I'm scared to fire my first reload

CoyoteHunter5 · September 22, 2015, 02:36 PM

In some of my threads, I mentioned that I make my own ammunition. This is partially true, but I've never fired one before. Should I be scared to shoot this load? I'm using CCI Large Rifle primers under 35 Grains of IMR 4064 under a 50 grain Nosler Varmint Bullet (the one with the orange tips) and the overall length of the cartridge is 59.95mm (I use mm because I work for a German Company). This is a .22-250 round, and I'm scared to death to even test fire it. The books I looked at said to start at 34 grains of 4064 and not to go above 37 so I decided on 35. Is there any reason to be worried here?

TimSr · September 22, 2015, 02:45 PM

The books I looked at said to start at 34 grains of 4064 and not to go above 37 so I decided on 35.

You're going to fine in THIS case, but re-read your own sentence and tell me what "starting load" means to you. If you are totally new to reloading, its probably a good idea to NOT skip over "starting loads" unless you have already test fired some.

jwrowland77 · September 22, 2015, 02:57 PM

I have to agree with TimSr here. Starting load is the starting load for a reason. You should be fine in this case, but just remember to start at the Start Load and work your way up.

Can't tell what the overall length is, but if it compares to what it says in the manual on length, then you should be fine.

higgite · September 22, 2015, 03:08 PM

As others have said, starting loads are called that for a reason. The starting and max loads that you read were probably established using a rifle or universal receiver different than your rifle (different headspace, different leade, etc.). Best to start at starting load and work your way up while watching each step for pressure signs.

I remember shooting my first reload. I was nervous as a cat at dog convention.

603Country · September 22, 2015, 03:17 PM

I rarely ever start at the lowest load, but never above the middle load. Only once has that not been Ok, and that was with Dad's NEF 223. I was about 1/3 between min and max and it was way too hot a load for that rifle.

That said, I'm not new at this reloading biz. If I was, I'd be inclined to start near or at the minimum. Above all else, be safe. And I always wear hearing protection and good safety glasses when doing load work up.

CoyoteHunter5 · September 22, 2015, 03:30 PM

Yeah I fudged up on that part, loading 35 instead of 34 grains. I just didn't want to go the "bare minimum" and make sure I was shooting close to factory. And as far as overall length, I went off a factory round and what was mentioned in the statistics of this round, which is 2.35" or 59.69mm. I figured I would load the case out about 0.25mm over what was stated as far as standard length because it would only reduce pressure and leave less of a danger. Am I correct?

jwrowland77 · September 22, 2015, 03:32 PM

Depends.....on how close what the book says and how it chambers.

If you have access to a OAL gauge, you can easily find out where your lands are and how far off you are.

CoyoteHunter5 · September 22, 2015, 03:34 PM

I forgot to mention this, but I already cycled the round in the rifle, and it went in easy, bolt closed easy, and it ejected easy. I also have an "go" gauge made by Lyman, and all the rounds passed.

jwrowland77 · September 22, 2015, 03:45 PM

That'll tell you if your shoulders are set back far enough to chamber.

It's important to know if you're .001" off lands or .03" off lands. At least it is too me anyway. This can play into how much pressure you might get.

It's like a U shaped curve, or at least that's what I've seen testing. You seat to the book...as you lengthen it, Muzzle Velocity goes down as well as pressure (don't have testing equipment, just going off MV). As you make your way closer to the lands, pressure and MV start to go back up.

CoyoteHunter5 · September 22, 2015, 04:04 PM

So in other words, my OAL should be safe?

jwrowland77 · September 22, 2015, 04:05 PM

Should be, but always better to be safe than sorry and check.

CoyoteHunter5 · September 22, 2015, 04:08 PM

I use a digital caliper to check my OAL. It pays off to be a machinist and know how to use them.

jwrowland77 · September 22, 2015, 04:09 PM

OAL doesn't mean anything except if it'll fit in your mag. You need to take measurements from base to ogive.

jwrowland77 · September 22, 2015, 04:13 PM

The ogive is what actually contacts rifling. Only thing point comes in contact with us the paper/intended target.

NINEX19 · September 22, 2015, 04:21 PM

Not to squabble too much over semantics, but I have always read the load data in books not as a "starting load" but rather a "minimum" load. Those are two different things. It is extremely rare for me to start at the minimum load since under that amount of powder can cause problems (squibs). I always start above the MINIMUM load usually some where 1/4 to 1/2 between min and max. I have never had an issue with loads doing this. When I was newer, starting at the Min. load, was always just wasting time an powder. I have never needed to adjust my powder down. Usually always up.

Starting 1 grain above the MINIMUM load listed considering what the MAX load is, should be perfectly fine. OAL length is another issue though.

I know I will take some heat for these comments, but a majority of the reloaders I know do it this way.

Shimpy · September 22, 2015, 05:11 PM

I know how you feel. When I first started reloading about 1970 I bought a Lee Reloading tool kit. I don't know if it is still sold but was just a powder scoop and die to hammer in the fired case to size and then seat the bullet. I don't remember how it was primed. At the gun shop I bought it at I asked the guy behind the counter if there is anything else I need to buy and he said......"a bible"
After getting enough courage to fire my first .357 mag reload I was highly upset that the round was hardly strong enough to get out of the barrel. From there came the scale, RCBS Rockchucker press, etc. etc.

9MMand223only · September 22, 2015, 05:51 PM

I think its not a good idea to reload without guidance.

Have somebody that reloads come over to your house, help you make a couple hundred, then go to range with them, have them show you stuff in a chrono.

that will ease your mind

gunnny12 · September 22, 2015, 06:18 PM

Well I would do it.
Just make sure that the load was on the money.
2 grs is bunch really to be off.

Jeff

CoyoteHunter5 · September 22, 2015, 06:24 PM

I do not have anyone close enough to ask to come over to help me, but there is a guy at work I consult with on a daily basis because I work with him, and I walk him through my steps. And for everyone's information, I did make the investment on the Hornady Lock 'n Load Auto Charge. That sucker really helps out a lot. Before I bought it and I was just playing around with reloading, just getting a feel for it, it took me forever to get the exact charge I wanted.

jwrowland77 · September 22, 2015, 06:34 PM

I love my Auto Charge. Have you fine tuned your trickle speed?

There's a way you can fine tune trickle speed to go nice and slow. With most my rifle stuff, I have to start the trickle a full 2 grains before target weight, but it makes for accurate loads.

CoyoteHunter5 · September 22, 2015, 06:44 PM

No I didn't fine tune it. I just set the trickle on slow because it would always overload on normal ever single time.

jwrowland77 · September 22, 2015, 06:47 PM

Not only can you set it on slow, but you can make it even slower.

Here's a link to the Hornady sheet to help out:

http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/...Adjustment.pdf

Setting it to start trickling a couple grains from target weight also helps out.

The fine tuning internal trickle speed helps a ton.

CoyoteHunter5 · September 22, 2015, 06:59 PM

Will it hold those settings after I set them even though I unplug it and clean it every time?

jwrowland77 · September 22, 2015, 06:59 PM

It'll hold the internal trickle speed once you adjust it yes.

You'll have to reset when it starts trickling from target every time.

CoyoteHunter5 · September 22, 2015, 07:04 PM

I like how close to the target it gets before it starts trickling. That's not an issue. I might wait till I start loading .45-70 before I change anything to be honest.

September 22, 2015, 02:36 PM	#1
CoyoteHunter5 Member Join Date: July 19, 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 58	I'm scared to fire my first reload In some of my threads, I mentioned that I make my own ammunition. This is partially true, but I've never fired one before. Should I be scared to shoot this load? I'm using CCI Large Rifle primers under 35 Grains of IMR 4064 under a 50 grain Nosler Varmint Bullet (the one with the orange tips) and the overall length of the cartridge is 59.95mm (I use mm because I work for a German Company). This is a .22-250 round, and I'm scared to death to even test fire it. The books I looked at said to start at 34 grains of 4064 and not to go above 37 so I decided on 35. Is there any reason to be worried here?

September 22, 2015, 03:45 PM	#9
jwrowland77 Senior Member Join Date: March 23, 2012 Location: Conway, Arkansas Posts: 1,398	I'm scared to fire my first reload That'll tell you if your shoulders are set back far enough to chamber. It's important to know if you're .001" off lands or .03" off lands. At least it is too me anyway. This can play into how much pressure you might get. It's like a U shaped curve, or at least that's what I've seen testing. You seat to the book...as you lengthen it, Muzzle Velocity goes down as well as pressure (don't have testing equipment, just going off MV). As you make your way closer to the lands, pressure and MV start to go back up. Last edited by jwrowland77; September 22, 2015 at 03:46 PM. Reason: Spelling error

September 22, 2015, 02:45 PM	#2
TimSr Senior Member Join Date: March 8, 2013 Location: Rittman, Ohio Posts: 2,074	The books I looked at said to start at 34 grains of 4064 and not to go above 37 so I decided on 35. You're going to fine in THIS case, but re-read your own sentence and tell me what "starting load" means to you. If you are totally new to reloading, its probably a good idea to NOT skip over "starting loads" unless you have already test fired some.

September 22, 2015, 02:57 PM	#3
jwrowland77 Senior Member Join Date: March 23, 2012 Location: Conway, Arkansas Posts: 1,398	I have to agree with TimSr here. Starting load is the starting load for a reason. You should be fine in this case, but just remember to start at the Start Load and work your way up. Can't tell what the overall length is, but if it compares to what it says in the manual on length, then you should be fine.

September 22, 2015, 03:08 PM	#4
higgite Senior Member Join Date: October 21, 2010 Posts: 1,025	As others have said, starting loads are called that for a reason. The starting and max loads that you read were probably established using a rifle or universal receiver different than your rifle (different headspace, different leade, etc.). Best to start at starting load and work your way up while watching each step for pressure signs. I remember shooting my first reload. I was nervous as a cat at dog convention.

September 22, 2015, 03:17 PM	#5
603Country Senior Member Join Date: January 6, 2011 Location: Thornton, Texas Posts: 3,998	I rarely ever start at the lowest load, but never above the middle load. Only once has that not been Ok, and that was with Dad's NEF 223. I was about 1/3 between min and max and it was way too hot a load for that rifle. That said, I'm not new at this reloading biz. If I was, I'd be inclined to start near or at the minimum. Above all else, be safe. And I always wear hearing protection and good safety glasses when doing load work up.

September 22, 2015, 03:30 PM	#6
CoyoteHunter5 Member Join Date: July 19, 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 58	Yeah I fudged up on that part, loading 35 instead of 34 grains. I just didn't want to go the "bare minimum" and make sure I was shooting close to factory. And as far as overall length, I went off a factory round and what was mentioned in the statistics of this round, which is 2.35" or 59.69mm. I figured I would load the case out about 0.25mm over what was stated as far as standard length because it would only reduce pressure and leave less of a danger. Am I correct?

September 22, 2015, 03:32 PM	#7
jwrowland77 Senior Member Join Date: March 23, 2012 Location: Conway, Arkansas Posts: 1,398	Depends.....on how close what the book says and how it chambers. If you have access to a OAL gauge, you can easily find out where your lands are and how far off you are.

September 22, 2015, 03:34 PM	#8
CoyoteHunter5 Member Join Date: July 19, 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 58	I forgot to mention this, but I already cycled the round in the rifle, and it went in easy, bolt closed easy, and it ejected easy. I also have an "go" gauge made by Lyman, and all the rounds passed.

September 22, 2015, 04:04 PM	#10
CoyoteHunter5 Member Join Date: July 19, 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 58	So in other words, my OAL should be safe?

September 22, 2015, 04:05 PM	#11
jwrowland77 Senior Member Join Date: March 23, 2012 Location: Conway, Arkansas Posts: 1,398	Should be, but always better to be safe than sorry and check.

September 22, 2015, 04:08 PM	#12
CoyoteHunter5 Member Join Date: July 19, 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 58	I use a digital caliper to check my OAL. It pays off to be a machinist and know how to use them.

September 22, 2015, 04:09 PM	#13
jwrowland77 Senior Member Join Date: March 23, 2012 Location: Conway, Arkansas Posts: 1,398	OAL doesn't mean anything except if it'll fit in your mag. You need to take measurements from base to ogive.

September 22, 2015, 04:13 PM	#14
jwrowland77 Senior Member Join Date: March 23, 2012 Location: Conway, Arkansas Posts: 1,398	The ogive is what actually contacts rifling. Only thing point comes in contact with us the paper/intended target.

September 22, 2015, 04:21 PM	#15
NINEX19 Senior Member Join Date: December 12, 2001 Location: Washington State Posts: 470	Not to squabble too much over semantics, but I have always read the load data in books not as a "starting load" but rather a "minimum" load. Those are two different things. It is extremely rare for me to start at the minimum load since under that amount of powder can cause problems (squibs). I always start above the MINIMUM load usually some where 1/4 to 1/2 between min and max. I have never had an issue with loads doing this. When I was newer, starting at the Min. load, was always just wasting time an powder. I have never needed to adjust my powder down. Usually always up. Starting 1 grain above the MINIMUM load listed considering what the MAX load is, should be perfectly fine. OAL length is another issue though. I know I will take some heat for these comments, but a majority of the reloaders I know do it this way.

September 22, 2015, 05:11 PM	#16
Shimpy Senior Member Join Date: August 27, 2015 Posts: 153	I know how you feel. When I first started reloading about 1970 I bought a Lee Reloading tool kit. I don't know if it is still sold but was just a powder scoop and die to hammer in the fired case to size and then seat the bullet. I don't remember how it was primed. At the gun shop I bought it at I asked the guy behind the counter if there is anything else I need to buy and he said......"a bible" After getting enough courage to fire my first .357 mag reload I was highly upset that the round was hardly strong enough to get out of the barrel. From there came the scale, RCBS Rockchucker press, etc. etc.

September 22, 2015, 05:51 PM	#17
9MMand223only Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2014 Posts: 283	I think its not a good idea to reload without guidance. Have somebody that reloads come over to your house, help you make a couple hundred, then go to range with them, have them show you stuff in a chrono. that will ease your mind

September 22, 2015, 06:18 PM	#18
gunnny12 Member Join Date: August 9, 2015 Posts: 93	Well I would do it. Just make sure that the load was on the money. 2 grs is bunch really to be off. Jeff

September 22, 2015, 06:24 PM	#19
CoyoteHunter5 Member Join Date: July 19, 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 58	I do not have anyone close enough to ask to come over to help me, but there is a guy at work I consult with on a daily basis because I work with him, and I walk him through my steps. And for everyone's information, I did make the investment on the Hornady Lock 'n Load Auto Charge. That sucker really helps out a lot. Before I bought it and I was just playing around with reloading, just getting a feel for it, it took me forever to get the exact charge I wanted.

September 22, 2015, 06:34 PM	#20
jwrowland77 Senior Member Join Date: March 23, 2012 Location: Conway, Arkansas Posts: 1,398	I love my Auto Charge. Have you fine tuned your trickle speed? There's a way you can fine tune trickle speed to go nice and slow. With most my rifle stuff, I have to start the trickle a full 2 grains before target weight, but it makes for accurate loads.

September 22, 2015, 06:44 PM	#21
CoyoteHunter5 Member Join Date: July 19, 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 58	No I didn't fine tune it. I just set the trickle on slow because it would always overload on normal ever single time.

September 22, 2015, 06:47 PM	#22
jwrowland77 Senior Member Join Date: March 23, 2012 Location: Conway, Arkansas Posts: 1,398	Not only can you set it on slow, but you can make it even slower. Here's a link to the Hornady sheet to help out: http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/...Adjustment.pdf Setting it to start trickling a couple grains from target weight also helps out. The fine tuning internal trickle speed helps a ton.

September 22, 2015, 06:59 PM	#23
CoyoteHunter5 Member Join Date: July 19, 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 58	Will it hold those settings after I set them even though I unplug it and clean it every time?

September 22, 2015, 07:04 PM	#25
CoyoteHunter5 Member Join Date: July 19, 2012 Location: Ohio Posts: 58	I like how close to the target it gets before it starts trickling. That's not an issue. I might wait till I start loading .45-70 before I change anything to be honest.