Reloading Military Brass!

mniesen89 · October 23, 2007, 06:46 PM

So I've done some research and I want to start reloading surplus 30-06.I've read in different reviews that military brass has a thicker wall thickness then standard brass.How will this effect my reloading and do I have to make any adjusements?

cdrt · October 23, 2007, 07:28 PM

Because of the thicker brass, the internal capacity of the case is less, which could result in higher pressures if you start with std loads for commercial brass. Just reduce your starting load by one or two grains and work up to your max load a little more carefully.

mniesen89 · October 23, 2007, 07:33 PM

Thanks for the advise,is corrosive ammo okay to relaod?

cdrt · October 23, 2007, 08:35 PM

The primer is the corrosive part. Once it's gone and the case is clean, it's okay to load. You may have to decrimp the primer pockets, unless it's Match brass.

totalloser · October 24, 2007, 12:36 AM

Just a thought, but if you are looking at corrosive ammo to reload, make sure it's not berdan primed or you can't reload it at all. Well, unless you get really creative at decapping that stuff.

Antipasta · October 24, 2007, 07:57 PM

How do you decrimp the primer pockets? Is there a special tool or do I already own something that will work? Thanks!

rgitzlaff · October 24, 2007, 08:07 PM

Primer pocket reamer is what I use. Some people also like to swage the primer pockets with a tool.

Red_Eagle · October 24, 2007, 08:33 PM

If I were you I would ream. I'm not even sure the RCBC primer pocket swagging kit would fit on a Lee hand press, and If it did you'd have some pretty sore hands afterward.

Antipasta · October 24, 2007, 09:29 PM

Thanks!

swmike · October 25, 2007, 12:42 PM

For removing the crimps in military brass I have used both the RCBS swaging tool and a Lyman primer pocket reamer. Lately I find myself using the lyman reamer more. I have an inexpensive Harbor Freight Drill Press ($39 when I bought it) that I chuck the reamer in. I then ream each pocket. Takes a couple of seconds. I average about 250 rounds per hour with this method.

Dillon also makes a swageing tool for $80-90 that is supposed to be real fast. What I find is that the swaging tool doesn't work as well if the military crimp is slightly off-center. It then leaves a slight ridge that catches the inbound new primer on the press. The reamer chamfers the pocket and new primers don't hang up.

mniesen89 · October 25, 2007, 04:09 PM

okay,another newby response, how do I identify a berdan primer and also how do I idnetify a crimped piece of brass?

Toolman · October 25, 2007, 07:47 PM

Berdan primers have two holes in them for the spark to ignite the powder. To check if a case is berdan primed, look into the neck of the spent case to where the primer is, if you see two holes, it's berdan primed. They can be deprimed, but it's a hassle. You can buy the mechanical berdan deprimer from Brownells but they can tear up the cases. You can also deprime them hydraulically using oil & a pin thats been ground down to fit the inside of the neck, but it's a P.I.T.A. & makes a mess (ask me how I know).

Crimped primer? Usually there is a slight 'ring' or three 'stake' marks around the edge of the primer pocket. All military brass that I've reloaded had a crimped primer pocket. I remove crimps with a reamer.

mniesen89 · October 25, 2007, 08:00 PM

Thanks toolman,definitely helped!

Tim R · October 25, 2007, 11:22 PM

I found I like the "feel" of a swaged primer pocket over a cut one when it comes to GI brass and priming.

If you are going to load lots of GI brass like I do then you will find the $86.00 Dillon Super swage worth every penny.

Generally, when loading '06 or 308 GI brass, you should reduce by 2 grains when starting work ups. 45 ACP, 9mm and .223 doesn't seem to be affected as much.

mniesen89 · October 26, 2007, 10:16 PM

Hey thanks tim, what branch should I buy and is Midway going to be the cheapest I can find

October 23, 2007, 06:46 PM	#1
mniesen89 Senior Member Join Date: October 21, 2007 Location: deland,fl Posts: 238	Reloading Military Brass! So I've done some research and I want to start reloading surplus 30-06.I've read in different reviews that military brass has a thicker wall thickness then standard brass.How will this effect my reloading and do I have to make any adjusements?

October 23, 2007, 07:28 PM	#2
cdrt Senior Member Join Date: June 7, 2007 Location: The Lone Star State Posts: 255	Because of the thicker brass, the internal capacity of the case is less, which could result in higher pressures if you start with std loads for commercial brass. Just reduce your starting load by one or two grains and work up to your max load a little more carefully. __________________ Navy Vet, SWIFT Boat OIC, Distinguished Pistol Shot #1399 USS JOHN S. MCCAIN (DDG-36)

October 23, 2007, 08:35 PM	#4
cdrt Senior Member Join Date: June 7, 2007 Location: The Lone Star State Posts: 255	The primer is the corrosive part. Once it's gone and the case is clean, it's okay to load. You may have to decrimp the primer pockets, unless it's Match brass. __________________ Navy Vet, SWIFT Boat OIC, Distinguished Pistol Shot #1399 USS JOHN S. MCCAIN (DDG-36)

October 24, 2007, 07:57 PM	#6
Antipasta Senior Member Join Date: April 25, 2007 Location: Exit 5 Posts: 140	How do you decrimp the primer pockets? Is there a special tool or do I already own something that will work? Thanks! __________________ NRA, ANJRPC, NJCSD

October 24, 2007, 08:33 PM	#8
Red_Eagle Senior Member Join Date: February 3, 2007 Location: Western NY Posts: 598	If I were you I would ream. I'm not even sure the RCBC primer pocket swagging kit would fit on a Lee hand press, and If it did you'd have some pretty sore hands afterward. Last edited by Red_Eagle; October 25, 2007 at 02:02 AM.

October 23, 2007, 07:33 PM	#3
mniesen89 Senior Member Join Date: October 21, 2007 Location: deland,fl Posts: 238	Thanks for the advise,is corrosive ammo okay to relaod?

October 24, 2007, 12:36 AM	#5
totalloser Senior Member Join Date: October 19, 2007 Location: Fort Bragg, CA Posts: 679	Just a thought, but if you are looking at corrosive ammo to reload, make sure it's not berdan primed or you can't reload it at all. Well, unless you get really creative at decapping that stuff.

October 24, 2007, 08:07 PM	#7
rgitzlaff Senior Member Join Date: January 8, 2006 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 524	Primer pocket reamer is what I use. Some people also like to swage the primer pockets with a tool.

October 24, 2007, 09:29 PM	#9
Antipasta Senior Member Join Date: April 25, 2007 Location: Exit 5 Posts: 140	Thanks! __________________ NRA, ANJRPC, NJCSD

October 25, 2007, 12:42 PM	#10
swmike Senior Member Join Date: June 25, 2005 Location: Marysville, WA Posts: 670	For removing the crimps in military brass I have used both the RCBS swaging tool and a Lyman primer pocket reamer. Lately I find myself using the lyman reamer more. I have an inexpensive Harbor Freight Drill Press ($39 when I bought it) that I chuck the reamer in. I then ream each pocket. Takes a couple of seconds. I average about 250 rounds per hour with this method. Dillon also makes a swageing tool for $80-90 that is supposed to be real fast. What I find is that the swaging tool doesn't work as well if the military crimp is slightly off-center. It then leaves a slight ridge that catches the inbound new primer on the press. The reamer chamfers the pocket and new primers don't hang up. __________________ My definition of Gun Control--- A steady grip and hitting your target. "In God we trust, all others are suspects." "If I shoot all the ammo I am carrying, either I won't need any more, or more won't be of any help". ____________________________________________

October 25, 2007, 04:09 PM	#11
mniesen89 Senior Member Join Date: October 21, 2007 Location: deland,fl Posts: 238	okay,another newby response, how do I identify a berdan primer and also how do I idnetify a crimped piece of brass?

October 25, 2007, 07:47 PM	#12
Toolman Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 514	Berdan primers have two holes in them for the spark to ignite the powder. To check if a case is berdan primed, look into the neck of the spent case to where the primer is, if you see two holes, it's berdan primed. They can be deprimed, but it's a hassle. You can buy the mechanical berdan deprimer from Brownells but they can tear up the cases. You can also deprime them hydraulically using oil & a pin thats been ground down to fit the inside of the neck, but it's a P.I.T.A. & makes a mess (ask me how I know). Crimped primer? Usually there is a slight 'ring' or three 'stake' marks around the edge of the primer pocket. All military brass that I've reloaded had a crimped primer pocket. I remove crimps with a reamer. __________________ Crime Control. NOT Gun Control.

October 25, 2007, 08:00 PM	#13
mniesen89 Senior Member Join Date: October 21, 2007 Location: deland,fl Posts: 238	Thanks toolman,definitely helped!

October 25, 2007, 11:22 PM	#14
Tim R Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2004 Location: God's side of Washington State Posts: 1,601	I found I like the "feel" of a swaged primer pocket over a cut one when it comes to GI brass and priming. If you are going to load lots of GI brass like I do then you will find the $86.00 Dillon Super swage worth every penny. Generally, when loading '06 or 308 GI brass, you should reduce by 2 grains when starting work ups. 45 ACP, 9mm and .223 doesn't seem to be affected as much. __________________ God Bless our Troops especially our Snipers.

October 26, 2007, 10:16 PM	#15
mniesen89 Senior Member Join Date: October 21, 2007 Location: deland,fl Posts: 238	Hey thanks tim, what branch should I buy and is Midway going to be the cheapest I can find