Browning Hi Power Question

[YankeeIronSights]

I would like to change the hammer on my Browning Hi Power pistol. It currently has a standard hammer and I want a round one to avoid hammer/slide bite.

I have read that if I install a Cylinder & Slide commander style hammer, some level of fitting/gunsmithing will be required. I would be willing to spend extra for the original Browning commander hammer if it does not need any fitting work.

To those who own Hi Power models, can you confirm if hammer fitting for both brands is inevitable?

Please advise.

The chrome hammer is the original Browning round hammer.

The blued hammer is made by Cylinder & Slide.



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[Ibmikey]

You can get a hammer from gun parts Corp a whole bunch cheaper that is a duplicate of the original (cast not milled). I have installed about half a dozen without any need for smithing beyond changing springs while I had them apart. I have not had any complaints from the owners of the modified pistols.

[jonnyc]

Funny, but where spur hammers don't bite me, round hammers knock the hell out of my knuckle. Have you actually shot the pistol yet?

[YankeeIronSights]

The hammer reaches a bit lower than the beavertail. I have not experienced issues but it makes me feel somewhat uneasy of the possibility of getting hammer bitten, as my hand gets tired over prolonged practice time.



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[TunnelRat]

Getting hammer bitten stings, but it’s not excruciating. I think it’s worth seeing if you are affected first before going to replace the hammer.

I’ve done installs from Cylinder and Slide, but only the trigger and the safety. The trigger is drop in, the safety requires fitting. At least with the safety I received a set of instructions that included a picture of what I needed to file for the fitting and what proper function should look and feel like. They were some of the better instructions I’ve received with parts. If the instructions for the hammer are similar, you might be okay doing it yourself. Otherwise find a gunsmith local to you.


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[bamaranger]

Can't answer the OP question, but obtaining a rowel style hammer for my BHP has crossed my mind a few times. Like about every time I carry the thing concealed. I don't get hammer bite, never experienced it from any pistol I've fired. But, the hammer on my BHP likes to near eat a hole in my side, especially if seated in a car with my usual 4 o'clock OWB carry. Only auto that does me that way.

[Jim Watson]

What is the spur for?
Cut it off if it bites you.

[Bart Noir]

Jim, the spur sure comes in handy if you need to decock a loaded pistol.

Or to cock one which is decocked.

Why would you suggest he cut it off?

Bart Noir

[Bart Noir]

As jonnyc mentioned, for me at least, the standard Browning round hammer is a severe bitter. And the standard Browning spur hammer has never bitten me.

But hands are different and I am sure there is somebody who has noticed just the opposite when they fire the HiPowers.

On my dream HP build (a FEG, not a genuine Browing) I had the C&S trigger, sear, and "no bite" not quite round hammer put in. But that was by my gunsmith and so I can't answer the original question. I can say, when C&S says "no bite" it is true for me.

Bart Noir

[Jim Watson]

Jim, the spur sure comes in handy if you need to decock a loaded pistol.
Or to cock one which is decocked.

Bart, the Browning is a single action only automatic with a thumb safety.
Racking the slide to charge the chamber cocks it, pulling the trigger on an empty chamber decocks it. If it is not to be shot right away, set the safety.
Operationally little different from the many striker fired guns now in use.

I got over condition 2 a good many years ago, although I still have the gun configured for it.

[dahermit]

I would like to change the hammer on my Browning Hi Power pistol. It currently has a standard hammer and I want a round one to avoid hammer/slide bite.
I have read that if I install a Cylinder & Slide commander style hammer, some level of fitting/gunsmithing will be required. I would be willing to spend extra for the original Browning commander hammer if it does not need any fitting work.
To those who own Hi Power models, can you confirm if hammer fitting for both brands is inevitable?

I bought a H.P. many years ago and did not like the standard hammer spur...always liked the looks of the round hammer spur as per the original design. Swapped it out with a round hammer model (don't remember who I got it from) just for the aesthetics. Worked fine, no fitting reuired. However, I only did one...one instance is not enough data to generalize.

[tipoc]

Well read this brief article from Steven Camp:

https://hipowersandhandguns.com/HiPo...HammerBite.htm

I fall in with the first group and have found that the easiest way to rid myself of this problem is to bob the hammer spur off at about the second lateral serration from the rear of the spur. This is a small amount, but it makes a huge difference for me.

If you want to resolve the issue simple file off a section of the spur of the hammer a bit at a time. The hammers are always serrated and those serrations give you a marker to remove material a small bit till it's just right for you. It also means you can leave enough material to lower the hammer safely.

If you do want to replace the spur hammer with a Commander style than read Mr. Camp's article and here are a few options:

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/brow...er/hammer.html

https://cylinder-slide.com/Category/BHPhs

https://czcustom.com/czc-hi-power-hammer.html

http://powercustom.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=223

And there is always here, Numrich...

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/search#...Power%20hammer


tipoc

[Jim Watson]

Helps to round off the bottom edge and corners, too.

Back in the previous century before so many aftermarket parts were available, it was commonly done to cut off the bottom lobe of the burr hammer on a Browning or Commander, leaving the top surface as a small spur.

[Ibmikey]

Anytime I shoot my 1911 or Hi Power (either hammer style) pistols I wear a shooting glove And do not worry about hammer bite. For the occasional emergency use hammer bite would be my last concern. I have twenty Hi Powers and cannot recall a bite when I failed to wear the glove.

[P-990]

I can't help with Hi Power parts compatibility, but I am in the camp that gets hammer bite. Looking at the spur in the OPs picture, I don't see hammer bite potential. There's too much space between the tail of the frame and the hammer spur. At worst you'll get a little love tap from it.

Hammer bite is when the web of your hand gets caught between the hammer spur and the frame. That will get your attention post-haste. I get bit by stock Hi Powers with the round hammer, even just hand cycling them. The last new FN Browning Hi Power my local shop ever had for sale? Bit me. The Tisas Regent HP clone? Bit me. A Sistema 1927? Bit me, left a bruise and took a chunk out of the web of my hand.

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[Jim Watson]

There are a lot of hammer biters out there, we are taking a higher hold on the gun than when these "classic" pistols were designed.
I am not much subject to hammer bite but I have had two friends get all the fun they wanted in a few shots with my P210. One said "You might ought to wipe the blood off your gun."

[dogtown tom]

Missing in this discussion is that some aren't "bit" by the back of the ring hammer or spur hammer, but by being pinched by the back of the hammer shaft.

As pictured above, C&S "No Bite" hammers have that area relieved.

[dogtown tom]

Jim Watson

Bart, the Browning is a single action only automatic with a thumb safety.

I'll bet a doughnut that Bart knows that since he owns one.

Racking the slide to charge the chamber cocks it, pulling the trigger on an empty chamber decocks it.

Sure, but pulling the trigger with a round in the chamber makes loud noises. Bart's comment is valid, having enough spur to allow one to safely decock with a round in the chamber is a concern.

If it is not to be shot right away, set the safety.

That's your choice, but many choose to decock.

I got over condition 2 a good many years ago, although I still have the gun configured for it.

Which wasn't the point.

[jimacp]

I have two Hi-Powers with spur hammers. I simply took a Dremel and knocked off a little of the spur. Touch up blue and it looks like factory made. Took maybe 10 minutes. One of the top Hi-Power gunsmiths in the country recommend I do this and he does it to some of his customers' guns. I never have hammer bite now.

[12-34hom]

As firearms go , Browning hi-powers are pleasing to the eye, wonderful shooters. If they only made them chambered in 10mm....

[Jack19]

If I remember correctly, it was the spur hammer that was supposed to have solved the issues of hammer bite with the ring hammer.

Have your spur hammer bobbed and you'll have less of an issue.

[44 AMP]

I've always figured that, if a gun bites you, you're holding it wrong.

[Scorch]

High Powers bite, spur hammer or burr hammer. If you want a spur hammer, bob it. Don't cut the spur off completely, just shorten it. If you want to go with a burr hammer, the Cylinder & Slide hammer/sear kit will help a lot (the burr is not round, it is more like a rounded triangular shape). And just keep in mind that htere are very few "drop-in" parts that are actually drop-in.

[44 AMP]

The Hi Power I had never bit me. Nor have any of the 1911 pattern guns I've owned over the years with any kind of hammer.

I wear a size 8.5 glove for a really snug fit and a 9 work glove. I know people do get bitten, but since I doesn't happen to me, I have a hard time understanding how...

I maintain that if a gun bites you, you're doing something wrong. For that gun. No matter what someone tells you is the "right" way to do it, if the gun bites, its wrong for that gun.

My Grandfather's shotgun has more drop in the stock than most, he had it made to fit him. Found out the hard way, putting my thumb over the wrist of the stock split my lip. Right for about any other shotgun, wrong way to shoot THAT one. Thumb ALONG the stock handles beautifully, thumb over the stock, major pain and embarassment, for ME...

Not going to critique anyone's style only saying, if you get bit, something is wrong...

[tex45acp]

I've had my Hi Power now for about 20 years and it is my favorite 9mm to shoot....but that was not always the case. Like you I was constantly hammer bit. Then I purchased a Cylinder and Slide Hammer, sear and trigger package. It was the first install I had done where I did not have to do any tweaking of the parts. Not only did it cure my hammer bite but the trigger was now 200% better. I have run hundreds of rounds through the gun and the parts have always functioned flawlessly. I highly recommend the C&S Parts. Here is my gun.