be enough . I plan to try that first and try it out before messing with the springs . Then if need be start looking at changing the springs .

[Model12Win]

Best accessory is a snaps caps and a penny for the bbl to balance it and practice the dry firing.

And ammos.

[DPris]

I don't have photos or links.

The crown is where the rifling ends at the muzzle.
On the GP, it should be noticeably dished or funneled, but only slightly, and cut in a uniform circle to a uniform depth.

The forcing cone at the opposite end is designed to guide bullets from the chambers into concentricity with the bore.
It will also be something of a funnel in shape, but much deeper than the crown.
It should be machined cleanly, without visible circular machining marks.

As for action jobs- no, an action job does not automatically include lighter springs.
In some guns, yes, but I prefer a smooth and reliable action over a light and unreliable action.

In my GPs, factory springs remain.
You make up your own mind there.
Denis

[turkeestalker]

Ruger revolvers typically smooth up nicely with use in my experience. Dry fire it a thousand times, (with or without snap caps, your call), before thinking about springs.

[amd6547]

When I bought my 3” GP, I thought I would be doing a trigger job, due to comments I read online.
Come to find that my GP has a trigger fully comparable to my well used Model 15. I haven’t done thing to it but shoot it.

[Siggy-06]

If you ever wanna add a red dot, they make a rail that mounts in the rear sight channel and follows the top strap.

[reddog81]

Hammer shims are a common item that will help if the hammer is rubbing against the frame. After dry firing it a bit you should be able to tell if the hammer has a bunch scuff marks. I had to replace the hammer strut because my original one had a bunch of casting imperfections that caused a rough double action trigger pull.

Going down a little in spring strength won't effect the timing, but you'll have to experiment to find out how low you can go. People say that a Ruger can't ever get to as nice of a trigger pull as a S&W but my GP100 has as good of or better trigger than the dozen+ S&W I own.

[MrBorland]

I recommend giving the Iowegian's Book of Knowledge for the Ruger GP100 Revolver at least a read-through:

https://edoc.site/iowegans-book-of-k...-pdf-free.html

[HighValleyRanch]

Never have taken a GP100 apart, but have totally rebuilt my Ruger Secuirty six. Are them very similar?

[reddog81]

Originally Posted by HighValleyRanch

Never have taken a GP100 apart, but have totally rebuilt my Ruger Secuirty six. Are them very similar?

The initial take down and hammer strut removal are identical/almost identical. The trigger group is similar, but the trigger return spring is a completely different setup. The first time i took apart my service six I was surprised at how similar everything was.

I was always under the impression that the transition to the GP100 was done because it's significantly cheaper to manufacture. After taking both of them apart I can't see how there could be much difference in the cost of each gun.

[Higgins825]

Get the spring kit. Best mod yu can get. I run 9# hammer and 10# trigger. No problem with s&b primers, which are a little on the hard side, polish you normal metal on metal parts and you have an awesome wheel gun...

[Don P]

A reliable spring change combination is a 12# hammer spring and a 10# trigger return spring.

[Metal god]

Does the GP-100 and the Super Redhawk take/except the same grips ? It seems the majority of GP-100 grips searches I do turns up a result that says GP-100/Super Redhawk .

[DPris]

The majority of searches showing grips that fit both should tell you something.
Denis

[Metal god]

The majority of searches showing grips that fit both should tell you something.

Indeed , but thought I'd ask before spending $100 on a grip .

[DPris]

Spend your money.
Denis

[seeker_two]

Buy ammo. Use up. Repeat......

....best modification you can do to any gun.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[JohnKSa]

Ok, I have a little more time today.

I have done action work on a number of guns that fit the GP100 pattern.

The single biggest improvement in the double-action trigger pull quality has been from smoothing out the inside of the channel that the trigger return spring occupies. The added benefit is that you have to really go crazy to overdo and cause a problem in this area. The video doesn't show that operation.

The inside of the trigger return spring channel is typically very rough and that translates to a very noticeable feeling of grittiness as the trigger return spring is compressed during the DA pull and slides against the rough sides of the channel.

Another simple way to improve things is by putting shims between the hammer and the frame. This limits hammer play and also limits the contact that the hammer has with the frame. Because this is fully reversible and can't really cause any damage, it's very safe.

Shimming the trigger would likely also help, but I've not tried it.

Polishing the end of the hammer strut where it interfaces with the hammer is another quick and easy way to improve the double-action trigger pull. Another simple way to make an improvement that is hard to mess up.

Polishing the hammer strut inside the spring is hard to screw up and might make a noticeable improvement.

Polishing the top of the curved surface at the very top of the trigger part can help the DA pull. Don't get carried away here.

Some comments about the video:

RE: The comment that Ruger Revolvers grenade while the S&W revolver break into a few large pieces. I've seen a variety of pics of both types of revolvers after having been blown up and I haven't noticed any significant differences.

Disappointing that the videographer doesn't know the difference between an ounce and a tenth of a pound--but it could just be he was concentrating on the video and consistently misspoke.

The GP100, the Ruger Super Redhawk and the SP100 revolvers all have very similar lockwork. The Ruger Redhawk is a significantly different design.

It is certainly possible to lighten the DA pull on this design with careful polishing/smoothing. My SP101 (.22LR) initially had a DA pull over 15lbs but it is now down under 13lbs. More importantly it is a smooth 13lbs which makes it seem a little lighter than it really is.

The aluminum grip indexing pin will come out either way--at least every one I've ever worked on is not specific as to which direction it will come out. It's worth pointing out that in the older GP100s, the rubber grips were two piece grips and the indexing pin did not come out at all.

What he's calling the "sear face" is the front of the hammer dog. I have no idea why he's polishing it, the only part of the hammer dog that touches the trigger during the trigger pull is the very lower end which rides on the upper curved surface at the very top of the trigger part. It won't hurt anything to polish the front of the hammer dog, I suppose. It just makes me wonder if he really understands how the mechanism works.

I wouldn't recommend using a file for polishing/smoothing work.

If you're going to use a liquid/paste polish, thoroughly clean your parts afterwards so you don't leave abrasive residue in the gun. When you polish with a dremel or other rotary tool, you might want to do it in such a way that any of the polish that gets slung off the wheel doesn't end up anywhere you can't easily clean off when you're done. In other words, don't do it directly above the gun you're working on or above the other parts you've taken out of the gun and laid out on the bench.

Be very, very careful about any sort of stoning on the pawl/hand.

[arquebus357]

I'm not too familiar with the GP100 but I have done work on the Security Six series guns. The biggest improvement for smoothing trigger feel has been installing hammer shims.

My favorite has .004" shims on each side. Yikes ! None on my S&W's have anything like this side-to-side hammer play.

[Metal god]

Thanks John that was very informative .

The single biggest improvement in the double-action trigger pull quality has been from smoothing out the inside of the channel that the trigger return spring occupies.

I don't think I would have thought of that , maybe but likely not .

If you're going to use a liquid/paste polish, thoroughly clean your parts afterwards so you don't leave abrasive residue in the gun.

That's good advice and I do plan to use some . Off the top of my head I believe I have 220 grit , 400 or 600 grit and a ultra fine polishing wax . I'd think the 220 would be way to abrasive . What product and or grit would you recommend . If I don't have it I buy some . Although I do have some stones I have no plans to use them .

Polishing the hammer strut inside the spring is hard to screw up and might make a noticeable improvement.

I do plan on polishing these areas and in my head I was thinking of using the proper sized bore mop to polish the inside of the Hammer spring . Is there something better for that application ?

Another simple way to improve things is by putting shims between the hammer and the frame.

I'll definitely look into that . Are these shims sold ready to install or do I need to make them from feeler gauges ?

On a side note and I'm not going to do this and it goes to cleaning the polish off of all parts before reassembly . I've heard of guys actually using generous amounts of polishing compounds as lube in the actions of lever guns at first to smooth them out . Fill the action up with polish , close it up and work the lever a hundred times or so then clean it all out and lube properly . The theory is that the polish grinds on all the natural metal on metal parts where ever it needs it most and if the metals don't touch then it does nothing in those areas . Like I said I'm NOT doing that but it does sound interesting . Would that work in a lever gun ?

While I'm here any lube recommendations . I have a bunch from CLP to high heat bearing grease and many things in between . I was thinking on using the lube that came with my Geissele triggers . Not the thinker grease like stuff but the more liquid like stuff . It's thicker then CLP but thinner then Slip 2000 EWL-30 Or Weapon Shield . Or should I use different lubes for different areas of the firearm ? Meaning something pretty thin in the trigger area and something a little thicker on the hammer spring and strut ???

[JohnKSa]

For metal polishing I typically use sandpaper and polish by hand because I can control things very carefully. I rarely go any more coarse than 400grit. Even that would be reserved for areas that really need significant smoothing.

For inside the trigger return channel where things are really rough, you could roll up a piece of sandpaper that is a little more coarse than 400 to start with and then go up from there.

I've not found it productive to go finer than 1000 but then I don't typically use liquid/paste polish for this kind of operation and it may work a little differently.

For most of my polishing work, I use light pressure and 800-1000 grit paper.

...polish the inside of the Hammer spring...

I'm not big on polishing springs. For one thing they're usually pretty smooth to start with, for another, I'm wary of altering the surface finish of springs because I'm not confident I understand all the ins and outs of how that can affect things.

https://ac.els-cdn.com/S187770581401...80cd07618ea581

Are these shims sold ready to install or do I need to make them from feeler gauges ?

I have a big collection of washers and other parts that I've collected over the years. I usually pick through it until I find something the right size and close to the right thickness. Making shims from feeler gauge material is pretty smart. I've never thought of that, or done that, but I see no reason it wouldn't work. If you don't want to go to the trouble, you can probably find something at the hardware store that will work. If you can't find something thin enough, you can always sand it down to the proper thickness.

I will confess that I don't like shims because they make the gun harder to reassemble. But sometimes they can make a big improvement.

Would that work in a lever gun ?

I think it will work in any gun--just make sure that the abrasive is non-embedding and that you can get it cleaned out of all the possible nooks and crannies it can find its way into after you've finished. I've never used that approach because I like to know exactly what I'm polishing and exactly how much I'm polishing it.

While I'm here any lube recommendations.

I like (very light) grease for revolver innards since it stays in place a little better and because revolver internals tend to be protected better than autopistol lockwork. You could always use something like Hornady One Shot that leaves a dry residue in place after the propellant/cleaner evaporates. It's supposed to be a very good lube and is very easy to use/apply.

I don't know what Geissele provides with their triggers, but as long as it's not too thick, it's probably not a bad choice.

Of course, many revolvers are lubricated with nothing other than oil and work just fine.

[Hammerhead]

My GP-100 didn't have the hardest hammer fall as it was. I wouldn't lighten the mainspring at all. I went through a box of Tula primers and the GP was my only 357 that had trouble igniting them.
I think sometimes the transfer bar gets out of alignment and some of the hammer fall is wasted there.
Trigger pull on mine was fine in both modes. Not comparable to a vintage S&W or a Python, but better than any other Ruger I've owned. I did my best ever double action shooting with the GP.
Mine came with Hogue rubber finger groove grips, they were OK, but I found a nice set of used original rubber panel grips and bingo, that's the grip for me. That's when my double action shooting really improved.
The stock sights are pretty good, I had hoped to upgrade to some nice Bowen sights, but never got around to it.
http://parts.bowenclassicarms.com/in...1b4e84817a0a00
Great guns, soft shooting and very good practical accuracy, plus they digest just about any bullet without complaint.
Congrats.

[JohnKSa]

I wouldn't lighten the mainspring at all.

I don't recall ever having any light primer strikes/misfires with any of the revolvers I have of this design--I wonder if maybe yours had a spring that was on the weak side from the factory.

That said, I'm not really a big fan of putting lighter mainsprings in guns. At the least, when something like that is done, the shooter should do a good deal of testing to make sure that reliability is not compromised in either single OR double action.