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August 2, 2018, 07:04 PM | #26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 24, 2012
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 4,594
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I wouldn't change the barrel... Unless it just doesn't shoot well. My Colt is very accurate, and I hear the same from others. Colt barrels are above average for accuracy. With average being 2moa give or take from a basic AR barrel in my eyes.
We are a bit spoiled for choices of accurate AR barrels though. 1-1.5moa with decent ammo is easy to achieve for $150-200 now. |
August 3, 2018, 08:29 AM | #27 |
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Join Date: November 25, 2011
Location: Northern KY
Posts: 47
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By all means upgrade but keep the Colt and don't be surprised if the Colt is your favorite of the 2.
I've developed a personal rule that I don't sell Colt LE6920's or Glock 19's anymore, I can always find a use for one. |
August 3, 2018, 09:20 AM | #28 |
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Join Date: January 5, 2012
Posts: 126
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I'm pleased with the barrel and won't be changing it out until the groups start opening up, which I imagine will be a long time and a lot of ammo. This carbine has laser-like accuracy, and I'm not the greatest shooter in the world by any means.
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August 4, 2018, 06:33 PM | #29 | |
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Join Date: June 22, 2017
Posts: 1,011
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Quote:
If this is a question of whether you should upgrade because you don't have the "toppest" of the line rifle, then Yes, you must by all means get the most expensive, most luxurious rifle you can afford - the guys at the range are judging you based on whether or not your rifle is "better" than theirs. If the question is function of the rifle, it seems to me you made the case in your original post that you have an excellent rifle and should keep it and get even more familiar with it. |
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August 6, 2018, 08:56 AM | #30 | |
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Join Date: January 5, 2012
Posts: 126
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Quote:
I just want the main rifle I'd go for to have the longest service life practicable, thus the concern over mid length gas systems and cold hammer forged barrels. As far as cold hammer forged barrels, I have now seen some button rifled barrels last past 20k rounds with acceptable accuracy so that's enough for me. I'm not necessarily convinced that mid length is definitely "better", either. While I have only shot 5.56 pressure ammo or properly loaded .223, I'd like the option to be able to shoot potentially way underpowered ammo if necessary, and have discovered some instances amounting to anecdotal evidence that mid length may not cycle junk ammo with as much reliability as carbine length. |
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August 6, 2018, 09:54 AM | #31 |
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Join Date: December 13, 2001
Location: U.S.A.
Posts: 1,183
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My "upgrade" for my 6920 was to get an additional 6720-------for me, lighter is always better.
__________________
I take the leech that's bleeding me Can't stop to save my soul I take the leash that's leading me -------Metallica |
August 6, 2018, 07:39 PM | #32 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 24, 2012
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 4,594
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As a rule... Midlength is generally better in a 16in barrel. As it does reduce the stresses in the system. But a properly gassed carbine length system isn't complete crap either.
If it is ejecting directly to the side or slightly to the rear, then you should be fine as far as being properly gassed. If you are concerned, run an H2 buffer in it. It will slow down the action cycle speed a small amount and add a slightly longer delay before the bolt unlocks. Just test the rifle to ensure full reliability with the new buffer and you should be good to go. Small parts are easy to replace as well. It's a good idea to keep a few spares around anyway Buy a few extra extractors with springs and keep them around. Replace the extractor every 5000 rounds for peace of mind. Buy a spare bolt and keep it around just in case of a bolt lug failure. A quality HPI and MPI 158 carpenter steel bolt can be had for around $60 online from reputable sources. Have a few sets of gas rings on hand, they eventually wear out. Same with the buffer spring... Replacing it after 5000rds for optimal performance. Have a spare firing pin or two, and several firing pin retaining pins. Those retaining pins take some abuse over time and can deformed and eventually break. And if it does, it will completely jam up the action. It's not an easy in field fix, as the pieces tend to wedge between the carrier and the receiver wall. I replace Mine when they start looking a bit beat up. Every few thousand rounds or so. Those are all of the parts most likely to break, it doesn't happen often on a quality made rifle like your Colt, bit it can happen. |
August 7, 2018, 11:00 AM | #33 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 24, 2012
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 4,594
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A thought I had on the proper gassing of your Colt.
You want to check the ejection pattern with both 5.56 and 223 ammo. If 223 is ejecting straight to the side, then 5.56 will be over gassed and eject forward. If you have 5.56 ejecting straight to the side, or slightly to the rear, 223 will eject a little more rearward. Optimal ejection is to around 4-430oclock with 5.56 spec ammo. If at that ejection pattern, 223 stays inside 5oclock, then you should be good to go. Your preferred ammo will dictate how you want the rifle gassed though. As when the rifle gets dirty it can slow down the action speed, and if 223 is on the low end of properly gassed, it will experience cycling issues sooner. But we are talking after hundreds of rounds or more before that happens though. |
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