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Old June 10, 2018, 07:35 PM   #26
kmw1954
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Thanks, and you bet! Chased these loads around for about 4 weeks trying all sorts of things. Now this gun performs just as I expected it to and is a blast to shoot.. Now kind of wish I was 20 years younger with eye more focused and hands that didn't shake as much.
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Old June 10, 2018, 08:08 PM   #27
Nick_C_S
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Now kind of wish I was 20 years younger with eye more focused and hands that didn't shake as much.
Heh. Yeah.
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Old June 10, 2018, 09:06 PM   #28
cw308
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Where in the same ball park . But every day at the range is a good day, Be Well.

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Old June 11, 2018, 08:14 AM   #29
robhic
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USSR said:

However, with the taper crimp being applied to a pistol round, the crimp area is much larger and is being applied to the side of the bullet while you are continuing to push the bullet deeper in the case.
Thanks for your time and explanation. I thought the taper-crimp was mainly (solely?) to remove the flare and hold the bullet? All the rounds I've made incorporating seating/crimping in one step have worked well. The flare gets "ironed out" as the bullet seats to get OAL as per manual and plunk test. I set it so that it works as one motion so length isn't decreased.
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Old June 11, 2018, 09:02 AM   #30
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Robert,

Yes, the taper crimp is used to remove the flare and help prevent the bullet from being shoved further in the case during chambering, but the internal taper in the die which allows for a varying amount of crimp by varying how far up in the die the round goes, will apply a decreasing amount of crimp below the case mouth. This is good because .452" lead bullets in some brands of brass (PMC for one) will show a bulge where the bullet is, and the taper will allow for better feeding. I normally taper crimp lead bullets to .469".

Don
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