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November 14, 2010, 09:55 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: June 25, 2008
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 502
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Hammer spring ruger mark what ever
Changing the hammer spring in a ruger 22 auto is a real female dog to do. Does some one have a jig or tool or technique to make this a little less painfull
bb Last edited by Buzzard Bait; November 14, 2010 at 10:17 AM. |
November 14, 2010, 06:10 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: March 17, 1999
Posts: 24,383
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I agree getting that mainspring housing assembly back together is a pain, but why would you have to? I have never seen a Ruger .22 auto hammer spring weaken and the mainspring housing assembly is supposed to be a permanent assembly.
To get the spring plunger, spring and detent ball back in, you have to grip the bottom of the latch in the side of the vise jaw, long side up, then push the other parts in over it with the back of the latch in its slot in the back of the housing. It is not easy, and you need to have some means of catching parts if they fly. It is easier if you have someone else with a punch ready to put it in the lower pin hole when they line up. I only ever had to reassemble one and that was because the owner decided to take everything apart for the fun of it, then couldn't get things back together. That guy was a real PITA, even though I made money off him. Jim |
November 15, 2010, 12:17 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: June 25, 2008
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Well
Well your right the hammer spring will probably out live me. I took it apart once as part of a complete cleaning after a few days out in the rain. ( didn't need it, it was still dry and clean inside). Now I'm interested in shortening the lock time I have the light weight hammer and was thinking I could get a extra strength spring. I have now looked around and It looks like wolf has reduced power springs but I have not seen any extra power springs so I may leave it as is.
bb |
November 16, 2010, 09:41 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: February 2, 2008
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The spring that Ruger put in there IS extra strength. Trust me. I have changed them but it's not much fun and as stated there is not really any point unless it's broken or rusted up. Just shoot that thing til your arm falls off. The lock time is not that bad in my opinion. What they do all need is removal of the creep. My experience with Ruger Mark whatever trigger work is if you remove all the creep the thumb safety either no longer works at all or just barely. I have so far managed to get two of them down to 1.5 lb. pull with no creep and the safeties had to be reworked quite a bit. They are incredibly good pistols for the price.
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November 17, 2010, 08:32 AM | #5 |
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It is a pain and I really not recommend it.
CEW
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Republic Arms and Armaments 07 1-502-231-1118 Machine Shop and Finishing Services to the trade and public |
November 17, 2010, 09:09 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: February 2, 2008
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Really fun project if you get really bored some weekend. Wear eye protection.
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November 18, 2010, 04:33 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: March 17, 1999
Posts: 24,383
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Not really pertinent, but IMHO 1.5 pounds is far too light. The Ruger has no half-cock notch and it does have a tendency to jar off if the pull is too light, resulting in a magazine being emptied rather rapidly and the gun ending up pointing in an unpredictable direction.
Jim |
November 18, 2010, 08:36 PM | #8 |
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Well, I certainly agree with your assessment of the possible dangers implicit with triggers on that level, but in about 17 years of shooting these guns they have never so much as even doubled one time. I also would never let anyone else handle them. No one. I no longer shoot at public ranges. I have been doing trigger work on competition only pistols for quite a long time. But your warning is valid. I have seen a lot of 1911s go full auto (not my work).
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