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Old January 31, 2009, 03:22 AM   #1
dan97526
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Differences? Forster/Bonanza CoAx Models

Friends,

I have an opportunity to buy a Bonanza Co-Ax press for a decent, not great, price. I am concerned though that it may be an older model and thus expensive or difficult to obtain parts. Unfortunately I don't know how to tell the B1 and B2 models apart, and the seller doesn't know. I don't think I have ever actually seen one.

So if anyone knows, what are the differences in the two models in both design and function? How can I determine what model it is, if it's not labeled (if it were I would think the owner could tell me)?

Also, what caveats are there to buying a used press? Anything to look for?

Thanks,

Dan
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Old January 31, 2009, 03:51 PM   #2
ClarkEMyers
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I'd say the wrong worry - and they do hold their price.

I'd say the wrong worry - and they do hold their price.

Unless lost no parts should be needed - small parts such as the springs and case holder jaws in various L/S sizes and all that are readily available.

The only changes that matter so far as I can tell are paint color - original Bonanza was brown, Forster runs to bright red - and clearance on the handle for extra long dies such as the micrometer adjustable dies for longer cartridges. The older presses - such as mine - are limited to about a .308 length with micrometer adjustable Redding dies - see e.g. the disclaimers Sinclair published - the newest third iteration will accept longer dies.

Notice this applies strictly to the exta long micrometer adjustment style dies; conventional dies for most anything in 7/8x14 will work just fine and better than in other style presses. Obviously the press is not intended for and does not work with .50 Browning and some of the exotic oversize English, Continental and American cartridges from the black powder era and shortly after.

No better press made if it's in good shape and meets your needs.
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Old January 31, 2009, 04:41 PM   #3
amamnn
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Why not ask Forster?!!!!!

They're honest people.


http://www.forsterproducts.com/Pages/contact.asp
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Old January 31, 2009, 06:05 PM   #4
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Between the answers to your question here and where you posted it on the Shooters Forum, I would say the color is your easy test.
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Old January 31, 2009, 06:27 PM   #5
BigJakeJ1s
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IINM, the Bonanza model had the tubular handle pinned in place on the handle yoke. This might need a little work if you want to put their optional short, ball tipped handle on it. It also had a different on-press priming system. The latter can be upgraded, and I've heard you can send in the press and have it updated with the latest B3 long-yoke handle that clears the longest dies.

They list $48 for the updated priming system conversion kit. If you use a hand primer anyway (I do), save your money. It also seems like I've heard on one of these forums that they charge ~$70 for the B3 upgrade. If you catch a sale, you can get new B3s for ~$210 plus shipping and tax if applicable. So if you want the B3 handle clearance, you would not want to pay more than $140 for a B1/B2. Or more than $100 for a B1 if you want to use the on-press priming feature.

BTW, every Forster Ultra Micrometer seating die will work in the B1/B2.

If it is in good shape, and at a good price, get it. Otherwise buy one new. It is an excellent press. I am perfectly happy with my B2, but I use a hand primer instead of the on-press priming feature.

Andy
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Old June 1, 2019, 09:43 AM   #6
Tedbytes
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Bonanza Coax Press B1 (pre- Forster)

I have had my Bonanza since 1978 as made by then Bonanza. It is equipped with many jaws that have the floating shell plate and works flawlessly. My question concerns a changeover made after my purchase in that the hole in front of the shellplate spreader plate has a flat head screw installed and not left empty (not used as expressed by Forster).The purpose of this screw was called a "caliber specific" with no mention on how to use it?? I discovered early on that by engaging this screw, the jaws open and close correctly but Do Not float the two halves. Newer Forster Coax presses do not even mention this. If I engage this screw,there is always a secondary spreader that prevents the plates sliding left and right. If I disengage this second screw, there is an occasion where the plates upon normal operation,shift slightly left making the sharp pointed jaw opening screw miss the jaw spreader under-cut and comes to a dead stop. What is going on here? I have had successful use over 40 years by leaving a slight engagement of theis caliber screw so that there is no floating but more importantly; there is no miss of the jaw spreader. Your thoughts.
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Old June 2, 2019, 07:25 PM   #7
RC20
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It would be best to post your question as a separate item vs tagging onto an existing one.

I know I am guilty of going off a post but try to wait until its run its course.

The subject line is going to not get attention your specific question deserves.
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Old June 2, 2019, 08:11 PM   #8
Unclenick
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You all do realize this was solved at the end of January with a call to Forster.
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Old June 3, 2019, 12:13 PM   #9
RC20
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No, I get so excited that I just post and don't look at dates!
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