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February 2, 2010, 07:07 PM | #1 |
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168 .308 mil-spec (Weidners)
I am wondering how well the 168 gr. HPBT(mil-spec) bullet from Weidners reloading supplies performs compared to a name brand of it's equal.
I shoot at a 100 yd range so long range is not what I am worried about. Now I pay @ $27 for 100 Hornady molys. Is the$94 worth 500 of these mil-specs. I know it depends on my ability to reload and the rifle but I'm looking for individual opinions from experience. |
February 2, 2010, 07:29 PM | #2 |
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I have no personal experience with them, but at 100 yards I can't imagine they could possibly be so "off" that it'd make much, if any, difference - you'd have to be insanely precise in your reloading before it'd matter, and if that was the case then you wouldn't be looking for a bargain deal on bullets to begin with. I've bought some mil surplus .22's before, not sure if it was Widner's or elsewhere, and so far they shoot just fine - they're not as good as my MatchKings, but I'm also not worrying about the tolerances quite as much on them, either.
If you're used to using bullets that are all uniform in weight and size, however (as in, within a tenth of a grain or less), I suggest you go through and weigh the mil surplus rounds before you reload them. Like I said mine were for my .223's, but the same method should work for you: take a handful of your "standard" 168-grain bullets and weigh them so you know what weight tolerances you're used to, then go through and weigh out the mil surplus rounds, putting them in separate piles/baggies for each "weight spread" based on your standard bullet. For instance, my 69 grain MatchKing's were almost all between 68.9 and 69.1 grains, and I was weighing out mil surplus 75 grain bullets, so I had a baggie for 74.8-74.9, 75.0-75.1, 75.2-75.3, then another bag for anything else. I then went through a few hundred bullets, put them in the correct bags, and once I had about 100 or so in a given bag I'd use those to work up a specific load for that "weight range". It takes a little longer than just relying on Sierra or whomever to put out near-perfect bullets every time, but for the cost savings I think it's worth it and like I said I haven't seen any issues with accuracy. |
February 2, 2010, 07:46 PM | #3 | |
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They are Privi Partisan, the weights are not uniform at all like a SMK. The last time I weighed some out they were anywhere from 165-170 and it was more trouble sorting than I cared to do. Have shot about a thousand at tin cans and paper plates. MOA doubtful has been my experience and I don't want to talk bad about them cause they work as well as might be expected for inexpensive bullets. You might have different results, those are mine.
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February 2, 2010, 08:04 PM | #4 |
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Thanks Alloy thats what I was wanting to hear. Given that I am new to reloading (7months) I am looking for as much info on different products without haveing to nessasarily buy and try. Given your "experience" with them I think I may pass on this item.
Dirk going from .5" groups to possible 1" plus is "off" at 100 yds. I shoot paper quite often and was looking to see if such a product would be worth while. If the bullet weights wouldn't differ as much as 5 grains (per alloy) then I might give them a try but from his experience the cost difference isn't worth the chance(possibly getting a good lot) to me. Thanks for your input. Last edited by Leadman; February 2, 2010 at 08:13 PM. |
February 2, 2010, 08:05 PM | #5 |
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They are terrible bullets as previously stated. Way off in weight and length. Length doesn't matter that much but mass sure does. Not worth the $$$$$ at all. Get some Nosler 168 J4 Custom Comp BTHPs and put em in the same hole.
Those bullets were the worst bullet purchase I ever made. I'd rather shoot pulled projectiles. |
February 2, 2010, 08:16 PM | #6 |
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I was hoping someone would reply to this, I was thinking about them myself. But if you took the trouble to weigh them and sort them, I wonder if it wouldn't make them at least marginally accurate?
alloy, did you actually weigh any of them out and try to measure accuracy? |
February 2, 2010, 08:32 PM | #7 | |
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Have done better with other bullets SwampYankee, weighed a bunch but they varied so much that I was ending up with maybe ten piles out of 50 bullets or so, which pile to put this one in? It's close to that heavy pile, but it's still light and this pile is light....etc. Maybe anality got the best of me trying to sort them but I found it to be one to many variables I'm not equipped to deal with.
Each group itself shot ok, but then you have the question of more powder or less so the load thing gets complicated, at least at my novice/hobby skill level. Gave up, relegated them to the end of the world pile. Still have a bunch and they bang a gong at 200 so that's still a ton of fun. Bearing down at the bench on a target for sub par is frustrating tho. Nosler custom comp as mentioned worked better for me for very little more, but they(privi) won't touch a SMK even though they are called Match. The diff is instantly recognizable on a target.
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February 2, 2010, 08:40 PM | #8 |
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Thanks for the response, I've been using the Hornady 168 Match and they seem fine, I'll check into the Nosler.
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February 2, 2010, 08:58 PM | #9 |
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Well...like I said, my experience was with .223's, and I went and weighed them all, and yes, in the end I had quite a few piles....but I was seeing a difference of tenth's of a grain, not ten grains. And, I don't consider 0.5" to 1" at 100 yards to be "off" for one of my semi's with a low-power scope, whereas yes, I'd consider that an issue for something that I intended to stack holes with. I probably should have phrased things differently - if you're concerned about accuracy over anything else then of course you should skip surplus, if it was as good as match bullets they'd be charging the same price, eh?
...Howeeeeeeever, if I knew that the bullets weren't the least bit similar in shape and mass, I wouldn't buy them, period. If a single batch of bullets can be split up into weights that could, in theory, be boxed as bullets of completely different weight categories, you're probably better off skipping them. |
February 2, 2010, 11:40 PM | #10 |
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I bought some just to check them out. They are not SMK's but they aren't that bad either. I've been shooting them in my Garand and my K-31 with irons and I really can't tell much difference than the SMK's, at least at 100yds. I have a couple of rifles that shoot sub MOA with 24x optics and I have not tried in those rifles. I'd say they're 40% cheaper and probably 10% inferior to premium slugs.
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February 3, 2010, 10:12 AM | #11 |
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February 3, 2010, 10:42 AM | #12 |
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If "X" bullet works "fine"....................why change.
If you are shopping for a Match Bullet, you should look to see what 168 grn bullet is winning the most matches. You might have to tweak it a bit for your gun, but its a place to start. I dont think 100 yards is a good place to test bullets. Most match shooters I've shot with seem to like 300 yards. Anyone can slop them in at 100-200 yards, and 600 + you are testing your ability to judge conditions. Just about anything will shoot at 100 yards.
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February 3, 2010, 09:44 PM | #13 |
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100 yards is a great way to test bullets. If you test loads at greater distances then environemtal factors like wind and changes in relative humidity can open up groups.
100 yards is the way to go to test handloads. Just use a quality match bullet from Sierra and Nolser. Bullet quality insures that differences in jacket consistency and mass are limited. The key to long range shooting is the man behind the gun and an MOA or sub-MOA load. |
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