S&W Model 36

[deerslayer303]

What is the value on one of these with the original grips in 90-95 percent condition (some holster wear)? 1.75-2" barrel? I'm not sure if its the 36 or the 36-1.

[bossman]

I think $300 to $400 no more unless it's something you just have to have. I think the 36-1 will have a three inch barrel. Good luck as the model 36 is one of my favorites.

[carguychris]

Originally Posted by bossman

I think $300 to $400 no more unless it's something you just have to have.

+1. The original box and/or earlier-production features like a flat cylinder release latch, diamond screw escutcheons on the stocks, and a pinned barrel will typically nudge the gun towards the high end of that value range.

FWIW S&W sold a LOT of these guns, so (a) don't pay a lot more than what Bossman wrote, because you CAN find another one, and (b) NON-original boxes are readily available on GB and Fleabay, so IMHO you shouldn't pay much more than $25 extra for a box with the wrong serial number on it.

Originally Posted by bossman

I think the 36-1 will have a three inch barrel.

Mostly correct- the M36-1 had a 3" heavy non-tapered barrel.

The M36 had a 1-7/8" tapered or 3" tapered barrel.

[deerslayer303]

And I couldn't be happier. I traded a Kel Tec PF9 for it. It does have a pinned barrel, but I don't know what you mean by a flat latch. And is there any way to tell the year? Here is a few pics, please excuse the finger prints, I've been holding it quite a bit today . It sure is pretty to be so old. And the action is slick as glass. I'm just a revolver guy, so this trade was a no brainer for me.

[biohazurd]

Nice catch! I love the model 36. Unlike some newer ultralight aluminum, scandium, polymer, ect framed guns, The 36 is an absolute dream to shoot.

[deerslayer303]

This may be a dumb question. But since this model has the firing pin ON the hammer, I should carry it with the hammer down on an empty chamber, right?

[MercyfulFate]

I would carry it hammer down on a loaded chamber, the "safety" is the knowledge that it's there and don't put your finger on the trigger until you're ready to fire. I guess you could sacrifice a round but why bother?

[deerslayer303]

One more question. I want to change the grips. This is a square butt, J Frame, right? Sorry for all the ignorant questions, but this is only my second Smith.

[Dan Newberry]

It might be a little tough finding grips for that... the square J-frames are not so common.

Maye you can find a Tyler T grip adapter... they work pretty well on these.

Nice revolver...

[carguychris]

Originally Posted by deerslayer303

I traded a Kel Tec PF9 for it.

If it was a straight trade, you made out like a bandit.

Originally Posted by deerslayer303

It does have a pinned barrel, but I don't know what you mean by a flat latch.

That's not a flat latch. The flat latch does not have the scalloped or scoop-shaped relief on the side.

Originally Posted by deerslayer303

And is there any way to tell the year?

Post the serial number in the stickied S&W Serial Number Search thread.

That said, No flat latch + non-diamond grips + pinned barrel = sometime between 1969 and 1982.

Originally Posted by deerslayer303

But since this model has the firing pin ON the hammer, I should carry it with the hammer down on an empty chamber, right?

There's no need. Almost all postwar S&Ws, including all J frames, have a sliding hammer block that is nearly failsafe.

Originally Posted by deerslayer303

This is a square butt, J Frame, right?

Yes, which makes is a little more special than your average M36.

Originally Posted by Dan Newberry

May[b]e you can find a Tyler T grip adapter... they work pretty well on these.

Agreed, but be forewarned, I'm not sure whether Tyler is shipping new T-grips right now. The company abruptly halted shipments and then underwent a management shakeup late last year. Last I heard, the new management had promised to start shipments again, but I've not heard any confirmation that this has actually occurred. Furthermore, they probably have to fulfill lapsed orders first.

If anyone has any more recent news about Tyler, feel free to fill me in.

[deerslayer303]

carguychris, Thank you for that very informative write up. It was almost a straight across trade. I knew that the value of the 36 was more than the plastic gun so I gave him 5 boxes of ammo with the Kel Tec, and he gave me the 36 and 3 boxes of ammo and a holster. I'll just leave the original grips on it, until I can do otherwise. I'm tickled to get a steel and wood revolver. I really didn't want a new space age loominum, titanium, plastic,etc feather weight. SWMBO has an LCR and I don't like the thing one bit. Shoots great but will maul my hand up pretty good. That and there is just something that I like about a FULL HAMMER!

[michael t]

Its safe to carry all 5 loaded . S&W corrected that carry empty cyl problem at end of WWII

I love a steel frame 36 All 3 of mine have the pin barrel and a real firing pin

I wouldn't my self walk across the street for a New S&W if was free. Its not the lock its just way they have cheapened them out over the years .

[deerslayer303]

Can I occasionally shoot +P ammo in this?

[Sport45]

When I carry my no-dash model it has +P in it. I've fired some to verify my practice fodder hits the same point of aim.

That said, the older 36's are not rated for +P.

[alex0535]

I wouldn't keep it loaded with anything less than a full cylinder.

You mentioned yours being pretty for its years. It is still in its early years of life. Take care of it and it will provide you decades of service.

Its a firearm that demands a bit more practice than most in my opinion.

Like Sport said, I wouldn't make a habit of shooting +P out of an older model 36 that isn't rated for it. But I would feel comfortable with running a cylinder through it to check POI and keeping it loaded with +P for carrying it. Other than that just shoot standard ammo out of it. It isn't rated for it, take this advise at your own discretion.

[carguychris]

S&W's factory recommendations re: .38Spl+P ammo in all-steel J frames such as the M36 have vacillated over the years. It depends on which version of the manual you consult; some say yes, others say no.

Most experts consider it a premature wear issue rather than a potential catastrophic failure issue.

Mandatory disclaimer: The recommendations are different for "Airweight" alloy-frame J frames. Only 1996 and later guns that use the lengthened J Magnum frame and have the ".38 S&W SPL. +P" barrel rollmark should be fired with +P. Earlier frames are known to stretch and/or crack if +P is used. Very early alloy-cylinder Airweight J frames are unsafe to fire even with standard-pressure loads.

[deerslayer303]

Thanks again guys! Now what is the deal with the pinned barrel issue? I mean I know the pin secures the barrel. But what is the draw back of one with a non pinned barrel? I'm just arming myself for future Old S&W purchases.

[carguychris]

Now what is the deal with the pinned barrel issue? I mean I know the pin secures the barrel. But what is the draw back of one with a non pinned barrel?

The non-pinned barrel makes the revolver less expensive to manufacture.

Collectors like the pinned barrels because they're traditional, and they represent an old-school spare-no-expense labor-intensive manufacturing philosophy.

It doesn't make one iota of difference in the way the gun shoots.