First flintlock

Nodak1858 · February 23, 2020, 02:24 PM

I've been shooting C&B revolvers and inline and percussion rifles for years so I'm familiar with shooting black powder. But finally got my first flintlock. I won a Lyman Deerstalker 54 cal on Gunbroker for $260. It looks new, bore is great, all the screw heads look new, and no rust. I pretty sure I have enough reading so far that I can actually get it to shoot a ball. But have a few questions for everyone. What, if any, spare parts besides flints should a guy have? I have read some have a spare frizzen, which are cheap, but others haven't needed anything besides new flints. Also are there any good tweaks or tips for a newbie. Will be shooting 3F as the main charge and 4F for priming, real black powder Swiss from Grafs. As far as flints, sounds like English flints are usually what people recommend. Are saw cut or hand knapped the way to go, is there any real functional difference?
Hopefully the weather keeps nice and I can make it out to the range in the next few weeks.

Thanks all,
Josh

Pahoo · February 23, 2020, 03:05 PM

Jumping from MML's to "Rock-Crushers" is a mighty big step and by my measure, a goodun. Going to be some time before you need a spare frizzen and always good to have as well as touch-hole liners. Might also want a priming flask/charger. for that 4FG . Be Patient with the task and yourself !!!

Enjoy and keep us updated.

Be Safe !!!

mehavey · February 23, 2020, 07:58 PM

As far as flint go... go real flint, go knapped, and go HERE:
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/141/1
(and get a dozen at a whack)

Speaking of whacks...
Get this 29-cent tool as well.

**4V50 Gary** · February 23, 2020, 09:20 PM

Mebbe one new frizzen, but if you have casenite, you can re-treat it (but anneal it afterwards). The frizzen should last you a long time.

One thing about those Italian locks, they use a coil spring in lieu of a V spring. They're different to work on.

Nodak1858 · February 23, 2020, 10:14 PM

Pahoo, have a small flask for priming coming, and will probably order a frizzen and liners, both are cheap enough to have.
Mehavey, thanks for the picture, that was the other thing I was a bit unsure of.
4V50 Gary, is a guy basically able to sand/clean up the frizzen and then just heat treat it? Is it a case of they don't really wear out, but just need to be "repaired" so to speak? I've heat treated small parts and AK recievers, would be able to give these a go I think.

Thanks all for the info, I figure I have a good month before I can make it to the outdoor range I haunt to try it out. A good bit of time to keep learning the basics.

Old Stony · February 24, 2020, 05:37 AM

A good frizzen should last a guy for a long time. Most rifles never get one replaced in their lifetime. If and when they give some problems, they can be heat treated...but it rarely needs to be done. Just getting all your possibles together to shoot it should cover your needs for a long time.

reinert · February 24, 2020, 09:38 AM

Many flintlock shooters just use the same powder from the horn as to the load; one horn for charging the rifle, and priming the pan. I do use a priming horn and grind my own primer powder with a ceramic mortar and pestle; personally I've never had the need to purchase 4fg powder, and that's just me, and tips/advice from my mentors through the many years of traditional b.p. shooting. I've primed my flinters both ways, and really can't determine any real difference in ignition, but I still use a separate priming horn. Try your 3fg for the prime before you buy that pound of 4f. You may find it all you need for powder; as is, or ground up in a ceramic mortar and pestle properly. I usually dump just a capful from the powder can to grind at a time and then add it to the priming horn. I've never had an issue making priming powder this way, and I've been shooting flinters for well over 40 years.

BTW, and as has been already mentioned, a can of kasenit is good stuff to have on hand for sleepy frizzens. Easy to use, and brings the sparks back wonderfully.

darkgael · February 24, 2020, 11:51 AM

You probably will keep a spare frizzen for a loooong time.
Get yourself a little brush for cleaning the primer pan and a pick for the flash hole.
if you use FFFg powder, you can prime with that; you won't need the FFFFg.

Hawg · February 24, 2020, 11:52 AM

Quote:

a can of kasenit is good stuff to have on hand for sleepy frizzens. Easy to use, and brings the sparks back wonderfully.

Kasenit is no longer being made. Midway USA sells Cherry Red and Brownells sells a surface hardening compound which is probably repackaged Cherry Red.

reinert · February 24, 2020, 01:21 PM

Thanks for the heads-up on the kasenit, Hawg. I've had my can on hand for many years, and haven't had to shop for any since. I can only imagine the Cherry Red and or Brownells compound works equally as well as kasenit.

Probably ten years ago now, I purchased a neat little booklet titled, "How to Heat Treat: Harden, Temper & Anneal," by Susanne Warren-Bicio, Historical Arms Gunmaker (The Gunmaker Series). I don't know if it's still available or not, but I find it a great, quick reference to and about heat treating metal. I got this booklet from Muzzleloader Builders Supply (copyright 2007).

**4V50 Gary** · February 26, 2020, 09:30 PM

Read and follow the book's instruction. No need to file on the frizzen. Remember, this is a future project that may or may not arise.

February 23, 2020, 02:24 PM	#1
Nodak1858 Senior Member Join Date: September 7, 2009 Location: N. Dakota Posts: 435	First flintlock I've been shooting C&B revolvers and inline and percussion rifles for years so I'm familiar with shooting black powder. But finally got my first flintlock. I won a Lyman Deerstalker 54 cal on Gunbroker for $260. It looks new, bore is great, all the screw heads look new, and no rust. I pretty sure I have enough reading so far that I can actually get it to shoot a ball. But have a few questions for everyone. What, if any, spare parts besides flints should a guy have? I have read some have a spare frizzen, which are cheap, but others haven't needed anything besides new flints. Also are there any good tweaks or tips for a newbie. Will be shooting 3F as the main charge and 4F for priming, real black powder Swiss from Grafs. As far as flints, sounds like English flints are usually what people recommend. Are saw cut or hand knapped the way to go, is there any real functional difference? Hopefully the weather keeps nice and I can make it out to the range in the next few weeks. Thanks all, Josh __________________ We've all heard that a million monkeys banging on a million typewriters will eventually reproduce the entire works of Shakespeare. Now, thanks to the Internet, we know this is not true.

February 23, 2020, 03:05 PM	#2
Pahoo Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2006 Location: IOWA Posts: 8,783	Be Patient with the task and yourself !!! Jumping from MML's to "Rock-Crushers" is a mighty big step and by my measure, a goodun. Going to be some time before you need a spare frizzen and always good to have as well as touch-hole liners. Might also want a priming flask/charger. for that 4FG . Be Patient with the task and yourself !!! Enjoy and keep us updated. Be Safe !!! __________________ 'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing.

February 23, 2020, 09:20 PM	#4
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,831	Mebbe one new frizzen, but if you have casenite, you can re-treat it (but anneal it afterwards). The frizzen should last you a long time. One thing about those Italian locks, they use a coil spring in lieu of a V spring. They're different to work on. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

February 23, 2020, 10:14 PM	#5
Nodak1858 Senior Member Join Date: September 7, 2009 Location: N. Dakota Posts: 435	Pahoo, have a small flask for priming coming, and will probably order a frizzen and liners, both are cheap enough to have. Mehavey, thanks for the picture, that was the other thing I was a bit unsure of. 4V50 Gary, is a guy basically able to sand/clean up the frizzen and then just heat treat it? Is it a case of they don't really wear out, but just need to be "repaired" so to speak? I've heat treated small parts and AK recievers, would be able to give these a go I think. Thanks all for the info, I figure I have a good month before I can make it to the outdoor range I haunt to try it out. A good bit of time to keep learning the basics. __________________ We've all heard that a million monkeys banging on a million typewriters will eventually reproduce the entire works of Shakespeare. Now, thanks to the Internet, we know this is not true.

February 24, 2020, 09:38 AM	#7
reinert Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2008 Posts: 646	One powder for load and priming... Many flintlock shooters just use the same powder from the horn as to the load; one horn for charging the rifle, and priming the pan. I do use a priming horn and grind my own primer powder with a ceramic mortar and pestle; personally I've never had the need to purchase 4fg powder, and that's just me, and tips/advice from my mentors through the many years of traditional b.p. shooting. I've primed my flinters both ways, and really can't determine any real difference in ignition, but I still use a separate priming horn. Try your 3fg for the prime before you buy that pound of 4f. You may find it all you need for powder; as is, or ground up in a ceramic mortar and pestle properly. I usually dump just a capful from the powder can to grind at a time and then add it to the priming horn. I've never had an issue making priming powder this way, and I've been shooting flinters for well over 40 years. BTW, and as has been already mentioned, a can of kasenit is good stuff to have on hand for sleepy frizzens. Easy to use, and brings the sparks back wonderfully.

February 23, 2020, 07:58 PM	#3
mehavey Senior Member Join Date: June 17, 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 6,883	As far as flint go... go real flint, go knapped, and go HERE: https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/141/1 (and get a dozen at a whack) Speaking of whacks... Get this 29-cent tool as well.

February 24, 2020, 05:37 AM	#6
Old Stony Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2013 Location: East Texas Posts: 1,705	A good frizzen should last a guy for a long time. Most rifles never get one replaced in their lifetime. If and when they give some problems, they can be heat treated...but it rarely needs to be done. Just getting all your possibles together to shoot it should cover your needs for a long time.

February 24, 2020, 11:51 AM	#8
darkgael Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2006 Location: Homes in Brooklyn, NY and in Pennsylvania. Posts: 5,473	You probably will keep a spare frizzen for a loooong time. Get yourself a little brush for cleaning the primer pan and a pick for the flash hole. if you use FFFg powder, you can prime with that; you won't need the FFFFg. __________________ “Auto racing, bull fighting, and mountain climbing are the only real sports ... all others are games.” Ernest Hemingway ... NRA Life Member

February 24, 2020, 01:21 PM	#10
reinert Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2008 Posts: 646	Thanks for the heads-up on the kasenit, Hawg. I've had my can on hand for many years, and haven't had to shop for any since. I can only imagine the Cherry Red and or Brownells compound works equally as well as kasenit. Probably ten years ago now, I purchased a neat little booklet titled, "How to Heat Treat: Harden, Temper & Anneal," by Susanne Warren-Bicio, Historical Arms Gunmaker (The Gunmaker Series). I don't know if it's still available or not, but I find it a great, quick reference to and about heat treating metal. I got this booklet from Muzzleloader Builders Supply (copyright 2007).

February 26, 2020, 09:30 PM	#11
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,831	Read and follow the book's instruction. No need to file on the frizzen. Remember, this is a future project that may or may not arise. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*