Loading for my first AR-15

[Tex S]

So I decided to buy a Larue Tactical 16" OBR chambered in 5.56. I have been loading for awhile, albeit never for a semi-auto rifle. Since I'm considering this to be a high volume shooter, I will probably treat it as more of a pistol reloading process as opposed to a bolt gun. Basically, what I mean by this, is I want to use my LCTP to load larger volumes of ammo as opposed to loading singly on my single stage press.

Thus, I am trying to figure out the right way to go. I decided to purchase some cleaned and swaged LC brass from Brassbombers (I have never used them, so I hope the brass will turn out good... $85 per 1k). If I am to use the LCTP to load, should I buy a small base die, or just buy a standard Lee .223 set and run with it?

Opinions on small base dies seem to be mixed, and I'm wondering if one will even be necessary. Maybe I could small base size for the first loading, and then just use the regular FL sizing die for each firing thereafter? What are your thoughts? I don't want to overwork my brass if I can prevent it. I also don't want to have to purchase equipment I don't need... Lord knows I already have enough things on my bench!

Also, I would like some opinions on cheap "shoot em' up" bullets. My rifle has a 1/8 twist. The test target that came with the rifle printed a .3" 100yd group using Federal GMM ammo. I believe the bullet was a 77gr SMK, but those bullets seem a bit too pricey for just making noise.

Thanks!!!!!!!

[Gadawg88]

I have loaded several thousand .223 on my LCTP using standard Lee die set without issues of any kind. The Hornady 55gn fmjbt bullet makes a good plinking round and can be had for $0.10 per. I have also used the 55gn fmjbt from X-Treme. I have not been able to tell much difference between them and usually stock up when either goes on sale.

[oldpapps]

I've not found any great problems with loading for auto loaders over bolt guns.

I'm not sure what "swaged LC brass" actual means. If it means full length sized, was this with 'small base' dies? I think not. Or is this the primer pockets? Most likely of the two.

As I see it, once fired brass from unknown sources should be full length sized and small base dies would help. After that, I don't see the need.

I have a set-up on a progressive (well I did but I keep snitching dies from it) to do .223s but I don't see any gain. Why? I am 'OCD' about case length and breaking the progression to trim each case, kind of kills the advantage of a progressive press. But, that is just me.

My opinion is small base dies are needed only when needed. What? If you have a feeding problem that is tracked back to standard sizing, then small base sizing dies may be your answer. Otherwise, not.

Bullets are bullets. They all shoot (if the proper size with the correct charge). A poor bullet will have trouble giving more than poor results. Better bullets give a much better chance for better accuracy and results on target. It comes down to what is needed and what you are willing to spend.

Also, I have yet to find any need to crimp.

I 'load for the weapon' for 2 of my .223/5.56 weapons but also have two other general use loadings (lighter bullets for one rifle with a slow twist and another with heaver and cheaper bullets). So, I have 4 standard loads for the same chambering. Am I confused?

Load with care and enjoy.

OSOK

[Woolecox]

So I decided to buy a Larue Tactical 16" OBR chambered in 5.56. I have been loading for awhile, albeit never for a semi-auto rifle. Since I'm considering this to be a high volume shooter, I will probably treat it as more of a pistol reloading process as opposed to a bolt gun. Basically, what I mean by this, is I want to use my LCTP to load larger volumes of ammo as opposed to loading singly on my single stage press.

Thus, I am trying to figure out the right way to go. I decided to purchase some cleaned and swaged LC brass from Brassbombers (I have never used them, so I hope the brass will turn out good... $85 per 1k). If I am to use the LCTP to load, should I buy a small base die, or just buy a standard Lee .223 set and run with it?

Opinions on small base dies seem to be mixed, and I'm wondering if one will even be necessary. Maybe I could small base size for the first loading, and then just use the regular FL sizing die for each firing thereafter? What are your thoughts? I don't want to overwork my brass if I can prevent it. I also don't want to have to purchase equipment I don't need... Lord knows I already have enough things on my bench!

Also, I would like some opinions on cheap "shoot em' up" bullets. My rifle has a 1/8 twist. The test target that came with the rifle printed a .3" 100yd group using Federal GMM ammo. I believe the bullet was a 77gr SMK, but those bullets seem a bit too pricey for just making noise.

Thanks!!!!!!!

A couple of months ago I took delivery of a Larue OBR 20”. I already had two carbines (Colt and Noveske) so next I wanted a “Designated Marksman” style rifle. I topped it with a US Optics 1.8x10 T-Pal. My OBR shoots sub 1/2 MOA groups with my hand loads. Berger 77 OTM TAC’s shoot better than SMK’s in my rifle. So, I feed it some pretty well prepped single stage press made ammo.

I am also using Lake City once fired brass and loading to 5.56 pressures which push the 77 grain bullets at 2800 fps. That is what the OBR is built for.

I do load ammo for my Colt on my Dillon RL550B. The Colt has a 1X Aimpoint and is not made for precision fire like the Larue. The 550 makes plenty good enough ammo for running 3 gun style courses and CQB. At one time I had a LCT press. The Dillon is light years ahead of the LCT. Get one if you can afford it.

The first two batches (different venders) of Lake City “prepped” brass that I bought was so sloppy i.e. length that varied 10 thou or more, sloppy primer pockets, and shavings and dirt left in the cases, that I now just buy brass that has been cleaned only. I size it, trim it, and swage it on my Dillon Swage 600. It makes for some perfect brass and from there on out I just have to clean it and send it through the 550 or load it single stage if I want the extra accuracy. I do uniform the primer pockets for the good stuff.

Small base dies are not needed or desired. Full length sizer is all you need. Do get a good case gauge so you can set your dies for proper headspace. Again, Dillon makes as good of gauge as I have ever used.

Again, congrats and happy/safe reloading/shooting!

Wooly

Edit: Obviously reloading is going to be cheaper than buying match grade ammo like the Federal Gold Medal that your rifle was tested with. I have yet to find cheap bullets that shoot well (match grade). 77 SMK’s, 75 Swift Scirocco, or Berger TAC OTM are the best shooters that I have found. They are costly. A-max 75’s are dirt cheap and rumored to shoot well but are too long to load for AR magazines. Any weight SMK, Game King, V-max, etc will do you just fine for practice.

[Jim243]

Yes the heavier bullets are a bit pricier, but if 0.30 MOA is what you are after than spend the cash. If just pinking then the 55 grain is more than fine.

As to the X-Small base die you will only need it if you are loading for a 223 chambered rifle. I use one all the time, but I am loading for multiple rifles and do not want any of my loads not to chamber.

The trick for volume on the LCTP is to prep all your brass before hand as well as prime the cases and then use the LCTP to powder, check, seat and crimp the round.

This is shown on the below picture:


Jim

[chris in va]

I've loaded a few thousand for my S&W.

Make sure the resizing die is set up correctly. If you push it too much, the shoulder gets set back too far and you'll have issues. Not far enough and it won't fully chamber.

I crimp just for good measure, not out of perceived necessity. It has been proven to make pressures more consistent, arguably increasing accuracy.

4895 works well, and don't be scared to compress the charge per the recipes.

[Tex S]

Full length sizer is all you need. Do get a good case gauge so you can set your dies for proper headspace.

I don't use case gauges, instead I use the Hornady headspace gauge (the one with the set of bushings that you screw onto your dial calipers). What measurement should I be looking for from the datum point on the shoulder to the head of the case?

The trick for volume on the LCTP is to prep all your brass before hand as well as prime the cases and then use the LCTP to powder, check, seat and crimp the round.

Is that a powder check die installed on your LCTP? If so, what kind is it? I have never had one of those.

[steve4102]

Here is a good read, enjoy.

http://www.exteriorballistics.com/re...sgunreload.cfm

[Woolecox]

I don't use case gauges, instead I use the Hornady headspace gauge (the one with the set of bushings that you screw onto your dial calipers). What measurement should I be looking for from the datum point on the shoulder to the head of the case?

A case gage will tell you instantly if you are within SAAMI spec with your case or a loaded cartridge. It will show you max and min headspace and max and min case length as well. The caliper method only tells you how much you have bumped a case back.

The Dillon and Sheridan Engineering are the best I have ever used. L. E. Wilson does work ok. I have one match chamber that is tighter than the Wilson gauge so I shy away from them now. The Sheridan can be had with a cutaway and it will let you see COAL as well. Indispensable for loading automatics IMO.

[Woolecox]

Here is a good read, enjoy.

http://www.exteriorballistics.com/re...sgunreload.cfm

Very good article indeed.

Thanks.