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Old December 29, 2000, 10:09 PM   #1
WildBill, Jr.
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Okay, 'smiths', how easy or how difficult is it to change a S&W PC627 mainspring with a new Wolff power rib mainspring? My objective is too lighten the DA trigger pull but keep the SA pull around the factory 3#. I received Wolff's reduced power mainspring and rebound spring kit (12 - 15#) and wanted to experiment with this and to learn a little about changing these springs out myself. Am I in over my head or is this simple enough to do after your expert instructions? I'm certainly not that proud to where I won't take it to a gunsmith if needed, but would just like to learn a little. I'm a do-it-yourselfer and mechanically inclined, but didn't want to just jump into a new field. Thanking you in advance for your honesty and any info you are willing to part with on this matter.......WildBill, Jr.
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Old December 30, 2000, 12:14 AM   #2
burrhead
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Remove the sideplate screws with an appropriate screwdriver. Remove the grips. DO NOT PRY OFF THE SIDEPLATE! You'll bend it. Place your thumb over the plate (to keep it from flying off) and tap on the grip frame with something non-maring (a wooden hammer handle). The side plate will vibrate loose after several taps.
Remove the mainspring tension screw from the front of the grip frame. Switch out the mainsprings and button everything back up. When you replace the strain screw, turn it till it stops. Take your time and don't get frustrated.
Shoot at least 200 rounds for fuction as you may have light primer hits.
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Old December 30, 2000, 11:35 AM   #3
Mike Irwin
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EXTREMELY easy, as Burrhead indicates.

Get yourself a copy of Jerry kuhnhausen's S&W Revolver shop manual.

One thing that Burrhead didn't mention, though, is that when you remove the screws, do so in a logical order, and REPLACE THEM IN THE SAME HOLE.

Also, just as with the lugnuts on a car, DO NOT snug down 1 screw completely. Do them 1 or 2 turns at a time, going around to each screw. This ensures that the side plate is tightened evenly, and helps prevent warping.

When replacing the side plate, you HAVE to have the hammer block in the correct position, or the sideplate won't install. Essentially, the nose of the hammer block should rest between the hammer and the frame.

One final note, but it is very important. The top of the sideplate (the area that is closest to the rear sight), has a small "hook" on it. You've got to get that hook under the frame first, or you'll scratch the frame trying to push it into place.

I saw one instance where a ham hand tried to get his Smith back together, and never noticed the hook. He pushed (or maybe hammered) on the side plate with so much force that he not only scratched the frame, he warped the sideplate AND bent the hook!

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Old December 30, 2000, 11:51 AM   #4
sw627pc
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As stated above, the mainspring isn't hard. The rebound spring can be another story, and it is really the piece that makes a big difference in the DA pull. This is a coil spring that sits in the steel block behind the trigger. Easy to remove (just get a hook, or a small screwdriver and pry or lift up from the back while being ready to catch the spring - a rag placed over the whole mess works well). Getting it back in without the special little pusher tool is not that difficult, but can be frustrating. Just make sure you get the little arm on the trigger lined up with the block when you install it. While you have the block out, look at the frame under it (where it slides). Clean well, stone out any tool marks (if any) and put a very thin layer of grease down. A thorough cleaning and relubrication while the sideplate is off can often feel like a complete trigger job. Some new S&W guns (the last three I've worked on) have enough "packing" preservative in them for a dozen guns. Removing this completely (it has a feel somewhere between old cosmoline and spar varnish) and then lubricating properly with something like Tetra or BreakFree works wonders.
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Old December 30, 2000, 12:06 PM   #5
Doug 29
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Just dry fire the gun MANY times! That will strengthen your muscles AND smooth that Smith & Wesson until it's smooth as butter! Forget changing the springs. I've done it all! The factory springs are fine. You don't need a "trigger job"! Just lots of dry firing! That's why the older guns seem so smooth. Don't misunderstand me. Changing the springs is very simple! It's just a futile exercize. BTW, Ed McGivern stayed with STOCK guns.
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Old December 30, 2000, 01:50 PM   #6
Mike Irwin
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McGivern really had no choice but to stick with stock guns. The aftermarket parts weren't available as they are today.

Replacing the springs will lighten the trigger pull by actually reducing the power of the springs. That's somehthing that can't be done by shooting it, at least not to the same degree.

I'll stick with working my guns over. I don't want to shoot 10 or 20,000 rounds through my gun before it really smooths up when I can spend 8 hours and really do it right.
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Old December 30, 2000, 05:13 PM   #7
Doug 29
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To each his own, Mike. It is important to have a trigger return spring that returns the trigger with speed. That's where the balks occur. And a good, solid smack of the primer is important for many reasons. But, the force required can be a matter of opinion. BTW, I was talking about DRY FIRING.
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Old December 30, 2000, 08:12 PM   #8
James K
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Hi, guys,

Two tips - (1) Loosen the tension on the mainspring strain screw before removing the sideplate, and don't tighten it back up until the side plate is back in place. This avoids strain on the hammer pin. (2) A small Phillips screwdriver works fine when installing the trigger return spring.

As for lighter springs, all gun makers use overkill on spring tension to make up for adverse conditions (cold, dirt, dust, hard primers, old grease, etc.) Using lighter springs removes some of that extra margin and (depending on what was done) the gun may not function at all or may not function in other than an ideal environment. Misfires on the range are a nuisance; under some other circumstances, they can be a bit more of a problem.

Smoothness and spring tension are not necessarily the same thing. Lighter springs reduce the effort involved in trigger pull, they do not make it smoother. Careful stoning can help smooth up a revolver, but if not done carefully can cut through the case hardening on S&W parts and allow rapid wear and even dangerous conditions.

Jim

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Old December 30, 2000, 08:21 PM   #9
C.R.Sam
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To each his own. I agree with Mike Irwin re gettin Jerry Kuenhausen's book.....and read it a few times.

I like light trigger return (rebound) spring. If using proper finger motion a light spring will reset just fine. If one is depending on the spring pressure to force the trigger finger forward, then stock is the way to stay.

I like stock hammer springs for defense guns and light ones for my show off guns.

If goin that deep anyway, good idea to stone all the edges off of the rebound spring block.

Smith triggers generally great stock and become wonderful with time. A little "fluff n buff" brings them up a notch better yet.

Sam.....follow me, I found a new way to get there.
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Old December 31, 2000, 01:06 AM   #10
WildBill, Jr.
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Man, I'm overwhelmed with the responses to this post. Thanks to all who replied with their knowledge, tips, and infinite wisdom. I will also see about getting a copy of that Jerry Kuenhausen's book. With you guys on the net ready to help and this book, a guy could do anything!!! with a S&W revolver that is....... Terrific instructions and thanks again. WildBill, Jr.
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Old January 1, 2001, 12:03 PM   #11
Doug 29
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I'll resist the temptation to argue with Sam and Mike and simply say that every revolver shooter should have a copy of "Fast and Fancy Revolver Shooting" by Ed McGivern. It's the BIBLE for double action shooting! That book, and Keith's "Sixguns", are the two best books on handguns ever written. Most of the current stuff is garbage! Yes, I AM a cantankerous old man.
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Old January 1, 2001, 09:36 PM   #12
C.R.Sam
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Hi Doug....no arguement from me re McGivern.. However, he was a rather exceptional shooter. His accuracy and native understanding of ballistics was phenomonal. He seemed to be able to picture the projectile path in relation to the sights from three feet to three hundred yards. I think he could outshoot most with triggers that many mere mortals would refuse to shoot with. I like the seven or ten yard drill puttin a cylinder load, on target, in a group the size of my (small) hand in about a second. Not up to his speed or accuracy but likely to stop a single bad guy. Double taps on multiple targets. I can not do that with a trigger that is not only butter smooth but also on the light side. I want the same guns to be able to let me get an eyeball hit double action at fifteen yards. Again, takes smooth trigger and preferably on the light side. That's the way I am.

Aside from deburring and polishing, I often leave the hammer spring stock and at most take a turn n a half off of the rebound spring. Nothing radical, but the difference improves my accuracy considerably.

Sam....let's have a cantankerii shoot, twood be a hoot. Probably prove everybody right.
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Old January 2, 2001, 12:16 AM   #13
James K
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How to

Here are a couple of things I do. I trim the sides (not the flat) of the mainspring. The exact amount is a matter of experience. I keep the strain screw in all the way. I roll the trigger spring on a belt sander or take 1 1/2 turns off. I polish things without cutting through the case hardening. Then I mill or grind shallow lengthwise slots in the inside and bottom of the rebound slide to reduce friction. I may take a little off the cylinder stop spring. And that is about it. I will polish grooves off the trigger if wanted for DA shooting.

Jim
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Old October 20, 2001, 07:51 PM   #14
jtduncan
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Getting SidePlate Back On?

I really used a lot of your tips to help me change my mainspring and my rebound spring to a 14# one in my SW 625.

Thanks!

And even slicked up the rebound slide block too.

Now if I can only put it back.

But when I tried putting back on the sideplate, it wouldn't seem to lie flush for all of the screws.

I tried different positions with the hammer block as well. And the front screw with the pointed end has some dried up red loctite I believe.

I remember somone stating you have to press it on and to be careful about the top hook. I was. But I still don't want to mess up.

What can I do for this revolver and get that darned sideplate back on?
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Old October 21, 2001, 12:06 PM   #15
Ed Brunner
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If it came off, it has to go back on.

If you "set the hook" and the plate doesn't fit, it most likely is the trigger block not being in its slot.
"If it don't fit, don't force it."
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Old October 21, 2001, 03:39 PM   #16
jtduncan
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So what is the trick or the position the hammer block is supposed to be in?
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Old October 21, 2001, 05:17 PM   #17
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jtduncan

The inside of the side plate has a groove in it for the hammer block to ride in, with the plate at an angle, as you are setting the hook at the top of the frame, engage the hammer block in that groove. The other end of the hammer block must be on the small pin on the rebound spring slide. It is a little tricky, but knowing the pin on the rebound spring slide is what makes the hammer block go up, will help you.

Like someone else said, DON'T USE FORCE, WHEN IT IS RIGHT EVERY THING WILL WORK... TRY THE TRIGGER PULL BEFORE YOU TIGHTEN THE SCREWS, if the hammer block is out of place ,, it will not work......


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Old October 22, 2001, 02:16 PM   #18
jtduncan
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Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.
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