Reblue Old Remington Model 8? - Page 2

dakota.potts · February 27, 2020, 09:55 PM

Opinion only:

I have rust blued a couple older guns that were hopelessly rusted and pitted. Hot blue is glaringly obvious when done over pitting. Rust blue will not cover up pitting, but being a softer matte blue, it will look better than the hot blue.

If it were on my bench to work on, I would strip all of the rust and not touch the metal - no hope in polishing out the pits. Just ensure a uniform base metal and rust blue it.

The stock really also needs a re-finish or a replacement.

They are beautiful and fascinating rifles, whether it's worth it is up to you. I would figure minimum $300-400 to rust blue the metal, more depending on the smith you go with.

I wouldn't touch it with cold blue. Someone mentioned Oxpho blue, and that's about the best of the best, but it's still cold blue. The difference is very obvious.

deadcoyote · February 27, 2020, 11:05 PM

I’d cerakote it with different shades of OD green tiger stripes. Just kidding, I’d honestly go shoot it the way it is to make sure it works first. I’m super jealous, always wanted a .35 Remington model 8 or 81.

Drm50 · March 4, 2020, 08:00 PM

Taking in consideration the wood ( recoil pad ) the D&T for scope, sight base on rear of reciever is more D&T. I would shoot the rifle the way it is. Unless a gun like this has sentimental value the cost of a good refinish isn't practical. 8s are good rifles but if they have any problems parts are hard to come by. If it functions and shoots decent I would be happy to leave it alone and use as is.

Cheapshooter · March 5, 2020, 06:46 PM

I'm in the "shoot and enjoy" camp. For a ocouple reasons. 1. No matter what you spend, and it could be quite a bit, it is never going to be a collector, or worth a fraction of what refinishing it properly will cost.
2. I enjoy old guns as is. Realizing the battle scars are all an important part of their history, and the history of the former owners.
My opinions only. It's your gun, and considering the current condition you aren't going to ruin any collector value. Nor increase it much either. But if it makes you happy to spruce it up, have at it.

langenc · March 12, 2020, 08:49 PM

Query Remington and see what they would do for you..

Oxphoro paste is the best of the cold blues. It really aint past but is more like
pancake syrup but not so sticky in consistancy. It will do a so so job. Go to youtube for oxphoro blue application ideas. Best is probably w/ steel wool, believe it or not.

The pitting is a BIG problem. I once took a Ithaca for reblue. Some yahoo had taken a pipewrench and tried to remove the barrel. Gun came back pristine and about 1974 for $75.

Shootrj2003 · April 1, 2020, 12:34 AM

Nothing in bad condition is worth the money it costs to fix it ,however if you do the work it will be worth more at least than it is in the present condition.rust blueing is the best looking and most durable of finishes ,AND IT IS EASIER to do rust blueing at home than hot blueing and cheaper,and simpler just study on it ,then call Brownells for the products,I would even consider parkerizing it .it is highly unlikely anything you did to it would devalue it,do everything you can yourself,if your capable,when I have something.blued .I finish it myself so all he does is the dipping.Of course the appearance guarantee is on you but if you can finish steel (i can)you have done the biggest part ,the prep work.

Shootrj2003 · April 1, 2020, 12:42 AM

The wood looks salvageable too

langenc · April 16, 2020, 07:50 PM

Somebody ought to have their butt kicked-down the field and out the door.

Sure Shot Mc Gee · April 16, 2020, 09:24 PM

Its not so much the cheap bluing job that de-values. Its the aggressive buffing of the barrels stamped lettering and edges of_ that reduces overall value. I've witnessed another hot bluing and buffing out a Model 70 done so well in a garage it was near impossible with the naked eye to know original or re-blued. To my surprise the old fellow actually checked his work with a magnifying glass prior all thru and at jobs end. That's how articulate a bluing job can be done and should be done. Nothing more handsome than a deep blue black sheen on a old favorite Long barrel no matter the caliber.

Grant 14 · April 16, 2020, 10:39 PM

Veprdude, I have a bunch of 32 Remington brass listed on our fore sale forum. Maybe the reloading gurus can say if it can be necked up to 35 Remington. It just might get you shooting sooner than trying to find 35 Rem cases. Just a thought. Grant.

veprdude · April 17, 2020, 02:09 AM

35 Remington was available in new cartridges a few months back before the SHTF. I'm sure nobody has panic-bought it up. I still don't own any but it seems this project is deep-shelved in favor of others.

Grant 14 · April 17, 2020, 09:29 AM

Aw Shucks, I thought there would be a line for the 32 Rem cases, just like my 280 Ross cases, 7 by 61 Sharp&Hart cases, 30 Newton cases, and a few other oddballs. I suspect that most things that wont work in an AR are not much in demand. Good Luck with whatever your next project is. Grant.

Jim Watson · April 17, 2020, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Veprdude, I have a bunch of 32 Remington brass listed on our fore sale forum. Maybe the reloading gurus can say if it can be necked up to 35 Remington. It just might get you shooting sooner than trying to find 35 Rem cases. Just a thought. Grant.

Nope.
.35 Remington is, as far as I know, a unique head diameter, at least in US cartridges.
.32 (.25, .30) Remington is very close to a rimless .32 Special.

seeker_two · April 17, 2020, 10:59 AM

Are you trying to restore it to original appearance or make it functional for use?

If the former, I would contact Turnbull Restoration for guidance.

If the latter, I would look into one of the modern finishes for extra protection and self-lubricating properties.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

February 27, 2020, 09:55 PM	#26
dakota.potts Senior Member Join Date: February 25, 2013 Location: Keystone Heights, Florida Posts: 3,084	Opinion only: I have rust blued a couple older guns that were hopelessly rusted and pitted. Hot blue is glaringly obvious when done over pitting. Rust blue will not cover up pitting, but being a softer matte blue, it will look better than the hot blue. If it were on my bench to work on, I would strip all of the rust and not touch the metal - no hope in polishing out the pits. Just ensure a uniform base metal and rust blue it. The stock really also needs a re-finish or a replacement. They are beautiful and fascinating rifles, whether it's worth it is up to you. I would figure minimum $300-400 to rust blue the metal, more depending on the smith you go with. I wouldn't touch it with cold blue. Someone mentioned Oxpho blue, and that's about the best of the best, but it's still cold blue. The difference is very obvious. __________________ Certified Gunsmith (On Hiatus) Certified Armorer - H&K and Glock Among Others You can find my writings at my website, pottsprecision.com.

March 5, 2020, 06:46 PM	#29
Cheapshooter Senior Member Join Date: December 2, 2007 Location: Missouri Posts: 8,306	I'm in the "shoot and enjoy" camp. For a ocouple reasons. 1. No matter what you spend, and it could be quite a bit, it is never going to be a collector, or worth a fraction of what refinishing it properly will cost. 2. I enjoy old guns as is. Realizing the battle scars are all an important part of their history, and the history of the former owners. My opinions only. It's your gun, and considering the current condition you aren't going to ruin any collector value. Nor increase it much either. But if it makes you happy to spruce it up, have at it. __________________ Cheapshooter's rules of gun ownership #1: NEVER SELL OR TRADE ANYTHING!

February 27, 2020, 11:05 PM	#27
deadcoyote Senior Member Join Date: April 13, 2009 Location: northern CA Posts: 674	I’d cerakote it with different shades of OD green tiger stripes. Just kidding, I’d honestly go shoot it the way it is to make sure it works first. I’m super jealous, always wanted a .35 Remington model 8 or 81.

March 4, 2020, 08:00 PM	#28
Drm50 Senior Member Join Date: November 10, 2014 Posts: 1,380	Taking in consideration the wood ( recoil pad ) the D&T for scope, sight base on rear of reciever is more D&T. I would shoot the rifle the way it is. Unless a gun like this has sentimental value the cost of a good refinish isn't practical. 8s are good rifles but if they have any problems parts are hard to come by. If it functions and shoots decent I would be happy to leave it alone and use as is.

March 12, 2020, 08:49 PM	#30
langenc Senior Member Join Date: August 19, 2007 Location: Montmorency Co, MI Posts: 1,551	Query Remington and see what they would do for you.. Oxphoro paste is the best of the cold blues. It really aint past but is more like pancake syrup but not so sticky in consistancy. It will do a so so job. Go to youtube for oxphoro blue application ideas. Best is probably w/ steel wool, believe it or not. The pitting is a BIG problem. I once took a Ithaca for reblue. Some yahoo had taken a pipewrench and tried to remove the barrel. Gun came back pristine and about 1974 for $75.

April 1, 2020, 12:34 AM	#31
Shootrj2003 Member Join Date: August 12, 2007 Posts: 25	Nothing in bad condition is worth the money it costs to fix it ,however if you do the work it will be worth more at least than it is in the present condition.rust blueing is the best looking and most durable of finishes ,AND IT IS EASIER to do rust blueing at home than hot blueing and cheaper,and simpler just study on it ,then call Brownells for the products,I would even consider parkerizing it .it is highly unlikely anything you did to it would devalue it,do everything you can yourself,if your capable,when I have something.blued .I finish it myself so all he does is the dipping.Of course the appearance guarantee is on you but if you can finish steel (i can)you have done the biggest part ,the prep work.

April 1, 2020, 12:42 AM	#32
Shootrj2003 Member Join Date: August 12, 2007 Posts: 25	The wood looks salvageable too

April 16, 2020, 07:50 PM	#33
langenc Senior Member Join Date: August 19, 2007 Location: Montmorency Co, MI Posts: 1,551	Somebody ought to have their butt kicked-down the field and out the door.

April 16, 2020, 09:24 PM	#34
Sure Shot Mc Gee Senior Member Join Date: January 2, 2012 Location: Minnesota Posts: 3,876	Its not so much the cheap bluing job that de-values. Its the aggressive buffing of the barrels stamped lettering and edges of_ that reduces overall value. I've witnessed another hot bluing and buffing out a Model 70 done so well in a garage it was near impossible with the naked eye to know original or re-blued. To my surprise the old fellow actually checked his work with a magnifying glass prior all thru and at jobs end. That's how articulate a bluing job can be done and should be done. Nothing more handsome than a deep blue black sheen on a old favorite Long barrel no matter the caliber.

April 16, 2020, 10:39 PM	#35
Grant 14 Senior Member Join Date: February 10, 2018 Posts: 167	Veprdude, I have a bunch of 32 Remington brass listed on our fore sale forum. Maybe the reloading gurus can say if it can be necked up to 35 Remington. It just might get you shooting sooner than trying to find 35 Rem cases. Just a thought. Grant.

April 17, 2020, 02:09 AM	#36
veprdude Senior Member Join Date: March 18, 2019 Location: Texas Posts: 430	35 Remington was available in new cartridges a few months back before the SHTF. I'm sure nobody has panic-bought it up. I still don't own any but it seems this project is deep-shelved in favor of others.

April 17, 2020, 09:29 AM	#37
Grant 14 Senior Member Join Date: February 10, 2018 Posts: 167	Aw Shucks, I thought there would be a line for the 32 Rem cases, just like my 280 Ross cases, 7 by 61 Sharp&Hart cases, 30 Newton cases, and a few other oddballs. I suspect that most things that wont work in an AR are not much in demand. Good Luck with whatever your next project is. Grant.

April 17, 2020, 10:59 AM	#39
seeker_two Senior Member Join Date: August 31, 2002 Location: Deep in the Heart of the Lone Star State (TX) Posts: 2,169	Are you trying to restore it to original appearance or make it functional for use? If the former, I would contact Turnbull Restoration for guidance. If the latter, I would look into one of the modern finishes for extra protection and self-lubricating properties. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk