Brand new S&W 460 already has problems

[buck460XVR]

Originally Posted by silvermane_1

*sigh* "Millenial think" has absolutely nothing to do with it, this is what happens when workmanship/craftsmanship/QC takes "the very back seat of the bus" to maximization of profit margins there 2wheelwander, now with that said DirtyHarold send that 460 PC back to S&W and if they don't "make it right" demand a refund and buy a different brand, or go with a 454 in a Ruger SRH or one of the Ruger distributor exclusive lines.

One only has to look in this same sub-forum to see Ruger has it's own problems....https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=601365

The reason S&W's .460 has become so much more popular in it's short life span as compared to .454 in a Ruger Frame is shoot-ability. While the X-Frame is a pleasant experience with full house .460 loads, the Ruger is Brutal in comparison with the slightly less powerful .454. The S&W has a lifetime warranty, give S&W the chance to make it right. The OP sent the gun in for a bad barrel finish and got it back and was happy with what was done. Apparently he hadn't shot the gun before sending the gun back for the cosmetic issue. Had he, and told S&W about the chamber issues too the first time, maybe he would still be happy.

Originally Posted by DirtyHarold

I JUST got this gun back on Friday from S&W after sending it in the first time because the barrel finish quality was terrible. They sent it back with a new barrel, I was happy,

Take your car in for a brake job, and if they don't find that the trunk latch doesn't always work, who's fault is it? Should S&W had found the sticky extraction issue? I dunno. Could be the ammo they use for the two test shots didn't exhibit sticky extraction. Could be the fact that two empties always extract easier than 5. Again, I'm betting the rough action is because of the cases dragging on the recoil shield after firing. BTDT. I don't like Hornady brass in .460, never had good results from reloading it. Never had issues with factory 200s tho. The fact that the OP thought to use a pair of pliers to remove the spent brass tells me of a unfamiliarity with revolvers and how they work. While this did not contribute to the sticky brass, it may have had other consequences.

I hope when the revolver comes back, the OP is happy and the issue resolved. I love my .460, and am impressed with it's accuracy every time I shoot it. It is however, a whole different animal than most other handgun calibers, and I shoot a lot of others. Some of the P.C. models are known for tight throats, which can result in higher pressure and sticky extraction. While I have good luck reloading Starline brass several times for my .460, I don't reload Hornady brass more than twice.....period, because of it's tendency for case head separation, exactly where the bulge is on the OPs ammo. The .460 is not like your family mini-van. It's more like a hopped up muscle car with a High Compression engine.....

[stinkeypete]

Harold, regarding the cylinder not turning..

Can we see a picture of your primers?
Primers can back out from flush and drag. That’s an ammunition flaw.

Of greatest concern is the swollen brass. That could be a danger sign of either too hot a load or improper manufacture of the cylinder. The entire casing could be backing out and I’ve never seen that.

The reason I am not thinking that the cylinder not revolving is not important is that it protects you from shooting an entire cylinder in what I personally think is an unsafe overpressure situation.

[DirtyHarold]

Originally Posted by stinkeypete

Harold, regarding the cylinder not turning..



Can we see a picture of your primers?

Primers can back out from flush and drag. That’s an ammunition flaw.



Of greatest concern is the swollen brass. That could be a danger sign of either too hot a load or improper manufacture of the cylinder. The entire casing could be backing out and I’ve never seen that.



The reason I am not thinking that the cylinder not revolving is not important is that it protects you from shooting an entire cylinder in what I personally think is an unsafe overpressure situation.

I don’t have pictures of the primers but none backed out some have flattened out pretty good but they’re all still flush with the case. Not all of them have flattened out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rodfac]

Clean your chambers. Cordless drill, brass brush, and use some Ed's Red cleaner while doing it. If after that you're still having extraction issues, send it back to S&W.

Good advice....but...the cylinders must be completely free of oil prior to firing.

Oil allows the case to set back against the recoil shield which may tie up the gun. High pressure cartridges are more prone to this than say a .38 Spl., but I've had it happen with a .45 Colt when I was less than attentive during cleaning.

After cleaning, and before firing, wipe the cylinder chambers out with an alcohol soaked patch, followed by a dry one. Years ago, this information was in the printed S&W owner's manual.

If the chambers are indeed scratched or retain tool marks from the manuf. process, you can smooth them up with a tight fitting patch on a cleaning jag thoroughly soaked with JB Bore Paste, or the Remington equivalent. Use a low speed hand drill and keep that paste away from the chamber mouths, it'll round them off and may adversely affect accuracy.

[4V50 Gary]

I presume that the cylinder rotates when empty?

As suggested, it could be the firing pin being stuck in the primer. Normally after the trigger is released, the hammer resets and is pushed back by the seat of the rebound slide.

I'm also wondering if the hand is failing to come out of the window to engage the notches of the extractor?

Got dummy rounds? Check the barrel cylinder gap between the cylinder face and the forcing cone. Then with the dummies check the space between the base of the dummy and the recoil shield.

I don't have any reloading handbooks in front of me. What are the case dimensions for the .460 and the 45 Long Colt?

[buck460XVR]

Originally Posted by rodfac

Good advice....but...the cylinders must be completely free of oil prior to firing.

Oil allows the case to set back against the recoil shield which may tie up the gun. High pressure cartridges are more prone to this than say a .38 Spl., but I've had it happen with a .45 Colt when I was less than attentive during cleaning.

After cleaning, and before firing, wipe the cylinder chambers out with an alcohol soaked patch, followed by a dry one. Years ago, this information was in the printed S&W owner's manual.

Kinda what I've been trying to say from the start........

Sometimes when extraction is sticky, the cases are pushed back against the recoil shield and because they don't slide forward again, drag on the recoil shield and make the action feel like your explanation.

Again if the action is smooth with the chamber empty and before firing any rounds, I'm gonna stick with my first guess and say the sticky cases are rubbing against the recoil shield after firing and making the action hard/rough. I'm saying this from experience. I've found with my .460 that any excess oil in the chamber or excess polish on the cases will give the same appearance on the case walls(not the scratches)after firing as your picture shows. The heat produced tends to burn it off and this too can add to sticky extraction.

....as I said....BTDT. I'm not taking the WAG like many of the others are here. The combination of sticky extraction and the difficulty in moving the action after firing pretty much tells me(after many thousands of rounds thru a .460) what's going on unless the extractor rod has loosened, which does happen often unless locktite is applied with .460s. I check mine every time I load the cylinder.

Protruding primers in a revolver after the shot is usually caused by too little pressure. Primers in revolvers generally always get pushed out a tad upon firing, but get pushed back in flush, when the case hits the recoil shield. The firing pin is not going to "stick" in the primer unless the primer has been pierced. As for the hand not engaging in the notches? I'm thinking there'd be a serious timing issue when the gun is fired and a good chance of the cylinder being blown off....not just the action getting rough.