6.5 Creedmoor Help

[ninosdemente]

I have been in search for a 6.5 Creedmoor bolt action but was halted for a good number of months. Now I am back in the market for one. I went to Cabela's site as it is closer to me vs buying online elsewhere. Not much local stores and don't have much options so I don't go to them and are more expensive than Cabela's. Have compared on items that I would buy only.

On the site I found this on sale.... https://www.cabelas.com/product/shoo...5.uts?slotId=1

Am looking for heavy long barrel and threaded, but this one is not threaded. I do have a Savage 12FV in 223, but don't like the top load. So I wouldn't get one soon again.

With the 6.5 Creedmoor am looking to go far on range as I'm very, very slowly making progress on getting "better". lol. At the moment, the farthest distance at the range I go to is 200 yds and only allow paper targets.

I do load my own, not the best at it yet but have successfully loaded 223 and 30-06.

At time of searching I was looking for a RPR style rifle, but now, really not so sure. The other I had looked at that was within acceptable spending money was a Howa. Perhaps, this is part of the reason why I stopped looking for one, other than the price. Before I was willing to spend that much money, but now, not so much.

The 12Fv I had, was planning on getting a RPR style stock, too much, then was planning on getting a Boyd's stock but have not gotten to that yet.

Any help, advice, suggestion or slap of reality will gladly be appreciated.

[ninosdemente]

On a side note, I don't own much and have not shot cheap to expensive rifles to tell the difference in accuracy or feel, etc. Just know what I have which is of course not great references.

[10-96]

Staying with the Savage would have been a good option. With either Savage or Remington, doing a barrel swap (as time and $ permit) is straight forward and quite easy. The Remingtons can be done with a barrel nut the same as Savage (search Remage). And, the stocks, options, and accessories for both are phenomenal. The last one I did was a former Savage Hog Hunter .308. It ended up with a customers thumbhole flat bottomed stock and a 29" 3-groove 1-10 twist Pac-Nor barrel. He does quite well with it out to 1200yrds so far out at Whittington Center, NM.

[jmr40]

The 6.5 CM uses very aerodynamic bullets in order to retain velocity down range. As a result muzzle velocity is less important. A 6.5 with a 20" barrel will retain enough velocity to be stable well over 1000 yards. A 308 on the other hand needs a 26" barrel to remain stable out to 1000 yards and it won't do it with shorter barrels, nor remain stable much beyond 1000 regardless of barrel length.

Not cheap, but the most accuracy you can buy for the dollar. Street price in blue is about $900, SS is about $1000. The 6.5 is available in 20 and 24" lengths. The barrels are threaded and it comes with a 10 round DBM.

The 20" barrels are more common and will still keep you in the game beyond 1000 yards with a 6.5. The 24" barrel only helps once you get well past 1000.

https://www.tikka.fi/rifles/tikka-t3...tactical-rifle

https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/...ords=Tikka+Ctr

[std7mag]

Nino,
Have you looked at a Tikka CTR in 260 Rem?
They would be a good option also.
I can't rember if it was this forum, or another that i frequent. Someone had pick of 260 Rem bullet holes in some coins that were claimed to be made at 200 yards with a Tikka.

I manages to pick up a Savage 110 FP for the Mrs for $250.
Cabelas should also have the made for them Savage 10 FV.
Should be a 24" heavy barrel. Not sure it's threaded.

Good luck, let us know what you decided on.

Std7mag

[Bfglowkey]

Another option is the Rueger American Predator. You can get it in the old style rotart mags for 300-350. Threaded heavier contour ( not like the 12 FV but solid ) and the barrel actually is a near twin to the RPR barrels. The newer larger capacity AR mag using Predators are about 400. Out of the box they are proven shooters even with the less then ideal stock. A lot of DIY small mods can be made to it that save you money and get you shooting. Lots of aftermarket stock options are popping up to include chassis for them.
The 12 FV while not threaded can utilize a great Witt Machine clamp on muzzle device ( I have one on my 308 12 FV) and it is golden. Boyds has some great stocks and I think the Prairie Hunter model with the adjustable comb option is a very solid non chassis option that is well suited for long ranch shooting/bench work. The top feed is for sure a pain. There are modifications out there that allow it to convert to a mag feed though ( use some google-fu)

I am like you and enjoy finding the rough stuff and polishing it up slowly to shine. A final thought is to grab a barreled action from Brownells ( Howa 1500 ) They have a variety of options in the 6.5 Creed ranging from sporter non threaded to heavy threaded in all lengths. Pair it with a Onyx Chassis or the new Thumb-Hole AT ONE from Boyds and you have a very capable shooter on your hands. I say this cause I just built a Grendle Bolt build this way and I am having a grand time with it. The Creedmore is a very fun round to shoot/load for. PM me if you want to chat more and I can point you in the direction of some easy beginner loads that will get you started using commonly found powders/bullets/primers/brass. I love my 6.5 Creedmoor ( in the RPR model ) and it always makes an appearance at the range when I go.

[LineStretcher]

If I was on a limited budget but wanted to eventually own a 1000 yard rifle I would start with a basic Remington 700 ADL. As my shooting skill progressed I would eventually change the barrel and have the receiver blue printed and then put it all in a chassis.

Hot rodding a 700 is a lot like hot rodding a 350 Chevy. Everybody makes stuff for them so it's cheap to build one. With Remington's retooling the 700's are not as junky as they were just a few years ago so you're starting off with a decent rifle.

The other option but slightly more expensive is the Weatherby Vanguard/Howa 1500. They are gaining in popularity and we're starting to see barrels and tools for blue printing them from a few manufacturers. I just finished a .308 Vanguard that I got for 249.00 at Walmart. It is impressive now but it was quite a bit of work to get it there.

[std7mag]

Building your own, is fun to do and rewarding. Much like reloading.
But like reloading, don't fool yourself into thinking you'll save money.
You can however spread out the time in which you spend your money.
Buying an action is not cartridge specific. Rather it is a family of cartridges. For example you would have a short action with a bolt face diameter that would fit the 308 sized cartridges. These would include everything from 22-250 through 358 Win.
Or standard action which would handle anything based off the 30-06 case. Examples would be 25-06, 270, 280, 280AI, 06', 35 Whelen, etc...

Do bear in mind that building your own may involve some tool purchases. Barrel vise, action nut wrench (Savage), action wrench ( Remington), and you will definitely need headspace gages. ( these you can rent from several places) .

My "Mauser", started off with a used $250 Whitworth Mark X in 270 Win.
Bell & Carlson stock $250.
E.R. Shaw 1.5 contour, 24" polished, blued, 11 degree recessed crown in 284 Win. $272
EGW 20MOA one piece base $50
Vortex Viper low 30mm rings $50
Sightron STAC 4-20X50 scope $400.
I already had the barrel vise.
Action wrench. $50 ish
Rented headspace gages and finish reamer (4D Reamer Rentals) $50 includes shipping back.
Total cost to build $1,572

Would i do it again?

Heck yeah!!!

[Rimfire5]

Cabela's sells a 10T-SR in 6.5mm CM that has a detachable mag.
I bought one about a year ago to take the load off my 12 LRP in 6.5mm CM with a HS Precision Stock and a Precision Target Accu-trigger that came from the factory at 10 oz.

The 10T-SR shoots accurately and performs almost as well as the heavier 12 LRP but it has a standard Accu-Trigger that I keep set at 2 lbs. and an Accu-Stock with a standard detachable mag - not the cheap mags with the plastic external release that are on the 11 VTs.

It isn't as cheap as the 12 FV or the bargain Remington - I paid $550 - but it preforms well.

My last Remington 700 needed a new trigger and stock just to get it to shoot under 0.5 inches at 100 yards.

The Savages did better than that right out of the box.
Bargains aren't always real bargains.

[RC20]

I agree on the 10T. Dicks I think has a variant as well.

Pretty decent setup.

Savage and Cabellas were having some good sales on them as well, got em into the $400 area I believe. Worth keeping an eye out for.

[kraigwy]

After sending my wife to a long range Shooting School (Gunworks) where they had her shooting a 6.5 CM she decided she wanted one.
I bought her a Ruger Precision Rifle. It is a nice rifle super accurate, but heavy (for a hunting rifle).

While playing with her RPG in 6.5 CM I fell in love with the cartridge. I have plenty of other "target" rifles so to justify MY 6.5 CM I came up with the reasoning that I needed another (sic) light hunting rifle for antelope/deer.

I read good things about the Ruger American Predator so shopped around until I found one in 6.5 at just under $400.

I soon discovered it shot at good as the Wifes RPR, at less then 1/3 the price. Even at distance it can hold its own with the RPR.

I have shot several deer and antelope and it exceeded my expectations.

My next goal is shooting it at 1 mile. I dont mean a lucky 2 or of 10 hits, I mean constantly. So far I've made it to 1400 but still need a bit of work for a mile. I have no doubt the gun can do it. (Look at the YouTube videos), but its me learning to shoot the rifle.

Lots of fine 6.5 Rifles out there. The problem with the RAP is people think it shouldnt work because its a cheap rifle.

Everyone knows you have to spend thousands to have a long range rifle. Thats Ego talking. I have some pricy target rifles, good shooters. But I enjoy taking the cheap little RAP and showing it isnt the amount of money that makes the rifle. Ruger provided a poor mans precision rifle that can keep up with the big boys.

Even my wife likes shooting my RAP more then here RPS, though she still does better with her Model 70 in 243. But she made me buy her a RAP in 204, I also got one in 223, Shooting these other RAPs tell me that my 6.5 RAP isnt the exception, its the rule.

[std7mag]

Do please remember that there is no "magic" about the Creedmoor round vs any other 6.5mm cartridge.
The 120gr, or 140gr 6.5mm Target Master in the Creedmoor is the exact same 120gr or 140 gr Sierra Target Master in any other 6.5mm.
Be it the Creedmoor, Grendel, 260 Rem, 6.5mm Rem Mag, 6.5-284, 6.5-06, 264 Win Mag, 6.5-300 Weatherby.

No magic pixie powder makes the CM shoot any better, or worse that any other round.

[taylorce1]

The "magic" of the Creedmoor is cheap factory ammunition. For the shooter who doesn't reload this is the largest benefit. For a guy set up to reload it doesn't offer much advantage over some other cartridges.

[RC20]

Std7mag:

I have to disagree with that. Its special in that it has much lower recoil, its will do 1000 yards due to the BC and its got a wide hunting application (the only things in Norda America not in its wheel house would be Bison and Brown Bear )

Now that is true of any of the 6.5s, the CM just has a nice package in short action.

Its just a sweet spot caliber wise. And I am a huge 06 fan but I can see the appeal and I may get one eventually.

[std7mag]

How is the recoil any different than the 260 Rem, or 6.5X55, or 6.5X57?

Swede is becoming more popular here in Norde America. I can still find plenty of 260 Rem ammo. Even some Match.

Only place CM makes any difference is fitting/loading from an AR type magazine.
Does not apply to bench rest shooters, F Class.
Heck it really doesn't apply to most hunting applications or rifles.

Niche cartridge that advertising jumped on with both feet.
Same could be said for 338 LM.

[Bfglowkey]

RAP is a nice gem of a rifle I agree. I have a RAP and a RPR in 6mm and 6.5 respectively. The barrels are nearly Identical in contour/weight. But there is a very noticeable difference in shooting and I think that for their respective class of rifle they are the best value in their categories. RPR is truly no modifications needed, just slap a scope and get some DOPE on Hornady BLACK 140s and bingo bango 1K is easy. RAP requires some attention to the stock to ensure its seated properly and possibly opening up the channel so that when the barrel warms up it doesn't touch and cause some fliers. But yes its more then capable.

[ninosdemente]

Thanks guys for the replies. Really grateful. I have been looking online prior to posting here. I did come across the RAP at Cabela's site and a Thompson Center online which I saw for $274, plus ffl fees/applicable taxes.

To be honest the reason why I was interested in the Remington was its on sale and I have seen many parts/stocks/accessories for that model.
10-96, you mentioned stocks/accessories for save, can you provide a link to site? Thanks. Would like to change the 12FV to eliminate top load.

I did see the Savage 10T but more than what I want to spend at the moment ($600).

I was contemplating on getting a Howa barrel at Brownells and getting stock separate. But due to lack of knowledge, I don't know what is needed or if I do go this route if I would be in over my head. Also do know that I would spend more money this route but wouldn't mind getting that satisfaction of "building" my own and looking different then the rest.

[ninosdemente]

That being said, the Tikka would not be in my plans for a long time.

Having the lack of knowledge in this matter and probably from not searching enough, I thought that the longer the barrel the better. I was always looking at rifles that were between 24"-26" long barrels.

I have read that RAP/RPR barrels are similar online articles. Of course on forums have read responses they are nearly the same, are the same or vary a bit between them.

Probably may have to wait if I can get the Savage at a much lower price tag, but as mentioned the Remington is calling out my name. Lol.

Thanks a mil guys again.

[std7mag]

Nino,
Several companies make "bottom metal" for the Savage.
www.pacifictoolandgage.com
www.esarcoinc.com

[RC20]

How is the recoil any different than the 260 Rem, or 6.5X55, or 6.5X57?

They are all close. CM happens to be a somewhat better package but no magic.

Any of the 6.5s would be lovely. 6.5 CM or 260 due to ammo would be the better choices, then its what caliber is available and CM has that.

I can do Lapua if I want, but not everyone puts their own barrels on guns.

[RC20]

I was contemplating on getting a Howa barrel at Brownells and getting stock separate. But due to lack of knowledge, I don't know what is needed or if I do go this route if I would be in over my head. Also do know that I would spend more money this route but wouldn't mind getting that satisfaction of "building" my own and looking different then the rest.

Frankly that was my issue though money was available selling other guns.

I know its a relic for the purpose, but I wanted a target 30-06, that cartridge is just too much of family as well as nation history not to for me (others of course have their own thing)

So I bought a Savage action in a stock type I wanted and put a bull 06 barrel on it. It got me what I wanted (and love it, my favorite even though the stock is not a target one it works great) and a heavy barrel 06 is rare (Remington had one out not sure they still do)

Did the same with a 7.5 Swiss though the barrel cost twice that due to its odd nature.

So yes, doing your own barrels is great. Boyds stocks have good fits (or the laminated ones do) -

Learning to take the old barrel off is the hardest, you can look at U tube for the idea on the rest. PM me if you go that route and I can advise on tools. Its take about $100 for the Savage setup.

[raimius]

How often are you going to shoot past 600 yards?

Prior to 600, 6.5CM doesn't offer much over .308.
Also consider .223, if you are just punching paper.

[ninosdemente]

Raimus,

At the moment not soon. But did find a place that offers that distance. I still am learning but am better than when I first started. Part of reason why I don't go that far is because I am trying to get my kid to get better before eventually going past 200yds as well as myself. Being he is 11, don't want to give him a challenge, get frustrated and then doesn't want to go.

I do have .223 which have read can go far as well. Just want to get another rifle and have my mind set on that caliber. Just want to get another gun... which it all comes down to.

I have been wanting a .308 but in AR style. I am not much of a AR person, but I did get one in 5.56 as I wanted to get a 5.56 rifle. That I don't shoot as much but I finally got one though.

[RC20]

Further I have target shot is 300 meters.

We do have a 1000 yard range I hope to get some time on.

One aspect is getting to the target! Last time I took my bike to the 300 m range, much better.

[Wendyj]

These are shots from last year doing load development for the Tikka CTR in 260 stock from factory. Targets are dime sized. Scope was a 6.5x20x50 Vortex. It will do better now that I have chosen the load but my 6.5 shoots just as good if not better. Nightforce rings and 20 moa rail. It has been out to 1600 with my husband several times but he is way better shot than I am