M91/30 Rear Sight Problems

CommissarHark · April 18, 2014, 05:51 PM

So I'm turning my m91/30 into a scout rifle. I've already shortened the barrel, put it in the new Archangel stock, and now I'm trying to add the scope mount. Its the brass stacker model that goes over the rear sight block, by way of replacing the two pins that keep the block mounted to the barrel. I was able to punch out the forward one of the two pins, but the rearward one is giving me issues. I've heard that sometimes the pins were soldered in, but I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of them only soldering one pin? My big question is however, would it be a bad idea to just drill out the rear pin, I don't mind losing it, since I don't have access to a torch to heat it for removal, and I don't have the money to pay to get it done? Any suggestions or comments? Also before anyone asks, I'd be more than happy to put up pictures of the finished rifle when it's done.

kraigwy · April 19, 2014, 08:33 AM

I don't know if the pin is soldiered or not.

But I can tell you how to make a soldiering iron that will melt soldier if that is what you need. I grew up poor and we had to make our own soldiering irons among other tools.

Find a D cell battery (a dead one will work). Take the battery apart until you have a carbon rod that goes through the battery.

Sharpen one end of the rod (like you would a pencil) by rubbing it on a file or stone while turning it.

Take a coated rod and rap several coils around the rod, leaving long pieces exposed on each end of the wire (the coils on the rod will be from the middle of the wire).

Now attach one end of the wire to your car batteries neg post. The other the positive post. The rod is going to get hot, how hot depends on how many coils of wire you have on the carbon rod.

The rod should get hot enough to melt soldier. Hold the pointed in on the pin you suspect is soldiered until it gets hot enough to melt the soldier and push the pin out.

But again, I don't know if the pin is soldiered in or not. If the pin isn't soldiered you can move the point of the carbon rod around the pin (being careful not to touch the pin, and it will heat the metal causing it to expand which should allow you to push the pin out.

Garyshome · April 19, 2014, 01:34 PM

I don't think it is soldered in Mine wasn't but the rear site was. but I love the home made solder iron post.

Nemsis · April 23, 2014, 06:02 PM

I guess it's too late since you bought the brass Stacker mount already but I used a UTG 1pc 3/8" dovetail mount for .22's to mount my scout scope.

April 18, 2014, 05:51 PM	#1
CommissarHark Member Join Date: March 27, 2013 Posts: 15	M91/30 Rear Sight Problems So I'm turning my m91/30 into a scout rifle. I've already shortened the barrel, put it in the new Archangel stock, and now I'm trying to add the scope mount. Its the brass stacker model that goes over the rear sight block, by way of replacing the two pins that keep the block mounted to the barrel. I was able to punch out the forward one of the two pins, but the rearward one is giving me issues. I've heard that sometimes the pins were soldered in, but I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of them only soldering one pin? My big question is however, would it be a bad idea to just drill out the rear pin, I don't mind losing it, since I don't have access to a torch to heat it for removal, and I don't have the money to pay to get it done? Any suggestions or comments? Also before anyone asks, I'd be more than happy to put up pictures of the finished rifle when it's done.

April 19, 2014, 08:33 AM	#2
kraigwy Senior Member Join Date: June 16, 2008 Location: Wyoming Posts: 11,061	I don't know if the pin is soldiered or not. But I can tell you how to make a soldiering iron that will melt soldier if that is what you need. I grew up poor and we had to make our own soldiering irons among other tools. Find a D cell battery (a dead one will work). Take the battery apart until you have a carbon rod that goes through the battery. Sharpen one end of the rod (like you would a pencil) by rubbing it on a file or stone while turning it. Take a coated rod and rap several coils around the rod, leaving long pieces exposed on each end of the wire (the coils on the rod will be from the middle of the wire). Now attach one end of the wire to your car batteries neg post. The other the positive post. The rod is going to get hot, how hot depends on how many coils of wire you have on the carbon rod. The rod should get hot enough to melt soldier. Hold the pointed in on the pin you suspect is soldiered until it gets hot enough to melt the soldier and push the pin out. But again, I don't know if the pin is soldiered in or not. If the pin isn't soldiered you can move the point of the carbon rod around the pin (being careful not to touch the pin, and it will heat the metal causing it to expand which should allow you to push the pin out. __________________ Kraig Stuart CPT USAR Ret USAMU Sniper School Distinguished Rifle Badge 1071

April 19, 2014, 01:34 PM	#3
Garyshome Junior Member Join Date: April 18, 2014 Posts: 10	Soldered pin I don't think it is soldered in Mine wasn't but the rear site was. but I love the home made solder iron post.

April 23, 2014, 06:02 PM	#4
Nemsis Senior Member Join Date: December 27, 2006 Location: Peoples Republic of Chicago Posts: 408	I guess it's too late since you bought the brass Stacker mount already but I used a UTG 1pc 3/8" dovetail mount for .22's to mount my scout scope. __________________ "The American people will never knowingly adopt Socialism. But under the name of 'liberalism' they will adopt every fragment of the Socialist program, until one day America will be a Socialist nation, without knowing how it happened." --Norman Thomas