Chamfering and Deburring

Bravo1 · October 14, 2016, 01:05 AM

I'm prepping my brass and wanted to get feedback on chamfering and deburring.

If I don't have to trim my brass, since they are within specs of case size, and fit in my headspace gauge without any extra length sticking out, do I need to chamfer and debur?

If I can skip these two steps, this will save me time to reload.

1stmar · October 14, 2016, 01:09 AM

If you don't trim and it's not new brass you don't need to chamfer or debur. Some new brass has very tight necks.

Reloadron · October 14, 2016, 08:02 AM

The choice to chamfer the inside and deburr the outside edge of cartridge cases pretty much rest with you. When loading cartridges I generally always do it simply because I want uniformity and the chamfer seems to help with seating flat based bullets. Would I say it was absolutely required and necessary? Nope, matter of end user choice. I also always trim too, again for uniformity.

Ron

Bravo1 · October 14, 2016, 09:27 AM

Thanks for the insight. I'm cycling through my old factory brass that I'm looking to reload. Since I have about 1000 rounds, it would be a pain to try to process them all.

nhyrum · October 14, 2016, 11:04 AM

I do every piece, every time, Just for consistency sake. Even though, on my non trimmed brass the chamfers are usually still there somewhat. I just like having everything be the same. Probably just my ocd

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

603Country · October 14, 2016, 11:17 AM

I do each piece, but to make life easier I use the RCBS Trim Pro with the 3 way cutterhead. Trims, chamfers, and deburrs all at once.

mikld · October 14, 2016, 11:38 AM

Look at the cases. If there are burrs or sharp edges, then chamfer/deburr. Will you be able to start a bullet into the neck without a chamfer? Would you like consistent and neat brass vs. raggedy case mouths? Firing and sizing often can raise small burrs and all you gotta do is look.

T. O'Heir · October 14, 2016, 12:33 PM

The only time you must chamfer and deburr is with BNIB brass and after trimming. Otherwise, you don't.
There's absolutely no reason to trim or chamfer and deburr every time.

gwpercle · October 14, 2016, 01:37 PM

Chamfering and deburring every time will ruin the cases, just do it after trimming and don't over do it, take off any sharp edges , inside and out and your done. No need to ever do it again unless you do a trim job.
Gary

243winxb · October 14, 2016, 03:44 PM

Rifle, yes, 1 time, again after trimming.. Handgun, no, the flare/ bell takes care of it.

Reloadron · October 14, 2016, 04:00 PM

Good point made by Win243xb. I really don't bother with straight wall rifle or any of my handgun cases, only bottle neck rifle and then following trimming.

Ron

jetinteriorguy · October 14, 2016, 04:56 PM

For bottleneck rifle chamfer and deburr after trimming, but I like to chamfer all my cases to help ease bullet seating. Especially flat based bullets.

rodfac · October 14, 2016, 07:33 PM

Yes

Walkalong · October 14, 2016, 08:22 PM

Do it after every trimming, rifle or pistol. Some new revolver cases can benefit. I never do it with auto cases.

All you need to do is just knock off anything left from trimming and get rid of the sharp 90 degree edge. Many people over due it IMHO. Just knock off the sharp edge.

Stats Shooter · October 15, 2016, 12:02 AM

I just finished 1,000 .308 and 1,000 .223. After re-signing and tunneling, I put the caliper to each case. If they are within .003 of the minimum, then I don't trim. Those that are longer get trimmed. Those that get trimmed have to be deburred and chamfered. This alleviates a lot of work when doing bulk production and I get sub moa doing that.

If you allow for a couple thousandths most won't need trimmed every single time.

But, in my .338 Lapua, .300 win mag and .270, I trim every time.

FrankenMauser · October 15, 2016, 12:30 AM

I do every case for rifle cartridges, and some revolver cartridges. --When new (or new to me), or after trimming.

I've run into too many issues with burrs or thick case mouths to take the chance any more. I just get it over with and eliminate that potential headache.

hooligan1 · October 15, 2016, 07:02 AM

Some people would have the OP believe it's not necessary, but if you want to keep the concentricity of your cases when you seat a bullet then chambering must be done and done right.
I use a Lyman case prep tool kit that has all the case prep goodies in it, the camfering tool is fairly long, and the angle of it helps to seat bullets straighter than most. Very nice for VLD type bullets and Flat base bullets.

hdbiker · October 15, 2016, 10:51 AM

Only after Trimming , hdbiker

JeepHammer · October 16, 2016, 07:59 AM

I my opinion...
Cases are usually shorter than SAAMI/chamber when once fired.
Case swelling at the bottom you can't get out with normal home dies takes a little length out of the case.

This makes trimming totally unnecessary.

Sometimes flat base bullets won't insert into the cases easily after resizing the brass, and a champfer/deburring tool will help those bullets insert into the case easier.
'Boat Tail' bullets won't need that extra step.

Some case mouths will be cut so ragged there will be snags/burrs from the factory they need a little rehab in the form of a champfer.

Once cases are fired/resized enough, you may have to trim for length, then it's a good idea to clean up your work with a champfer/deburring.
Flat faced cutting tools scrape and flatten out the brass at the mouth and can cause some issues.

There are inverted 'V' shaped cutters out there, they do the length trimming and the inside/outside champfer/deburring at the same time.
Most also index off the 'Datum Line' on the case shoulder, giving you a more accurate 'Trim To' length then the flat faced cutting tools you commonly see.

RC20 · October 16, 2016, 03:42 PM

I have a one answer that works:

Gerrard Trimmer: I have the Tri Trimmer, motorized works fine but you have to shift too many things though its great is one case type in quantity.

It chamfers, deburs and trims to length off the shoulder (and very accurately)

Sure saves a lot of muss and is very accurate with the de-burr chamber parts (as well as the trim)

And yes it does let bullets slide into cases easier as well as starts them with better alignment, even with boat tails and almost mandatory for flat (IMNSHO)

I just re-trim as needed. Once every 4 or 5 rounds.

JeepHammer · October 16, 2016, 06:15 PM

If you want to save some money and have a drill motor, Trim It II indexes off the shoulder datum line, cuts & champfers at the same time.

cw308 · October 16, 2016, 07:53 PM

I trim chamfer inside & out every time. All cases have to be the same size to get the same crimp , role or taper. I try to have all the reloads be as close to exact as possible. To be fair, I'm only reloading the most, 50 at a time. I like reloading as much as shooting. The fun just never ends.

Bravo1 · October 17, 2016, 12:01 AM

Just a little more info....

I'm reloading .223 and also have the Lyman Case Prep center to do my trimming, chamfering and deburring. This is just plinking ammo and all my brass is once fired factory brass that I've had for a few years. When I reload, it's usually after I accumulate 500 pieces and have the time to start the whole process without interruption.

Thanks for all the feedback and when I trim cases, I do plan on doing the extra steps of chamfering and deburring.

October 14, 2016, 01:05 AM	#1
Bravo1 Member Join Date: March 27, 2016 Location: Issaquah, WA Posts: 35	Chamfering and Deburring I'm prepping my brass and wanted to get feedback on chamfering and deburring. If I don't have to trim my brass, since they are within specs of case size, and fit in my headspace gauge without any extra length sticking out, do I need to chamfer and debur? If I can skip these two steps, this will save me time to reload.

October 14, 2016, 11:38 AM	#7
mikld Senior Member Join Date: February 7, 2009 Location: Southern Oregon! Posts: 2,891	Look at the cases. If there are burrs or sharp edges, then chamfer/deburr. Will you be able to start a bullet into the neck without a chamfer? Would you like consistent and neat brass vs. raggedy case mouths? Firing and sizing often can raise small burrs and all you gotta do is look. __________________ My Anchor is holding fast! I've learned how to stand on my own two knees...

October 14, 2016, 12:33 PM	#8
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	The only time you must chamfer and deburr is with BNIB brass and after trimming. Otherwise, you don't. There's absolutely no reason to trim or chamfer and deburr every time. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

October 14, 2016, 03:44 PM	#10
243winxb Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2011 Location: USA Posts: 1,730	do I need to chamfer and debur? Rifle, yes, 1 time, again after trimming.. Handgun, no, the flare/ bell takes care of it.

October 14, 2016, 07:33 PM	#13
rodfac Senior Member Join Date: January 22, 2005 Location: Kentucky Posts: 3,623	Yes __________________ Cherish our flag, honor it, defend it in word and deed, or get the hell out. Our Bill of Rights has been paid for by heros in uniform and shall not be diluted by misguided governmental social experiments. We owe this to our children, anything less is cowardice. USAF FAC, 5th Spl Forces, Vietnam Vet '69-'73.

October 14, 2016, 01:09 AM	#2
1stmar Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2012 Location: Connecticut Posts: 2,378	If you don't trim and it's not new brass you don't need to chamfer or debur. Some new brass has very tight necks.

October 14, 2016, 08:02 AM	#3
Reloadron Senior Member Join Date: June 8, 2016 Location: Cleveland, Ohio Suburbs Posts: 1,750	The choice to chamfer the inside and deburr the outside edge of cartridge cases pretty much rest with you. When loading cartridges I generally always do it simply because I want uniformity and the chamfer seems to help with seating flat based bullets. Would I say it was absolutely required and necessary? Nope, matter of end user choice. I also always trim too, again for uniformity. Ron

October 14, 2016, 09:27 AM	#4
Bravo1 Member Join Date: March 27, 2016 Location: Issaquah, WA Posts: 35	Thanks for the insight. I'm cycling through my old factory brass that I'm looking to reload. Since I have about 1000 rounds, it would be a pain to try to process them all.

October 14, 2016, 11:04 AM	#5
nhyrum Senior Member Join Date: March 9, 2016 Posts: 588	I do every piece, every time, Just for consistency sake. Even though, on my non trimmed brass the chamfers are usually still there somewhat. I just like having everything be the same. Probably just my ocd Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

October 14, 2016, 11:17 AM	#6
603Country Senior Member Join Date: January 6, 2011 Location: Thornton, Texas Posts: 3,998	I do each piece, but to make life easier I use the RCBS Trim Pro with the 3 way cutterhead. Trims, chamfers, and deburrs all at once.

October 14, 2016, 01:37 PM	#9
gwpercle Senior Member Join Date: November 30, 2012 Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana Posts: 1,752	Chamfering and deburring every time will ruin the cases, just do it after trimming and don't over do it, take off any sharp edges , inside and out and your done. No need to ever do it again unless you do a trim job. Gary

October 14, 2016, 04:00 PM	#11
Reloadron Senior Member Join Date: June 8, 2016 Location: Cleveland, Ohio Suburbs Posts: 1,750	Good point made by Win243xb. I really don't bother with straight wall rifle or any of my handgun cases, only bottle neck rifle and then following trimming. Ron

October 14, 2016, 04:56 PM	#12
jetinteriorguy Senior Member Join Date: April 28, 2013 Posts: 3,175	For bottleneck rifle chamfer and deburr after trimming, but I like to chamfer all my cases to help ease bullet seating. Especially flat based bullets.

October 14, 2016, 08:22 PM	#14
Walkalong Senior Member Join Date: May 30, 2007 Location: Al. Posts: 196	Do it after every trimming, rifle or pistol. Some new revolver cases can benefit. I never do it with auto cases. All you need to do is just knock off anything left from trimming and get rid of the sharp 90 degree edge. Many people over due it IMHO. Just knock off the sharp edge.

October 15, 2016, 12:02 AM	#15
Stats Shooter Senior Member Join Date: August 26, 2016 Location: North Dakota Posts: 1,636	I just finished 1,000 .308 and 1,000 .223. After re-signing and tunneling, I put the caliper to each case. If they are within .003 of the minimum, then I don't trim. Those that are longer get trimmed. Those that get trimmed have to be deburred and chamfered. This alleviates a lot of work when doing bulk production and I get sub moa doing that. If you allow for a couple thousandths most won't need trimmed every single time. But, in my .338 Lapua, .300 win mag and .270, I trim every time.

October 15, 2016, 12:30 AM	#16
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,424	I do every case for rifle cartridges, and some revolver cartridges. --When new (or new to me), or after trimming. I've run into too many issues with burrs or thick case mouths to take the chance any more. I just get it over with and eliminate that potential headache. __________________ Don't even try it. It's even worse than the internet would lead you to believe.

October 15, 2016, 07:02 AM	#17
hooligan1 Senior Member Join Date: July 18, 2010 Location: Independence Missouri Posts: 4,585	Some people would have the OP believe it's not necessary, but if you want to keep the concentricity of your cases when you seat a bullet then chambering must be done and done right. I use a Lyman case prep tool kit that has all the case prep goodies in it, the camfering tool is fairly long, and the angle of it helps to seat bullets straighter than most. Very nice for VLD type bullets and Flat base bullets. __________________ Keep your Axe sharp and your powder dry.

October 15, 2016, 10:51 AM	#18
hdbiker Senior Member Join Date: December 19, 2012 Posts: 297	Only after Trimming , hdbiker

October 16, 2016, 07:59 AM	#19
JeepHammer Junior member Join Date: February 27, 2015 Posts: 1,768	I my opinion... Cases are usually shorter than SAAMI/chamber when once fired. Case swelling at the bottom you can't get out with normal home dies takes a little length out of the case. This makes trimming totally unnecessary. Sometimes flat base bullets won't insert into the cases easily after resizing the brass, and a champfer/deburring tool will help those bullets insert into the case easier. 'Boat Tail' bullets won't need that extra step. Some case mouths will be cut so ragged there will be snags/burrs from the factory they need a little rehab in the form of a champfer. Once cases are fired/resized enough, you may have to trim for length, then it's a good idea to clean up your work with a champfer/deburring. Flat faced cutting tools scrape and flatten out the brass at the mouth and can cause some issues. There are inverted 'V' shaped cutters out there, they do the length trimming and the inside/outside champfer/deburring at the same time. Most also index off the 'Datum Line' on the case shoulder, giving you a more accurate 'Trim To' length then the flat faced cutting tools you commonly see.

October 16, 2016, 03:42 PM	#20
RC20 Senior Member Join Date: April 10, 2008 Location: Alaska Posts: 7,014	I have a one answer that works: Gerrard Trimmer: I have the Tri Trimmer, motorized works fine but you have to shift too many things though its great is one case type in quantity. It chamfers, deburs and trims to length off the shoulder (and very accurately) Sure saves a lot of muss and is very accurate with the de-burr chamber parts (as well as the trim) And yes it does let bullets slide into cases easier as well as starts them with better alignment, even with boat tails and almost mandatory for flat (IMNSHO) I just re-trim as needed. Once every 4 or 5 rounds.

October 16, 2016, 06:15 PM	#21
JeepHammer Junior member Join Date: February 27, 2015 Posts: 1,768	If you want to save some money and have a drill motor, Trim It II indexes off the shoulder datum line, cuts & champfers at the same time.

October 16, 2016, 07:53 PM	#22
cw308 Senior Member Join Date: September 2, 2010 Location: Plainview , Long Island NY Posts: 3,863	I trim chamfer inside & out every time. All cases have to be the same size to get the same crimp , role or taper. I try to have all the reloads be as close to exact as possible. To be fair, I'm only reloading the most, 50 at a time. I like reloading as much as shooting. The fun just never ends.

October 17, 2016, 12:01 AM	#23
Bravo1 Member Join Date: March 27, 2016 Location: Issaquah, WA Posts: 35	Just a little more info.... I'm reloading .223 and also have the Lyman Case Prep center to do my trimming, chamfering and deburring. This is just plinking ammo and all my brass is once fired factory brass that I've had for a few years. When I reload, it's usually after I accumulate 500 pieces and have the time to start the whole process without interruption. Thanks for all the feedback and when I trim cases, I do plan on doing the extra steps of chamfering and deburring.