How do you keep a nickel plated revolver shiny?

aarondhgraham · May 16, 2012, 04:45 PM

I have a very nice Nickel plated Model 34,,,
I know I should not use anything abrasive at all on this gun.

What should I use to keep it nice and shiny?

Aarond

.

Grant D · May 16, 2012, 04:55 PM

I use Hoppes gun metal polish on mine,and also on my stainless handguns.
It comes in a tube like toothpaste, just a little bit of it goes a long way, and it's not abrasive.

BigJimP · May 16, 2012, 05:15 PM

There are a variety of "mag wheel polishes " on the market if it has no abrasives...

but personally I use Flitz liquid polish ....you can get it from Brownells and other places...

it works on Nickel and Stainless guns ...

Here's a photo of a stainless Freedom Arms / and a Nickel model 27-2 S&W...
http://thefiringline.com/forums/atta...2&d=1336585674

the Freedom Arms is new ( only polished once this week ) ...the Model 27-2 has been polished many, many times...( both still look great ) and get shot a lot...

zippy13 · May 16, 2012, 05:48 PM

I'm another Flitz fan.

Dfariswheel · May 16, 2012, 06:29 PM

Here's a secret for you..... ALL metal polishes are abrasive. That's what metal polish is.
The abrasive may be very fine and the maker may not state that their's is abrasive but they all are.

Every time you use a metal polish on nickel it abrades off a thin layer of the nickel.
Rub a little too hard, use a more aggressive polish, or use too often and you'll abrade the nickel right down to the steel.

Used only once in a while and when absolutely necessary and used very gently you'll do a lot less damage.
A possibly better option is to use a NON-Automotive wax like Renaissance Hard Carnuba or Johnson's Paste wax will keep it shiny without damage.

shortwave · May 16, 2012, 09:36 PM

^^^+1^^^

Renaissance Hard Carnuba is pricey but well worth the $.

Deaf Smith · May 16, 2012, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Renaissance Hard Carnuba or Johnson's Paste wax

The smart move!

Deaf

drail · May 17, 2012, 07:42 AM

"All polishes are abrasive". Absolute truth.

Dave P · May 17, 2012, 08:56 AM

Johnson's Paste wax

aarondhgraham · May 17, 2012, 09:46 AM

I was fairly certain that any polish had to have an abrasive in it,,,
My initial concern was that of wearing through the plating.

I have some Johnson's Paste Wax,,,
I'll give that a try this weekend when I'm kicking back.

Thanks for the information.

Aarond

.

buckhorn · May 17, 2012, 11:20 AM

I,ve used the wax shop, super glaze, hi-def. for years on all my guns, blue or stainless. but i hear stainless wheel polish is better for stainless, or bright guns. I think I'll try it. In mean time the wax shop product has worked great, leaves no residue around any stampings or engravings. works good on wood too. It's mostly carnauba.

BigJimP · May 17, 2012, 02:36 PM

Wax isn't "polish" in the sense of doing any cleaning Aarond...

wax won't remove some of the carbon that my revolvers get on the sides or the faces of their cyclinders...

aarondhgraham · May 17, 2012, 03:12 PM

I believe you are correct when you say wax doesn't polish (clean),,,
in fact it would probably encase any grime even tighter.

I've had decent results cleaning the nickel plated gun,,,
But the sheen that I would like to see isn't there,,,
In fact the finish is rather dull after cleaning.

So I will clean it very well,,,
Then I'll try the wax to make it shiny.

I like shiny.

Aarond

.

Flint Ridge · May 17, 2012, 05:39 PM

I'd do the Flitz once to clean it up and followup routinely thereafter with Ren Wax as mentioned, it's really nice. Then Flitz once a decade or something like that

BigJimP · May 17, 2012, 06:53 PM

I like shiny too ....

I had my Freedom Arms 4 3/4" and my Nickel mod 27 4" at the range this afternoon ....( put 6 boxes thru them combined - with some tactical drills on the model 27 ..and some fun with the single action Freedom Arms) ....and I'm heading back in a few minutes to put at least 2 more boxes thru the Freedom Arms ( both .357 mag ) ....and I just cleaned and polished both of them at my desk in my office in the last half hour .....( I closed the door - told my secretary to hold my calls ) ...

I hate to drag around dirty - crummy looking guns...

Farmalljon · May 17, 2012, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Here's a secret for you..... ALL metal polishes are abrasive. That's what metal polish is.

This is incorrect. Most metalk polishes work by etching the surface of the metal, and not by abrading it. Abrading metal is to remove the top layer of metal by phyiscally dragging or scraping a (usually) harder substance across the surface, thereby mechanically removing the base metal, much like a chisel removes wood. Etching is aprocess where the top layer of metal is removed by exposing it to an acidic substance that chemically disolves the top layer of metal. The result is the same.... A shiny new layer of metal is exposed. The difference is one is a mechanical process, and one is a chemical process.

buckhorn · May 18, 2012, 02:35 PM

The only thing I've found, at least around here, is flitz cloths followed by scrubbing the cylinder face with a plastic pot scrubber. Then I floow up with wd-40 rag, and then some carnuba wax. I make sure surface is clean before wax. But getting front of cylinders on stainless or nickle guns require Flitz. Believe me, I've wasted all kind's of money to get powder off stainless guns, bit Flitz works the best for me.

buckhorn · May 18, 2012, 03:03 PM

I forgot to add in my last post that I've used polishing compound {not rubbing compound] to clean the flutes on my stainless gun occasionally when it gets bad. DO you think it's hurting my gun? It sure shines when I'm done but I don't know the results in the future. For reference, It's an old model vaquero with polished stainless finsih. Also a taurus nickel or chrome plated revolver. I inherited it so I'm not sure what finish it has.

DividedWeFall · May 18, 2012, 03:13 PM

I have a 20yrd old Nickel plated PT99AF and it was really bad. It had stains in it and was as flat and dull as 180 grit sandpaper. I had never polished it. Just light lubricant.

Polished it with Noxon 7 last weekend and it looks new again.
I think Flitz and Noxon are the same company and almost (if not) the same product.
Not sure.

Dfariswheel · May 18, 2012, 06:01 PM

Buckhorn:

As long as it's a stainless gun and you're polishing the outside of the cylinder, (not the cylinder face) the only possible damage is that over time the abrasive might blur the sharp edges of the flutes and make them look odd.

If you're using an abrasive on nickel you WILL wear the finish through sooner or later to bare steel.

Bill DeShivs · May 18, 2012, 06:17 PM

Farmalljon-
Polishing is done by abrasion-period. Some polishes also contain ingredients that chemically remove metal-but I wouldn't use them on a gun. Etching does not give the same finish as polishing. You are the one who's wrong.
Simichrome polish is probably the finest polish for use on a nickel plated gun, but I would advise using it once every 7-8 years.

Farmalljon · May 19, 2012, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Polishing is done by abrasion-period.

I have to respectfully disagree. There are lots of "non-abrasive" metal polishes on the market. Not only do they state that on the containers, but if you research the ingredients, you will find no abrasives listed. Now you can split hairs if you want to, and say that in the TRUE sense of the word "polish", it means to remove the oxidized or tarnished top layer of metal, exposing shiny new metal. And that any "non-abrasive" polish is just a cleaner. But, when people here on TFL ask about "polishing" their gun, they are asking. "how do I make my gun shiny?" and their options include both abrasive and non-abrasive metal polishes. And if we are splitting hairs, than the quote at the top of this post is most definitely false. At my place of business, we routinely "electro-polish" metal components. The components are submerged in an electrolyte solution, and an elecrtic charge is passed through them, removing the top layer of metal. It is one of the most complete and effective ways in existance to polish metal, and there is absolutely zero abrasives used in the process.

Bill DeShivs · May 19, 2012, 01:46 PM

Then you are electrolytically removing the top layer of metal, right?

animal · May 19, 2012, 02:29 PM

First definition I saw ..
polish - to make smooth and glossy, especially by rubbing or friction

You’re both right. but the dictionary’s wrong, since friction has little to do with it….

BillDeShivs might be "especially" right, but only if the rubbing includes abrading... and if the elements of second half of the definition are separable... if not separable, "rubbing" gets thrown out too.

And "smooth" … does this include the base metal, or does the smoothing only refer to removing the microscopic roughness of the oxidized portion of the metal. Generally, electrolytic methods only remove the oxidation, and do not "smooth" the base metal... this could go on for awhile ...

but it's silly … Are you guys Polish lawyers ?

May 16, 2012, 04:45 PM	#1
aarondhgraham Senior Member Join Date: December 1, 2009 Location: Stillwater, OKlahoma Posts: 8,638	How do you keep a nickel plated revolver shiny? I have a very nice Nickel plated Model 34,,, I know I should not use anything abrasive at all on this gun. What should I use to keep it nice and shiny? Aarond . __________________ Never ever give an enemy the advantage of a verbal threat. Caje: The coward dies a thousand times, the brave only once. Kirby: That's about all it takes, ain't it? Aarond is good,,, Aarond is wise,,, Always trust Aarond! (most of the time)

May 17, 2012, 08:56 AM	#9
Dave P Senior Member Join Date: August 16, 1999 Location: North Florida Posts: 1,346	Johnson's Paste wax __________________ I think this country is screwed.

May 17, 2012, 09:46 AM	#10
aarondhgraham Senior Member Join Date: December 1, 2009 Location: Stillwater, OKlahoma Posts: 8,638	Thanks gentlemen,,, I was fairly certain that any polish had to have an abrasive in it,,, My initial concern was that of wearing through the plating. I have some Johnson's Paste Wax,,, I'll give that a try this weekend when I'm kicking back. Thanks for the information. Aarond . __________________ Never ever give an enemy the advantage of a verbal threat. Caje: The coward dies a thousand times, the brave only once. Kirby: That's about all it takes, ain't it? Aarond is good,,, Aarond is wise,,, Always trust Aarond! (most of the time)

May 17, 2012, 11:20 AM	#11
buckhorn Senior Member Join Date: May 11, 2012 Location: mid michigan Posts: 196	Shiny stainless I,ve used the wax shop, super glaze, hi-def. for years on all my guns, blue or stainless. but i hear stainless wheel polish is better for stainless, or bright guns. I think I'll try it. In mean time the wax shop product has worked great, leaves no residue around any stampings or engravings. works good on wood too. It's mostly carnauba.

May 17, 2012, 03:12 PM	#13
aarondhgraham Senior Member Join Date: December 1, 2009 Location: Stillwater, OKlahoma Posts: 8,638	Hello BigJimP,,, I believe you are correct when you say wax doesn't polish (clean),,, in fact it would probably encase any grime even tighter. I've had decent results cleaning the nickel plated gun,,, But the sheen that I would like to see isn't there,,, In fact the finish is rather dull after cleaning. So I will clean it very well,,, Then I'll try the wax to make it shiny. I like shiny. Aarond . __________________ Never ever give an enemy the advantage of a verbal threat. Caje: The coward dies a thousand times, the brave only once. Kirby: That's about all it takes, ain't it? Aarond is good,,, Aarond is wise,,, Always trust Aarond! (most of the time)

May 16, 2012, 04:55 PM	#2
Grant D Senior Member Join Date: August 14, 2011 Location: Brazos County, Texas Posts: 1,038	I use Hoppes gun metal polish on mine,and also on my stainless handguns. It comes in a tube like toothpaste, just a little bit of it goes a long way, and it's not abrasive.

May 16, 2012, 05:15 PM	#3
BigJimP Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2005 Posts: 13,195	There are a variety of "mag wheel polishes " on the market if it has no abrasives... but personally I use Flitz liquid polish ....you can get it from Brownells and other places... it works on Nickel and Stainless guns ... Here's a photo of a stainless Freedom Arms / and a Nickel model 27-2 S&W... http://thefiringline.com/forums/atta...2&d=1336585674 the Freedom Arms is new ( only polished once this week ) ...the Model 27-2 has been polished many, many times...( both still look great ) and get shot a lot...

May 16, 2012, 05:48 PM	#4
zippy13 Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2008 Location: SoCal Posts: 6,442	I'm another Flitz fan.

May 16, 2012, 06:29 PM	#5
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	Here's a secret for you..... ALL metal polishes are abrasive. That's what metal polish is. The abrasive may be very fine and the maker may not state that their's is abrasive but they all are. Every time you use a metal polish on nickel it abrades off a thin layer of the nickel. Rub a little too hard, use a more aggressive polish, or use too often and you'll abrade the nickel right down to the steel. Used only once in a while and when absolutely necessary and used very gently you'll do a lot less damage. A possibly better option is to use a NON-Automotive wax like Renaissance Hard Carnuba or Johnson's Paste wax will keep it shiny without damage.

May 16, 2012, 09:36 PM	#6
shortwave Senior Member Join Date: December 17, 2007 Location: SOUTHEAST, OHIO Posts: 5,970	^^^+1^^^ Renaissance Hard Carnuba is pricey but well worth the $.

May 17, 2012, 07:42 AM	#8
drail Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2008 Posts: 3,150	"All polishes are abrasive". Absolute truth.

May 17, 2012, 02:36 PM	#12
BigJimP Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2005 Posts: 13,195	Wax isn't "polish" in the sense of doing any cleaning Aarond... wax won't remove some of the carbon that my revolvers get on the sides or the faces of their cyclinders...

May 17, 2012, 05:39 PM	#14
Flint Ridge Senior Member Join Date: December 22, 2009 Location: Flint Ridge, Missouri Posts: 225	I'd do the Flitz once to clean it up and followup routinely thereafter with Ren Wax as mentioned, it's really nice. Then Flitz once a decade or something like that

May 17, 2012, 06:53 PM	#15
BigJimP Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2005 Posts: 13,195	I like shiny too .... I had my Freedom Arms 4 3/4" and my Nickel mod 27 4" at the range this afternoon ....( put 6 boxes thru them combined - with some tactical drills on the model 27 ..and some fun with the single action Freedom Arms) ....and I'm heading back in a few minutes to put at least 2 more boxes thru the Freedom Arms ( both .357 mag ) ....and I just cleaned and polished both of them at my desk in my office in the last half hour .....( I closed the door - told my secretary to hold my calls ) ... I hate to drag around dirty - crummy looking guns...

May 18, 2012, 02:35 PM	#17
buckhorn Senior Member Join Date: May 11, 2012 Location: mid michigan Posts: 196	shiny gun The only thing I've found, at least around here, is flitz cloths followed by scrubbing the cylinder face with a plastic pot scrubber. Then I floow up with wd-40 rag, and then some carnuba wax. I make sure surface is clean before wax. But getting front of cylinders on stainless or nickle guns require Flitz. Believe me, I've wasted all kind's of money to get powder off stainless guns, bit Flitz works the best for me.

May 18, 2012, 03:03 PM	#18
buckhorn Senior Member Join Date: May 11, 2012 Location: mid michigan Posts: 196	shiny gun I forgot to add in my last post that I've used polishing compound {not rubbing compound] to clean the flutes on my stainless gun occasionally when it gets bad. DO you think it's hurting my gun? It sure shines when I'm done but I don't know the results in the future. For reference, It's an old model vaquero with polished stainless finsih. Also a taurus nickel or chrome plated revolver. I inherited it so I'm not sure what finish it has. Last edited by buckhorn; May 18, 2012 at 03:10 PM.

May 18, 2012, 03:13 PM	#19
DividedWeFall Junior Member Join Date: May 17, 2012 Posts: 10	I have a 20yrd old Nickel plated PT99AF and it was really bad. It had stains in it and was as flat and dull as 180 grit sandpaper. I had never polished it. Just light lubricant. Polished it with Noxon 7 last weekend and it looks new again. I think Flitz and Noxon are the same company and almost (if not) the same product. Not sure.

May 18, 2012, 06:01 PM	#20
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	Buckhorn: As long as it's a stainless gun and you're polishing the outside of the cylinder, (not the cylinder face) the only possible damage is that over time the abrasive might blur the sharp edges of the flutes and make them look odd. If you're using an abrasive on nickel you WILL wear the finish through sooner or later to bare steel.

May 18, 2012, 06:17 PM	#21
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,986	Farmalljon- Polishing is done by abrasion-period. Some polishes also contain ingredients that chemically remove metal-but I wouldn't use them on a gun. Etching does not give the same finish as polishing. You are the one who's wrong. Simichrome polish is probably the finest polish for use on a nickel plated gun, but I would advise using it once every 7-8 years. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

May 19, 2012, 01:46 PM	#23
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,986	Then you are electrolytically removing the top layer of metal, right? __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

May 19, 2012, 02:29 PM	#24
animal Senior Member Join Date: April 28, 2000 Location: Mississippi Posts: 705	First definition I saw .. polish - to make smooth and glossy, especially by rubbing or friction You’re both right. but the dictionary’s wrong, since friction has little to do with it…. BillDeShivs might be "especially" right, but only if the rubbing includes abrading... and if the elements of second half of the definition are separable... if not separable, "rubbing" gets thrown out too. And "smooth" … does this include the base metal, or does the smoothing only refer to removing the microscopic roughness of the oxidized portion of the metal. Generally, electrolytic methods only remove the oxidation, and do not "smooth" the base metal... this could go on for awhile ... but it's silly … Are you guys Polish lawyers ? __________________ Keep smiling ... it'll just make 'em wonder what you're up to...