Point of aim questions RE UZI

MeekAndMild · August 5, 2001, 10:19 PM

Hello, I have several questions regarding point of aim on a full sized UZI with a 10 inch barrel.

1) Does the point of aim normally shift to the left when a wooden stock is installed, ralative to normal with the steel stock? If so, why would that be?

2) Does anyone have any experiance converting the peep site to an open sit by grinding off the top until it looks like a vee? If so is it better to grind all the way to the bottom of the circle or only halfway through so the vee would have a little divot in the bottom? Adn it the sit is ground off is it better to use the 100 yard side or the 200 yard side?

3) Are there any tables of bullet drop at varous ranges? The only tables I can find are related to pistols with 4 inch or 6 inch barrels.

4) Can an Uzi be converted to closed bolt configuration to improve its target performance?

Thank you.

gaijin · August 6, 2001, 12:57 PM

1) I sighted my UZI in with the folding steel stock, then installed the polymer detachable stock and re-checked my zero - there was no change. I would expect no change between your steel stock and wooden stock.

2) Rather than grinding the rear sight into a "V", I recommend drilling out the "100" aperture to 1/16" and reaming for smoothness. Be warned: the steel used in the raer sight is VERY tough stuff and requires a stout drill bit to get through it. Another suggestion would be to do this surgery on a replacement part so that the gun could be returned to stock easily. The larger aperture acts like a ghost ring sight and allows much faster target acquisition. You would still have the "200" aperture for precision long shots.

3) The UZI SMG Operation Manual gives a muzzle velocity of 1394 feet/second for a 115gr bullet. Using a ballistics program set to standard atmospere at sea level and using the UZI sight height (which has no effect on drop, but will affect zero) of 1.75" we get the following bullet drops:

0 yards +-0"
20 yards -0.4"
50 yards -2.5"
60 yards -3.6"
80 yards -6.7"
100 yards -10.8"
120 yards -16"
140 yards -22.6"
150 yards -26.4"
200 yards -50.6"
250 yards -85"
300 yards -130"

Now, if we zero the weapon for 100 yards (dead on at 100 yards) with the "100" aperture, then we get the following points of impact with the "100" aperture:

0 yards -1.75"
20 yards +0.34"
40 yards +1.68"
50 yards +2"
60 yards +2.14"
80 yards +1.6"
100 yards +-0" (ZERO)
120 yards -2.8"
140 yards -6.8"
150 yards -9.3"
160 yards -12.2"
180 yards -19"
200 yards -27"

As always, your mileage may vary, but this should give you a starting point for determining where your load shoots in your gun. BTW, the Ballistic Coefficient for a 115gr FMJ round is approximately 0.142. The muzzle velocity is based on NATO spec ammo, so yours may be less.

4) No. The UZI cannot be re-configured for closed bolt operation. It is not a target weapon, it is a battle rifle with high reliability and acceptable accuracy.

Hope this helps.

gaijin · August 7, 2001, 09:16 AM

Some further thoughts on how to zero the UZI:

The "100" and "200" apertures are in meters, not yards, but I'll show how this will work in yards.

A "Battle" zero is one that would provide acceptable center mass hits over the braodest range.

Using the "100" aperture, the Zero should be adjusted to 25 yards. If we do this we are zeroed at both 25 and 70 yards as follows:

0 yards -1.75 inches
10 yards -1 "
15 yards -0.5"
25 yards +-0" ZERO
50 yards +0.5"
70 yards +-0" ZERO
75 yards -0.3"
100 yards -2.75"

Now, keep the gun adjusted the same, but flip the rear aperture to the "200" aperture and you will realize the following points of impact:

100 yards +12"
125 yards +12"
150 yards +9"
175 yards +5"
195 yards +-0" ZERO
200 yards -1"
225 yards -10"
250 yards -21"
275 yards -35"
300 yards -51"

So, set the rear aperture to "100", zero at 25 yards, and you're ready for the invading hordes.

HTH

MeekAndMild · August 7, 2001, 12:20 PM

Thanks for the replies. On point of aim differences I think that it must be the shape of my the bones in my face doing it, as the steel stock fits tighter into the notch under the cheekbone. I've had 2 other people shoot it, and neither one had the aim point shift. Its just an inch and a half at 25 yards but is a nuisance.

MeekAndMild · August 15, 2001, 10:26 PM

The drill hole worked well. Lots of light and much easier to see through. I'll see if the jpg comes through all right.

August 5, 2001, 10:19 PM	#1
MeekAndMild Senior Member Join Date: August 2, 2001 Posts: 4,988	Point of aim questions RE UZI Hello, I have several questions regarding point of aim on a full sized UZI with a 10 inch barrel. 1) Does the point of aim normally shift to the left when a wooden stock is installed, ralative to normal with the steel stock? If so, why would that be? 2) Does anyone have any experiance converting the peep site to an open sit by grinding off the top until it looks like a vee? If so is it better to grind all the way to the bottom of the circle or only halfway through so the vee would have a little divot in the bottom? Adn it the sit is ground off is it better to use the 100 yard side or the 200 yard side? 3) Are there any tables of bullet drop at varous ranges? The only tables I can find are related to pistols with 4 inch or 6 inch barrels. 4) Can an Uzi be converted to closed bolt configuration to improve its target performance? Thank you.

August 6, 2001, 12:57 PM	#2
gaijin Member Join Date: November 26, 2000 Posts: 39	Lots of info - here goes ... 1) I sighted my UZI in with the folding steel stock, then installed the polymer detachable stock and re-checked my zero - there was no change. I would expect no change between your steel stock and wooden stock. 2) Rather than grinding the rear sight into a "V", I recommend drilling out the "100" aperture to 1/16" and reaming for smoothness. Be warned: the steel used in the raer sight is VERY tough stuff and requires a stout drill bit to get through it. Another suggestion would be to do this surgery on a replacement part so that the gun could be returned to stock easily. The larger aperture acts like a ghost ring sight and allows much faster target acquisition. You would still have the "200" aperture for precision long shots. 3) The UZI SMG Operation Manual gives a muzzle velocity of 1394 feet/second for a 115gr bullet. Using a ballistics program set to standard atmospere at sea level and using the UZI sight height (which has no effect on drop, but will affect zero) of 1.75" we get the following bullet drops: 0 yards +-0" 20 yards -0.4" 50 yards -2.5" 60 yards -3.6" 80 yards -6.7" 100 yards -10.8" 120 yards -16" 140 yards -22.6" 150 yards -26.4" 200 yards -50.6" 250 yards -85" 300 yards -130" Now, if we zero the weapon for 100 yards (dead on at 100 yards) with the "100" aperture, then we get the following points of impact with the "100" aperture: 0 yards -1.75" 20 yards +0.34" 40 yards +1.68" 50 yards +2" 60 yards +2.14" 80 yards +1.6" 100 yards +-0" (ZERO) 120 yards -2.8" 140 yards -6.8" 150 yards -9.3" 160 yards -12.2" 180 yards -19" 200 yards -27" As always, your mileage may vary, but this should give you a starting point for determining where your load shoots in your gun. BTW, the Ballistic Coefficient for a 115gr FMJ round is approximately 0.142. The muzzle velocity is based on NATO spec ammo, so yours may be less. 4) No. The UZI cannot be re-configured for closed bolt operation. It is not a target weapon, it is a battle rifle with high reliability and acceptable accuracy. Hope this helps.

August 7, 2001, 09:16 AM	#3
gaijin Member Join Date: November 26, 2000 Posts: 39	Battle Zero Some further thoughts on how to zero the UZI: The "100" and "200" apertures are in meters, not yards, but I'll show how this will work in yards. A "Battle" zero is one that would provide acceptable center mass hits over the braodest range. Using the "100" aperture, the Zero should be adjusted to 25 yards. If we do this we are zeroed at both 25 and 70 yards as follows: 0 yards -1.75 inches 10 yards -1 " 15 yards -0.5" 25 yards +-0" ZERO 50 yards +0.5" 70 yards +-0" ZERO 75 yards -0.3" 100 yards -2.75" Now, keep the gun adjusted the same, but flip the rear aperture to the "200" aperture and you will realize the following points of impact: 100 yards +12" 125 yards +12" 150 yards +9" 175 yards +5" 195 yards +-0" ZERO 200 yards -1" 225 yards -10" 250 yards -21" 275 yards -35" 300 yards -51" So, set the rear aperture to "100", zero at 25 yards, and you're ready for the invading hordes. HTH

August 7, 2001, 12:20 PM	#4
MeekAndMild Senior Member Join Date: August 2, 2001 Posts: 4,988	Thanks for the replies. On point of aim differences I think that it must be the shape of my the bones in my face doing it, as the steel stock fits tighter into the notch under the cheekbone. I've had 2 other people shoot it, and neither one had the aim point shift. Its just an inch and a half at 25 yards but is a nuisance.