The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Skunkworks > Gear and Accessories

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old May 29, 2007, 06:26 PM   #76
Senior Member
Join Date: November 28, 2005
Location: St. Charles, MO
Posts: 496
If there's anything specific you would like to know, let me know.

These safes are a private label sold through one of my commercial safe distributors. He had these safes built to his specs, and imports them himself. They are supposed to be sold only to professional safe companies, but I've seen a few pop up at other retailers from time to time.

They are no frills safes. He doesn't have fancy paint or interiors, but uses the money he saves on better construction. All of the safes have 10 gauge bodies, and the H series have 1/4" doors. They have a gear driven boltwork that locks them on 3 or 4 sides, external hinges, convertible interiors, and 30 to 60 minute fire ratings.

For the money, they're a good safe. I wouldn't sell them if they weren't.
a1abdj is offline  
Old May 31, 2007, 09:45 PM   #77
Senior Member
Join Date: August 16, 2004
Posts: 516
If I may ask, what were the in-bound freight, local delivery, and set-up expenses?


saltydog452 is offline  
Old June 1, 2007, 12:26 AM   #78
Senior Member
Join Date: April 11, 2006
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 3,403
Buying a safe is indeed preplexing. So many choices, so many considerations. I went with a Stack-On, not because I think it's all that great (because I don't), but logistically it was the biggest one I could carry up into the upstairs of my house. I really didn't want one out in the garage, which was my only real alternative. It was either that or move into a single-story house, and that's not in the budget right now.

$1200 gives you lots of options, and if you can find one, once in a while a second-hand Diebold industrial safe comes up, and they're tanks. They weigh a ton (literally) and no need to worry about bolting them to anything.

Take your time and figure out what the best solution is for you. Much to think about. Good luck!
skeeter1 is offline  
Old June 4, 2007, 07:00 PM   #79
Join Date: September 10, 2002
Posts: 61
a safe for my rifles and whatnot. I only have afew
If you only have a few guns, you could buy more guns first, and then buy a big safe later.
.45&TKD is offline  
Old June 4, 2007, 10:56 PM   #80
Senior Member
Join Date: May 17, 2007
Location: great white north
Posts: 316
I also went with the 14 gun sentry like eghad... I'd love a 1000lb safe but that will have to wait for the next house.
odsixer is offline  
Old June 6, 2007, 09:01 AM   #81
Join Date: January 14, 2007
Posts: 61
Awesome Thread. I don't have a safe yet, but I have learned a lot. Thank you all knowling Safe Gods.
Randy W.
St. Louis, MO
wilkerr1 is offline  
Old June 6, 2007, 11:22 PM   #82
Join Date: March 7, 2007
Posts: 39
The Key...

Always is best done in layers....a safe should only be one component of an overall security plan. In fact....if someone should somehow be incredibly good or lucky enough just to get standing in front of my safe...they get maybe 10 to 15 minutes max time to work.

As for flood protection...well I don't have much to offer for suggestions there...other than move and/or elevate the safe as much as you can. Depending on the situation a few inches of elevation could make a big difference.

As for fire protection... just having any safe that has some fire protection designed into it gets you a big step ahead of keeping them on the living room floor. Do a little the best you can afford based on that research and move on to living your life. I don't believe a lot of the hooey in this thread...if there was such a huge gap between what a safe is advertised to do and what it can actually some here have claimed...our commercial system,commercial law, and the marketplace would flush that out at some point. I also don't take everything an advertiser takes at face value. The truth is usually some where in between.

As for rust proofing....first point is that every time you open your safe equilibrium is established between the air in the safe and the ambient air. So don't open it on humid days...just kidding. The fire protecting materials and other components are not infinite moisture sources that continuously disperse moisture into the internal air of a closed safe. Most of the moisture in the materials is encapsulated and does not easily that when a fire happens the moisture is released thus providing protection. If it were not encapsulated the moisture would evaporate fairly quickly and offer no threat to rusting. So again this is not a point to anguish over. Like security, rust prevention is best done as a multilayered program. Use some sort of dessicant in the safe...or other moisture reducing method...or two...and check and clean your firearms periodically..and be done with it and move on with life.

There's my two cents....FWIW.
piste is offline  

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:42 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2018 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent:
Contact Us
Page generated in 0.07058 seconds with 10 queries