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Old October 7, 2017, 09:30 PM   #1
rifleman0311
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Barrel swaps on an AR

How long of a process is it to swap barrels on an AR?

Specifically, if I wanted a 300 bo in the most cost effective way, is it realistic to buy a barrel and swap it out occcassionaly when I wanted to shoot 223/556 or 300bo? Or should I drop the cash on a complete upper? I'm interested in learning how just don't know if people get an upper or swap barrels depending on what they want to shoot that day. Thank you
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Old October 7, 2017, 09:48 PM   #2
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Ive changed countless barrels, it is not hard at all. Youtube will show detailed directions.

That said, go ahead and get a dedicated upper for the caliber swap.
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Old October 7, 2017, 10:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
rifleman0311 asked:
Or should I drop the cash on a complete upper?
Complete upper.

It gives you the flexibility of one-minute caliber changes which having to do barrel swaps does not. It also saves you having to buy jigs fixtures and guages to facilitate the barrrel removal and replacement process.

And remember, unless you're going to move the flash hider, gas block and barrel nut and replace the crush washer each time you do a barrel swap, you're going to need to buy those for the new barrel so you're already well on your way to the cost of a complete upper.
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Old October 7, 2017, 11:57 PM   #4
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Upper. Then another lower so you have two complete rifles. Repeat as necessary.
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Old October 8, 2017, 12:25 AM   #5
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To answer your question, changing barrels on an AR is not difficult at all. I could probably do it in 20 minutes.

But, it's not practical to do it over and over to switch calibers. Buy a new upper.
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Old October 8, 2017, 04:39 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turtlehead
Upper. Then another lower so you have two complete rifles. Repeat as necessary.
^This is how it usually works.
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Old October 8, 2017, 06:30 AM   #7
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My opinion as a casual AR owner/shooter.

Typically an upper will cost as much as a complete rifle or very darn close. Like sales tax close. Endless hours shopping and waiting on a sale, you might do better. If a whole gun is 500 the upper might be 400 and the lower is 150. Buying piecemeal is almost always more. My perusal of the market.

The advantage in buying an upper only, is where you have done serous custom work on the lower, trigger job and other things to fit the gun up prefect. save a lot of duplicate expense. If you just have a basic plastic wonder, might as well buy a complete gun. Not worth it.

The other advantage is when you have something special in mind for the upper. If you want special, then probably not looking for a low price as much as the unique feature not found in most complete guns. Or that special feature might be over priced from a single builder.

Swapping a barrel is not a quick 20 minute job for typical person like me. It is easy enough (once learned) but enough of a big deal that nobody swaps barrels back and forth as a routine. You change a barrel and leave it. Its not a switch barrel system any more than a Remington 700 or Savage 110 which I also can do with about the same effort. Nobody swaps barrels on a Remington 700 for an afternoon shoot. In all cases, tools are needed and that is another learning curve.

Last edited by fourbore; October 8, 2017 at 06:41 AM.
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Old October 8, 2017, 07:08 AM   #8
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You can probably get a 300 bo upper from PSA for $320 with bcg.

A barrel is probably $200,but changeover for me is a ~2 hr job and requires sighting in again. In addition, the upper threads will be ruined in an accident most likely in less the 5 changeovers....the guns are not meant to be fully disassembled regularly.

I would buy a complete upper.
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Old October 8, 2017, 09:44 AM   #9
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IF.........you have a Geissele rail on the gun, you could simply unscrew the barrel leaving the gas tube, and gas block in place and simply pull out the barrel and put in another one that also already has the gas block and gas tube on it. And, you wouldn't need to remove an optic. You also could know the dope for your optic so when you switched calibers, you knew exactly how to adjust the optic for a new zero instead of trial and error.

That all being said, this is like owning two vehicles and only having one battery. You can switch out the battery when you want to drive the other vehicle. It isn't hard and it wouldn't take a long time. But it would get old real fast. After you did it a couple times you would go to Walmart and buy a second battery.

For those of you still using a barrel nut from the 1960s. Here is a video that shows a guy putting together an upper using a Geissele rail. It is SO much easier than trying to line up the barrel nut with the gas tube. I have no idea why anyone still uses the old style barrel nuts. This video also is in almost real time so you can see how long this would take to do a barrel swap. The video is less than six minutes long. Granted, he leaves the part about installing the gas block and the gas tube, which would take maybe five minutes, and if you had two barrels with the gas block and gas tube on them already, you can see that it would take less than 20 minutes. Far less than 20 minutes. Also, in the opening shot of the video, you can see the barrel sitting there with the gas block and gas tube already installed just like in the example I used above.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mfBZ8BVfhw
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You know the rest. In the books you have read
How the British Regulars fired and fled,
How the farmers gave them ball for ball,
From behind each fence and farmyard wall,
Chasing the redcoats down the lane,
Then crossing the fields to emerge again
Under the trees at the turn of the road,
And only pausing to fire and load.

Last edited by 444; October 8, 2017 at 09:51 AM.
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Old October 8, 2017, 09:53 AM   #10
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Good news is AR stuff is priced down right now.. so if you're gonna buy now is the time.

Im also wondering what black Friday will bring.

I remember years ago when I was mainly collecting handguns I was debating AK vs AR and the wasr10 AK's (which was considered bottom of the barrel) was like 400 bucks and the cheapest AR I could find was like 600.

Now you can find AR's as cheap as about 350 and you can build one for slightly less Or just a nicer one for about the same price.

So if you want AR stuff NOW's the time.


I went from 2 builds to a 3rd, to wait a minute i've got enough spare parts for a 4th I might as well build another.

and Primary Arms often has adnerson lowers for 30 bucks on sale.. you can't beat that with a stick.
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Old October 8, 2017, 02:17 PM   #11
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It's not hard to switch barrels. Takes time, effort and the right tools. Once I get a barrel dialed in with the accuracy I'm looking for, the last thing I would is mess with it. Build the upper or buy a complete upper.
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Old October 8, 2017, 02:20 PM   #12
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Sure... you can get a complete rifle for $450 right now, but that is a basic setup, and I have not seen 300blk rifles for that.


Looking around on Palmetto State, Primary Arms, Brownells, and Midway, to name a few... You should be able to find a complete 300blk upper that suits your needs and budget. $300ish is an average right now.

Assembling an upper will likely cost more, but you get to pick the parts used. Which will in all likelihood, be better than the cheap uppers you can find.


And there are several handguards that use barrel nut and attachment systems that don't require indexing... makes the job very simple.

Last edited by marine6680; October 8, 2017 at 02:26 PM.
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Old October 8, 2017, 03:10 PM   #13
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Most of the time it's not too hard, but I've come across a couple that were real PITA to get apart, sometimes the barrel had to be jammed into the receiver or the barrel nut was torqued well over the recommended ftlbs in order to get gas tube holes to line up. Threading may have been galled--or possibly even some kind of locking compound was used. Funny you mention it--I'm about to tear apart a PA10 upper.
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Old October 8, 2017, 04:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marine6680 View Post
Sure... you can get a complete rifle for $450 right now, but that is a basic setup, and I have not seen 300blk rifles for that.
What do you mean "basic" you mean a a2 setup?
Or you talking barrel and trigger? of course you're not gonna get match barrels and target triggers for that price.

But I've seen m-lok/keymod uppers going for sub 200, 300blk doesn't really seem to be anymore expensive.

anderson lower 30
lpk 30
apoc has a decent tube/stock kit for 30
so there's your lower for around 100

toolcraft nitride bcg's seem them for 65 shipped couple weeks ago

standard charging handle $10-11

say 150-200 for the upper. you're right around 317-367, add sights/optics and you're ready to fire.
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Old October 8, 2017, 05:59 PM   #15
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Yes... A2, plastic Gi handguards... stuff like that. Nothing wrong with that, but it isn't what some people want. You have to know what you are getting for the price.

Most places are focusing on 5.56 right now, so I see more of those in stock. 300blk uppers are not too expensive, when they are in stock, at places like PSA.

Still haven't seen a complete rifle at the $450 price point that was 300blk.
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Old October 8, 2017, 06:31 PM   #16
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Ya looks like you might be right.
I see lot of 300 blk deals on gun.deals but almost all of them are for pistol length (<16) Uppers.

I like what 300 blk does on paper, I'd like to get one but not until I get into reloading.
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Old October 8, 2017, 07:26 PM   #17
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I am building a dedicated 22 LR right now. I need the 22 LR conversion and an optic yet and have about $175 invested so far. Prices are GOOD right now.
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Old October 8, 2017, 08:38 PM   #18
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You don't have to buy new. There are a lot of used parts out there, often dirt cheap. (Complete uppers, too.)

One of my brothers recently built a complete 6.8 SPC for under $350. Most of that cost was the barrel, the butt stock, and magazines. The rest of it was clearance or close-out parts, or used parts from local classified ads.
Coming up on about two years ago, I built a .223 upper for $90. Used parts, free parts, and a borrowed BCG that normally belongs to the other upper for the lower used. If I had bought everything new, it easily would have been $250 worth of parts wrapped around a $11 barrel.
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Old October 9, 2017, 04:20 AM   #19
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444 I just watched that video . Although I do like the rail . I found it odd the guy installed the gas tube after the gas block was installed . Have I been doing it wrong all these years ? I install the gas tube on the gas block first then set aside . I then install the barrel on the upper then install the gas block with gas tube already on it .

In what order do you all do it ?

Oh sorry OP , buy the complete upper .
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Old October 9, 2017, 07:12 AM   #20
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Most of the respondents are on the money building a cheap upper, however, I choose to use quality parts when building a rifle. The 300 Blackout is quite a versatile cartridge if you are into hand loading, I would not suggest using it if not. I load only supersonic and have taken animals close to 400 # with it at distances 100 yds or less.
Now to change a barrel with the proper tools on hand ( a bit of an expense) I change everything out in about thirty minutes, barrel, gasblock and tube, muzzle device and rail. It does not require rocket science but tools and care are paramount for a proper change. Unless this was a one time change I too would advocate building a second upper or better yet rifle and build it exactly the way you want it.
I have over three dozen AR’s in the racks and often will decide to modify one extensively, I lay out the new rifle on the bench so I know exactly what I will have when done and then clean and place old parts in their proper bins as I go. This keeps everything sanitary and expensive parts are not lost or ruined. Some barrel nuts require timing, some with shims, many with their own wrenches, some included, some extra cost. Changing a barrel properly is not a wam-bam operation.
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Old October 9, 2017, 07:12 AM   #21
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Tube in the gas block first for me.
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Old October 9, 2017, 08:06 AM   #22
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If you are starting with a A2 fixed front sight barrel--despite the videos that show them popping easily off--I've never found one that did from a major manufacturer, so plan some time with that if those pins don't just come out without a fight. Even then the sight may have been "phosphated" to the barrel so it may take some banging (and cursing) to get it to release.
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Old October 9, 2017, 09:30 AM   #23
444
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"444 I just watched that video . Although I do like the rail . I found it odd the guy installed the gas tube after the gas block was installed ."

Well..........the video doesn't really show him installing the gas tube, so I don't know how he did it.
I have always installed the gas tube on the gas block and then slid the gas block over the barrel with the tube on it. You want to be able to slightly adjust the position of the gas block/gas tube to make sure it is moving freely in the bolt carrier and not binding.

Again, that part of the assembly is left out of the video, but I suspect this is the way he did it because of the fact that it is shown that way in the opening of the video. I am guessing he torqued the barrel nut and then slid the gas block off the barrel, pinned the gas tube and then put it back on. But, I don't really know.
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You know the rest. In the books you have read
How the British Regulars fired and fled,
How the farmers gave them ball for ball,
From behind each fence and farmyard wall,
Chasing the redcoats down the lane,
Then crossing the fields to emerge again
Under the trees at the turn of the road,
And only pausing to fire and load.
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Old October 10, 2017, 07:34 PM   #24
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From a practical standpoint, it dosent take long or very hard at all. However from a safety standpoint I would spend a little more and get a dedicated upper (assembled uppers are ~$80).

Then you'll want to make a bunch more uppers after you see how easy/fun it is.
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Old October 10, 2017, 09:15 PM   #25
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Palmetto armory has Nitride BCG's for 60 shipped right now.
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