Restocking a rifle - at what point do you bed the action?

ligonierbill · October 10, 2018, 09:54 AM

I am working on a K29 Mauser made in Radom about 1930. No worries, it had already been modified when I got it, including the stock. Not a bad job either. But I like to work on them. I bought a nice stock from Richards Microfit and have got the thing pretty well fit up. (My second Richards stock, nice wood, but they should call them "macrofit".)

My question for you more experienced folks, should I bed the action now, or do most of my finish sanding first? I know I will be doing some sanding after, as I always manage to get a little bit of epoxy where I don't want it.

Don Fischer · October 10, 2018, 10:52 AM

I can't imagine it matter's what you do first.

Hawg · October 10, 2018, 11:18 AM

Either/or it's up to you. Hats off to you for being able to finish out a Richards stock. I've got one I've been working on on and off for about six years now.

Mobuck · October 10, 2018, 08:42 PM

"My question for you more experienced folks, should I bed the action now, "

Seriously? Bedding the action is ALWAYS the first task. Otherwise how would you know where and how much wood to remove?

Wyosmith · October 10, 2018, 09:18 PM

Do it first.
Trim off the oozing glass in about 5 hours when you can cut it like hard clay. Once it is fully hard it's more like a brittle plastic.
When you trim it well you will not have the tendency to lift splinters from the junctions of wood and metal.
Sand the areas down to look good and then do all your shaping.

BeeShooter · October 11, 2018, 05:39 AM

Do it first

ligonierbill · October 11, 2018, 06:49 AM

OK, worked out fairly well, for a ham-handed amateur. Thanks for the advice.

Scorch · October 11, 2018, 02:58 PM

Quote:

My question for you more experienced folks, should I bed the action now, or do most of my finish sanding first?

LOL I always say "if you don't know, DON'T!

Quote:

Seriously? Bedding the action is ALWAYS the first task.

Well, yeah.

Quote:

OK, worked out fairly well,

ligonierbill · October 11, 2018, 03:44 PM

Thanks to all for your helpful and thoughtful advice.

Picher · October 14, 2018, 03:27 PM

I let my bedding cure until hard. If you do anything to it when soft, you risk changing the shape and ruining the job.

mete · October 14, 2018, 09:59 PM

My stocks are 40 + years old from Acraglas. Still hard without any problems .Don't rush it let it cure completely . It won't get in the way when finishing the stock. Yes the accuracy is still there !

ligonierbill · November 3, 2018, 01:48 PM

Here is the Radom Mauser in its new stock. Maple looks good on rocklocks, so I thought I'd try it here. Looking for improved groups with the bedding. At least it fits me well. This has a new Shaw barrel that does pretty good with the old stock. Hoping for improvement. We shall see.

**4V50 Gary** · November 3, 2018, 06:33 PM

I'd rather bed it first. I hate to finish a stock and then get acraglass all over it.

FrankenMauser · November 3, 2018, 10:47 PM

How did you go about finishing the maple? Any stain? Top coat?

ligonierbill · November 4, 2018, 06:08 AM

Minwax walnut stain and Tru-Oil finish. Next time I do maple (I have a flintlock that's been "under construction" forever) I am going to try the traditional aqua fortis.

ligonierbill · March 13, 2019, 07:34 PM

It's Spring in Ohio, sort of, so I took the Polish Mauser out for a run to see how my amateur

bedding does in the cold hard world. Turns out, pretty good. I got a flier out 2", but the other 4 are inside an inch. I'm thinking the flier was too much coffee. Load is a 175 Sierra Pro Hunter over Reloder-17.

30Cal · March 13, 2019, 08:11 PM

I finish the stock first, then bed it. Stray bedding material is harder to get off bare wood.

Bag and tape the living heck out of anyplace you may handle when working with the epoxy.

October 10, 2018, 09:54 AM	#1
ligonierbill Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 2007 Posts: 2,448	Restocking a rifle - at what point do you bed the action? I am working on a K29 Mauser made in Radom about 1930. No worries, it had already been modified when I got it, including the stock. Not a bad job either. But I like to work on them. I bought a nice stock from Richards Microfit and have got the thing pretty well fit up. (My second Richards stock, nice wood, but they should call them "macrofit".) My question for you more experienced folks, should I bed the action now, or do most of my finish sanding first? I know I will be doing some sanding after, as I always manage to get a little bit of epoxy where I don't want it.

October 14, 2018, 09:59 PM	#11
mete Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2004 Location: NY State Posts: 6,575	My stocks are 40 + years old from Acraglas. Still hard without any problems .Don't rush it let it cure completely . It won't get in the way when finishing the stock. Yes the accuracy is still there ! __________________ And Watson , bring your revolver !

November 3, 2018, 06:33 PM	#13
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,829	I'd rather bed it first. I hate to finish a stock and then get acraglass all over it. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

November 3, 2018, 10:47 PM	#14
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,421	How did you go about finishing the maple? Any stain? Top coat? __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

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October 10, 2018, 10:52 AM	#2
Don Fischer Senior Member Join Date: March 2, 2017 Posts: 1,868	I can't imagine it matter's what you do first.

October 10, 2018, 11:18 AM	#3
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,188	Either/or it's up to you. Hats off to you for being able to finish out a Richards stock. I've got one I've been working on on and off for about six years now.

October 10, 2018, 08:42 PM	#4
Mobuck Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2010 Posts: 6,846	"My question for you more experienced folks, should I bed the action now, " Seriously? Bedding the action is ALWAYS the first task. Otherwise how would you know where and how much wood to remove?

October 10, 2018, 09:18 PM	#5
Wyosmith Senior Member Join Date: December 29, 2010 Location: Shoshoni Wyoming Posts: 2,713	Do it first. Trim off the oozing glass in about 5 hours when you can cut it like hard clay. Once it is fully hard it's more like a brittle plastic. When you trim it well you will not have the tendency to lift splinters from the junctions of wood and metal. Sand the areas down to look good and then do all your shaping.

October 11, 2018, 05:39 AM	#6
BeeShooter Member Join Date: August 24, 2016 Posts: 85	Do it first

October 11, 2018, 03:44 PM	#9
ligonierbill Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 2007 Posts: 2,448	Thanks to all for your helpful and thoughtful advice.

October 14, 2018, 03:27 PM	#10
Picher Senior Member Join Date: December 14, 2004 Location: Maine Posts: 3,694	I let my bedding cure until hard. If you do anything to it when soft, you risk changing the shape and ruining the job.

November 4, 2018, 06:08 AM	#15
ligonierbill Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 2007 Posts: 2,448	Minwax walnut stain and Tru-Oil finish. Next time I do maple (I have a flintlock that's been "under construction" forever) I am going to try the traditional aqua fortis.

March 13, 2019, 08:11 PM	#17
30Cal Senior Member Join Date: December 3, 2002 Posts: 1,264	I finish the stock first, then bed it. Stray bedding material is harder to get off bare wood. Bag and tape the living heck out of anyplace you may handle when working with the epoxy.