Ruger 10-22 Trigger Job

Steve Koski · October 23, 1998, 01:44 PM

I've got the standard crappy trigger on my 10-22 and I'd like to improve it. I bought a new stock hammer (in case my dinking around doesn't come out right). I'm going to try and make the sear notch shallower and remove some material around the ball end (of the hammer). I'm going to try not to change the angle leading into the sear notch.

If you have done a job like this and have any suggestions I would love to hear them.

George Stringer · October 23, 1998, 11:23 PM

Before you begin removing material, try polishing the sides of the parts and any adjacent areas that they may be rubbing against. The object here is an attempt at smoothing the trigger pull by removing any burrs or rough spots without actually touching the engagement areas. These should be left to a competent gunsmith. George

Roy · October 24, 1998, 05:57 PM

Try Action Magic it is sold by brownells. You put it on with a Q Tip and dry it with a hair dryer. It is made of moly coat. I have not used it yet but I have heard great things and it is cheap. All it does is slick things up but it reduces felt pull and creap.

I am planning on using it on my 10-22 I will let you know how it works.

Steve Koski · October 27, 1998, 02:17 PM

George,

I appreciate your concern for my safety. I will polish up the sides of the hammer and sear and their potential contact points. I bought the spare hammer in case I screw up. I also plan on testing the gun for safety after doing the work by... Taking it to the range and test fire it. I'm also going to load a case into the chamber and briskly strike the butt with a rubber mallet to try and get the hammer to fall (with the safety off). If it falls then out comes the modified hammer. If I can figure out a way to strike the gun from the front end I'll do that too.

I'm not a total neophyte to gunsmithing. I have stripped most of my guns down to their fundamental parts and reassembled them. This will be my second trigger job wherein I will remove material. My first was a very successful job on a MAK 90.

I'd really like some advice from you if you've done trigger work on a 10-22. Thanks.

George Stringer · October 28, 1998, 08:43 AM

Steve, I've done several 10/22s. Usually folks have got it in their head that they need "custom" parts like Volquartsen or their trigger won't be any good. The best advise I can give is the same I would give on any trigger work. Use good stones, go slow and don't change any angles. There aren't any tricks to this kind of work. Patience is the key. George

Steve Koski · October 28, 1998, 02:22 PM

Thanks George. I'll take it slow and re-assemble periodically for testing.

October 23, 1998, 01:44 PM	#1
Steve Koski Member Join Date: October 19, 1998 Location: Spanish Fork UT, USA Posts: 86	I've got the standard crappy trigger on my 10-22 and I'd like to improve it. I bought a new stock hammer (in case my dinking around doesn't come out right). I'm going to try and make the sear notch shallower and remove some material around the ball end (of the hammer). I'm going to try not to change the angle leading into the sear notch. If you have done a job like this and have any suggestions I would love to hear them.

October 23, 1998, 11:23 PM	#2
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Before you begin removing material, try polishing the sides of the parts and any adjacent areas that they may be rubbing against. The object here is an attempt at smoothing the trigger pull by removing any burrs or rough spots without actually touching the engagement areas. These should be left to a competent gunsmith. George

October 24, 1998, 05:57 PM	#3
Roy Junior Member Join Date: October 15, 1998 Location: Utah, USA Posts: 11	Try Action Magic it is sold by brownells. You put it on with a Q Tip and dry it with a hair dryer. It is made of moly coat. I have not used it yet but I have heard great things and it is cheap. All it does is slick things up but it reduces felt pull and creap. I am planning on using it on my 10-22 I will let you know how it works.

October 27, 1998, 02:17 PM	#4
Steve Koski Member Join Date: October 19, 1998 Location: Spanish Fork UT, USA Posts: 86	George, I appreciate your concern for my safety. I will polish up the sides of the hammer and sear and their potential contact points. I bought the spare hammer in case I screw up. I also plan on testing the gun for safety after doing the work by... Taking it to the range and test fire it. I'm also going to load a case into the chamber and briskly strike the butt with a rubber mallet to try and get the hammer to fall (with the safety off). If it falls then out comes the modified hammer. If I can figure out a way to strike the gun from the front end I'll do that too. I'm not a total neophyte to gunsmithing. I have stripped most of my guns down to their fundamental parts and reassembled them. This will be my second trigger job wherein I will remove material. My first was a very successful job on a MAK 90. I'd really like some advice from you if you've done trigger work on a 10-22. Thanks.

October 28, 1998, 08:43 AM	#5
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Steve, I've done several 10/22s. Usually folks have got it in their head that they need "custom" parts like Volquartsen or their trigger won't be any good. The best advise I can give is the same I would give on any trigger work. Use good stones, go slow and don't change any angles. There aren't any tricks to this kind of work. Patience is the key. George

October 28, 1998, 02:22 PM	#6
Steve Koski Member Join Date: October 19, 1998 Location: Spanish Fork UT, USA Posts: 86	Thanks George. I'll take it slow and re-assemble periodically for testing.