Should I trade out my 586 for an N frame?

[Chainsaw.]

I had to get a 357 in blue, because, you have to have one, Right? So I went with a 586, 4" with the full lug. Looks great. Shoots fine. Trigger is pretty good. But, I find the L frame to be a bit sparse for real estate. I have pretty big hands and I find that everything about my 629 N frame so much more comfortable. Ive been thinking of trading out the 586 for a blued N frame in 357. So give me your opinion, am I nuts? Go for it? Thoughts? Etc etc.

[CajunBass]

From a practical standpoint, I'd say just swap out the grips, but if you like the big N frame gun, I can understand that. Personally, I don't care for the full lug barrel found on the 5/6 series of L-frames.

Just to tease a bit.

Model 27-2, 4" barrel.





(No, the grips are not mismatched)

I say if you want an "N" get one.

[UncleEd]

Is it the stocks that are too small.

Look for more hand filling stocks; check
Herrett and Altamont.

The N-frame grip area is not all that much
bigger but the trigger reach is a bit more.

I think you've got to consider what stocks
are on the 586 vs. the 29.

Personally I find the N-frame just at the
extreme for my hands but the L-frame or
K-frame, of course depending stock
circumference and size, much better.

[Sevens]

I think that while the Model 27 is absolutely gorgeous, a Model 28 is a "must own" because they made truckloads and they almost always have great prices on them. I would NEVER rid myself of a 586 for the purpose of getting another S&W revolver, I think that is a terrible idea.

I have two 28-2's. I'm somewhat particular about looks and I'd honestly say that 28's are pretty darn homely, but the 6-inch looks better than the 4-inch. It's the fat, stubby cylinder that makes them goofy looking (IMO) but the very utilitarian matte finish doesn't help a lot.

Yeah, I'm critical on the looks but at the same time, I just LOVE shooting my 28's.

Keep the 586, add a 6-inch 28-2.

[USSR]

Ive been thinking of trading out the 586 for a blued N frame in 357. So give me your opinion, am I nuts?

Yep, certifiably. How the heck are you ever gonna have a nice collection if you trade in one gun for another one?

Don

[rodfac]

Yep, certifiably. How the heck are you ever gonna have a nice collection if you trade in one gun for another one?

Pretty good advice...and if that big "N" frame doesn't suit you and you've sold the "L" or "K", then what. Good grip outfits have a variety of sizes that will fit your hands and still keep that light weight that endears the "K" frames to us all. Rod

[44 AMP]

If everything about your 629 suits you, and you want those same things in .357Mag, get one. Trade the gun that isn't "just right" for one that is.

I've never owned an L frame. Handled them a bit, and I don't like the balance. The books say they weigh exactly the same an the N-frame, but they balance differently for me, anyway.

I happen to think the 6" model 28 looks great. I like the satin blue finish better than the high luster blue of the 29 or 27.

Just personal taste. Don't care much for shiny pistols.

I would trade an L frame for an N frame in a heartbeat. And I've had K frame guns, too. Very good for some things, but not as good as an N frame for others.

[105kw]

Get the N frame, trade the L or sell it outright.

It fits me better, I would much rather have a model 27, or 28. Get a 3 1/2 inch or 4.

They are built strong, and to me feel a lot smoother in the action.

Years ago I weighed my 4. Inch model 28, and a 586 on a postal scale. The 586 weighed the same as my 28.

[buck460XVR]

I don't think I'd ever be without a L-Frame(have 4), even tho I have a coupla N-Frames and an X-Frame. I'd suggest trying some different grips. The big cushioned X-Frame grips from S&W also fit the L-Frames, and are only about $40.

[Scoits]

Yeh, love the 28 also but have been using an M&P R8 for several years. N frame with 8 rounds of 357 and 5” barrel. I prefer 5” barrels on my Ns. Balance better.

[rodfac]

I've never owned an L frame. Handled them a bit, and I don't like the balance. The books say they weigh exactly the same an the N-frame

44AMP. I wasn't aware of the weight similarity, but it makes sense considering the under barrel lug shape. Rod

[pete2]

Keep the L and buy an N. You need both. I bought a 625 JM some years ago, love the JM grips. I bought a set of JM grips for my 586, they are smaller than the N frame grips, will go back to Hogues for now.

[Bob Wright]

I believe once you shoot the two, L-Frame and N-Frame, you'll find the L-Frame to be the winner. It's cylinder is a trifle bit longer so you can use the heaviest of bullets without their protruding from the cylinder face. And I believe you'll find the L-Frame the perfect size for the .357 Magnum cartridge.



I've gone through K- and N- framed Smiths, Colts, including the vaunted Python, and, to me, the Model 586 is the very best .357 Magnum double action to come out yet. Though I must say I've no experience with the Ruger DA revolvers.

Bob Wright

[T. O'Heir]

Six of this half, dozen of the other. Depends on your budget. You can get bigger grips for the 'L' frame for a lot less than a whole 'N' frame. However, there is the "I want one." factor too.
Factory triggers are irrelevant. They all need work. Unless it's a Python.

[bamaranger]

I'll mention this as nobody has yet........the L-frame takes any K-frame grip. If your objection to the L-frame is the grip....I'd work on that, as there are a wide variety of Kgrips made.

'Course if a fella just really wants an N-frame.......

[Chainsaw.]

Hi again Gents, back from camping so let me respond to all of your input. First off, Thanks! I didn't even think that different grips would buy me real estate on an L frame, for as lottle as that will cost I'll give it a try for sure. And as some one said, yes I think the L frame is kinds of the right size for 357, would seem a lottle under bored on an N frame. BUT, I literally own no other oistol that fits me so well as my N frame. And on the thought of keeping the L frame and getting another N frame....well, you're honing in on how I work.

I've got alot of reading/learning to do.

[Cosmodragoon]

The big cushioned X-Frame grips from S&W also fit the L-Frames, and are only about $40.

I did this with a 686 and it made all the difference in the world. It covered the backstrap and stopped the transfer of magnum shock into my carpal tunnel. It moved my hand back just far enough for my long fingers to achieve optimal positioning for double-action shooting. It really helped it to become a comfortable shooter in .357 magnum.

[Rfactor]

I'd say keep the 586, and add a 6" 27 N frame, and a 21/2" 19 K frame. Then you have all three frames in the most common barrels.

[Drm50]

The older P&R N frames are smooth running and dependable revolvers. I don't
keep 4" or shorter guns in K or N frames. I'm not looking for 3lb gun to carry
for CCW. Python is a nice gun but not a better gun than a 27. The 27 will take
more use with full power loads than a Python. The lock work in S&Ws is more
durable than Colt. The L is not the gun Python is for fit and finish but it still is
a more durable gun. The 6 or 83/8" 27 is hard to beat for field & target. There
is nothing wrong with a 28 either and 6" guns are out there, most 4". I got a
6" 28 with Target Grips in presentation case / docs and tools in 90%+ for $650
recently. It's first cased one I ever saw. I have seen 28 prices starting to edge
up. I'm dabbling in S&W P&Rs daily and deals are getting harder to find.

[jmr40]

I sold my L frame guns after buying a Smith 28. It just isn't that much bigger and in fact is lighter without the full length recoil lug.

[44 AMP]

Model 28s didn't come from the factory with wood presentation boxes or target grips. 27s did, and since the 28 is the same size, will take the grips and fit in the same box.

A presentation wood case adds no value to me for a model 28. Looks pretty, but isn't something I would pay extra for. Unless you get a factory letter (Roy Jinks used to be the guy, but I don't know if he still is) stating your 28 left the factory with target stocks and a wood presentation case, they don't add any collector value. Actually the opposite.

I've got a 28-2 with the target hammer and trigger. Its my favorite DA centerfire revolver. I also have the factory (blue) box. (with the gun's serial # on it). My gun didn't leave the factory with that hammer & trigger, but it did get them put in before it was sold the first time.

S&W used to sell "bubble packs" (blister packs?) with the target hammer & trigger, and any gunsmith could put them in any model correct revolver.

They haven't done that for quite a few years now...

[J.G. Terry]

I got both. The 586 is a great revolver. It handles well and is accurate. No problems with mine. I have a Model 28 and 27. These guns are sufficiently different size to make a comparison hard. Handle both the guns at the same time. This difference will jump out at you. I recall that K and L frames use the same grips. It looks like the day of getting cheap Model 28's is in the past. I go for keeping the 586 and shopping around for a 27 or 28. The 586 was sold as being more handy than an N frame and stronger than a K frame 357.

[jmstr]

Didn't I hear that the N-Frame may, just may, go out of timing a hint faster, as there is more rotational weight in the cylinder [both being same caliber], as the cylinder is wider? IF I recall correctly, this would only happen under rapid DA trigger usage.


The L frame fits me, so it isn't an issue. If the reach to the trigger is fine, but the grips feel 'off', swap grips.

If the reach to the trigger feels too compact, and the grips feel dinky- then either get really filling grips or get an N frame.


I don't have any N frames. The largest I have are .44mag by Ruger: SRH. Those are also hefty.

Yet, I don't like the feel of my 586 as much as my GP100, or Colt 3 5 7 [yes, that IS a model: came out 2 years before colt added that vented barrel and called it a Python].

[44 AMP]

Didn't I hear that the N-Frame may, just may, go out of timing a hint faster, as there is more rotational weight in the cylinder [both being same caliber], as the cylinder is wider? IF I recall correctly, this would only happen under rapid DA trigger usage.

I have heard that, as well. Apparently some match shooters doing a LOT of speed shooting found out that the "heavy" N frame cylinder does "batter" the lockwork harder when you get it spinning fast. (more mass at speed, compared to smaller, lighter guns).

Most owners will never come even remotely close to shooting enough DA at speed for this to matter. When the police carried N frames, it was never an issue of concern for them. Basically, like any other quality gun, if you shoot it hard and fast enough to need a tune up, you've "bought" the gun a few times over in the cost of the ammo fired.