Neck turning

Redneck2 · March 20, 2001, 07:10 PM

Just got some new Winchester 22-250 brass. Going to load for a PD hunt. Is it worth the trouble to neck size on new brass? I know that for the BR buys that need the extra .1 everything helps. How much does it help to keep in "minute of 'dog" or does that depend on the particular rifle (it's a 700 VS).

Southla1 · March 20, 2001, 07:44 PM

Its always best to size new brass and chamfer it before loading it the first time. I always neck turn mine for all my rifles not just the 22-250. I set the depth on the turner (Forster) just deep enough to make the necks concentric. This makes the bullet tension the same (hopefully

) from case to case without removing any brass to speak of. I find that it does not necessarly tighten groups but it seems to help eliminate some flyers.

Big Bunny · March 22, 2001, 05:52 PM

I would fire them a few times - RN2- with scotch-taped head(the first time) and neck size only/chamfer/check for length - at the range and then centralise flash-hole with Lyman tool and then outside neck-turn with the minimum of brass shaved off before re-loading.

Bogie · March 22, 2001, 06:08 PM

Disclaimer: I shoot benchrest.

Best accuracy from a factory chamber. Fire form 'em with a starting load, with the bullet jammed hard. Bolt should close hard on the unfired round, since you're jamming the bullet into the lands.

If you're brass is halfway decent, you won't need to turn it. Find someone with a Neco gauge, or something similar, and check it out. If it doesn't vary too much, leave it alone.

FWIW, I shoot unprepped (except for flashhole and primer pocket) Winchester .22-250 brass in one of my Savages, and with 55 gr. Berger MEFs and H380, it'll agg in the mid-threes...

March 20, 2001, 07:10 PM	#1
Redneck2 Senior Member Join Date: April 24, 2000 Location: Northern Indiana Posts: 519	Just got some new Winchester 22-250 brass. Going to load for a PD hunt. Is it worth the trouble to neck size on new brass? I know that for the BR buys that need the extra .1 everything helps. How much does it help to keep in "minute of 'dog" or does that depend on the particular rifle (it's a 700 VS).

March 20, 2001, 07:44 PM	#2
Southla1 Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 19, 2000 Location: Jeanerette, La. Near the Posts: 1,999	Its always best to size new brass and chamfer it before loading it the first time. I always neck turn mine for all my rifles not just the 22-250. I set the depth on the turner (Forster) just deep enough to make the necks concentric. This makes the bullet tension the same (hopefully ) from case to case without removing any brass to speak of. I find that it does not necessarly tighten groups but it seems to help eliminate some flyers.

March 22, 2001, 05:52 PM	#3
Big Bunny Senior Member Join Date: August 9, 1999 Location: New South Wales - Australia Posts: 605	I would fire them a few times - RN2- with scotch-taped head(the first time) and neck size only/chamfer/check for length - at the range and then centralise flash-hole with Lyman tool and then outside neck-turn with the minimum of brass shaved off before re-loading.

March 22, 2001, 06:08 PM	#4
Bogie Senior Member Join Date: June 5, 2000 Location: Job hunting on the road... Posts: 3,827	Disclaimer: I shoot benchrest. Best accuracy from a factory chamber. Fire form 'em with a starting load, with the bullet jammed hard. Bolt should close hard on the unfired round, since you're jamming the bullet into the lands. If you're brass is halfway decent, you won't need to turn it. Find someone with a Neco gauge, or something similar, and check it out. If it doesn't vary too much, leave it alone. FWIW, I shoot unprepped (except for flashhole and primer pocket) Winchester .22-250 brass in one of my Savages, and with 55 gr. Berger MEFs and H380, it'll agg in the mid-threes...