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Old June 18, 2014, 12:13 AM   #1
fish36
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model 11 ejection issues

hello. new here, and I am sure this has been addressed, but I could not find it. I am a new owner to an old shot gun, a Remington 11. I have had issues with shells ejecting. The brass gets stuck in the ejection port, and shell fails to fully eject. I have been advised that this is a 'high vs. low brass' issue by one friend, and an o ring issue by another. I have run different types of shells thru it, with the same result. Any ideas?
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Old June 18, 2014, 02:20 AM   #2
Scorch
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What gauge is the shotgun? If it is a 16 gauge, you may be running into a chamber length issue. Model 11s should eject cleanly, no matter what you put into them.
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Old June 18, 2014, 06:41 AM   #3
4V50 Gary
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Friction ring. One thing about Browning's A5/Remington Model 11 is the friction ring placement which allowed the design to function with all type of shotshells. For more powerful shells, the Friction Ring should be in the front near the endcap. For low powered shells, the Friction Ring should be in the back near the ejection port. Which way is yours?

If the friction ring is right for the shell, next check the chamber. Is it smooth and clean? A fouled chamber can make extraction sluggish. BTW, there are two extractors on it. The right hand (from the top) extractor is the primary extractor. The left hand is the secondary that provides a base against which the right hand extractor pushes the shell against.

Also check the extractor. It is secured by a screw on the left side of the receiver. Is it bent or damaged?
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Old June 18, 2014, 06:48 AM   #4
Goatwhiskers
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Just to touch on a couple of things: the Rem M11 is recoil operated, it does not have an O-ring. Second, "high brass" and "low brass" mean nothing with today's ammo. You have to read on the box and understand what charge is in your shells. In ordinary situations, load up some "heavy game" shells. Inside the forend is the recoil spring. The parts, in order, should be: recoil spring, friction ring (steel ring), friction piece, then the barrel ring. The gap in the steel spring around the brass and the gap in the brass friction piece should align. The mag tube should be oiled lightly, then wiped down with a clean rag. If you are shooting trap loads, put the friction ring on first, then the spring, then the friction piece. This should solve most ejection problems. GW
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Old June 18, 2014, 04:22 PM   #5
fish36
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Thanks!! I guess my friend confused friction ring with o ring. Going to take it apart later and see what i can find. Chamber is not immaculate, but not overly dirty, either. It is a 12 gauge, and I was using dove loads, which are pretty light. The first few rounds ejected fine. The next 5, 2 stuck. The last few I shot thru it all stuck. They are clearing the chamber, but not the 'port' (for lack of a better word, sorry). Serial # dates it as 1945. Bore is in great shape. Bluing is non existant. Looks like some one took steel wool to it.
Look for more posts from me, when i can't get it back together!!
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Old June 18, 2014, 06:11 PM   #6
James K
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While you have the barrel off to check the friction rings, give the chamber a real good cleaning with a bronze brush, a good cleaner, and patches.

Also check the magazine tube for any rust or corrosion. It should be clean and with only enough film of oil to keep it from rusting. It should not be "lubricated" as that will interfere with the operation of the friction ring.

Jim
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Old June 21, 2014, 02:56 PM   #7
Huffmanite
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Visit Remington's website. Should be able to find a manual on the model 11 that does a decent job of detailing disassembly and etc. and how to set the friction ring for appropriate shotshells.

Own one in 20 gauge I inherited from my Dad. Cleaned it good and put it away unfired for many years. First time I shot it, the recoil knocked the snot out of me. Yikes said I, and went back home to check the friction ring before shooting it again. LOL, I'd not installed the friction ring correctly.
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Old June 24, 2014, 06:57 AM   #8
Dixie Gunsmithing
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A word on friction rings. First, the ring that is to be placed at the rear of the spring, for low powered shells, is a thin steel ring, which is flat on one side, and has a bevel to the inside, on the other. It is the one you move, and you place the beveled side toward the frame, not the spring. You leave the large bronze friction collar where it is, at the front, as it is a brake shoe essentially.

With hi-power shells, both sides of the friction collar are compressed by the steel ring, whose bevels turn towards the brass collar, and the bevel inside the barrel collar. When the gun is fired, the barrel shoves its collar rearward against the bronze collar. At the rear, the steel collar in front of the spring, shoves against the collar forward, and compresses each end of the bronze collar, to brake the heavy load coming rearward. Using lighter loads, and after moving the steel ring to the back of the spring, you only compress one side of the collar, instead of both, or you have 1/2 braking.

Last, on these old guns, for either Browning or Remington, you need to keep the magazine tube clean, or it will not work correctly, even with the rings set correctly. Take off the barrel, rings, and spring. Then, using a piece of 0000 steel wool, clean the outside of the magazine tube, then oil, and reassemble.

Also, as mentioned above, if you have an old 16 gauge, you can not shoot a 2-3/4" shell in a 2-5/8" chamber. It will not eject, and the frame has to me modified (milled) to accept the longer, along with the chamber being lengthened.

This is my favorite shotgun in a semi-auto, bar none, as they shoot, and keep on shooting where others fail. If the Winchester model 12 was the "perfect repeater", the the Browning designed Auto-5 was the perfect auto. It had very few faults.
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Old June 24, 2014, 08:20 PM   #9
James K
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I am not positive, but that gun is old enough it might have been made for the old 2 1/2" shells; assuming you are using 2 3/4" shells, the extra quarter inch might be your problem.

Jim
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