.45 loads for shooting steel.

rickdavis81 · October 6, 2008, 12:05 AM

I'm wanting to make my own steel plate targets to shoot. If I'm understanding right I need a lead bullet and light charge to avoid richochets. I currently load 230gr lead round nose bullets with 5grains of 7831 ( I believe thats the powder I've been using).Is that light enough or should I go lighter? I'm shooting out of a Spingfield XD 4". Also how thick and what type of steel should I use? Is there a safe minimum distance?

45Marlin carbine · October 6, 2008, 08:31 AM

I have made many steel targets useing 6" discs of 5/16 hot rolled.
I welded a 4' piece of 1/2" rod on each side then 1' from the bottom end a cross piece to 'stomp' into the ground with.
the discs were cast-off pieces from the backs of wood burning stoves I make - the hole for the thimble to weld in.
I won't advise as to loads but to say that cast slugs will 'bounce' or 'ricochet' some. less so if the target has some 'swing' or 'give' in it. I shot FMJ slugs some also, the jacket dropped near the target but the core would be knocked out and travel sometimes as much as 30'. of course it was mashed flat.
cast slugs if they hit squarely on the plate would badly deform but still travel aways, most dropped right there. I used 5 gr Bullseyes which is nearly a factory load for both cast and ball slugs.
I suppose you could install a lighter recoil spring and then use lightly loaded rounds.

Sturmgewehre · October 6, 2008, 09:10 AM

I have used 230gr lead hard cast bullets sitting over 5gr of Bullseye. I also use 200gr SWC sitting over 4.6gr of Bullseye. Both work well for shooting steel plates.

The trick is keeping the velocity up so that the lead splatters when it hits steel. I've never had a bullet come back on me, but you will get splatter. Always wear glasses when shooting steel, no exceptions.

As mentioned, be sure your target has some movement to it. My plates hang with a spring between them and the poll held together with a bolt. This allows the plates to swing slightly rearward on impact. What's left of the slug (flat sliver of lead) winds up laying on the ground directly below the plate.

Loader9 · October 6, 2008, 10:52 AM

There is no load that won't possibly come back to you when shooting steel. I hang my plates from the back which means they are not hanging straight down but at an angle to the front to deflect the bullets to the ground. I still have one occasionally come back but so far, only at speeds enough to pop you but not break the skin. Just be careful and know it's gonna happen if you're shooting any kind of steel.

rickdavis81 · October 6, 2008, 07:11 PM

Thanks for the info. I guess now I just need to get out to the shop and build some targets.

October 6, 2008, 12:05 AM	#1
rickdavis81 Senior Member Join Date: April 3, 2006 Location: Missouri Posts: 398	.45 loads for shooting steel. I'm wanting to make my own steel plate targets to shoot. If I'm understanding right I need a lead bullet and light charge to avoid richochets. I currently load 230gr lead round nose bullets with 5grains of 7831 ( I believe thats the powder I've been using).Is that light enough or should I go lighter? I'm shooting out of a Spingfield XD 4". Also how thick and what type of steel should I use? Is there a safe minimum distance?

October 6, 2008, 09:10 AM	#3
Sturmgewehre Senior Member Join Date: December 12, 2006 Location: Indiana Posts: 4,212	I have used 230gr lead hard cast bullets sitting over 5gr of Bullseye. I also use 200gr SWC sitting over 4.6gr of Bullseye. Both work well for shooting steel plates. The trick is keeping the velocity up so that the lead splatters when it hits steel. I've never had a bullet come back on me, but you will get splatter. Always wear glasses when shooting steel, no exceptions. As mentioned, be sure your target has some movement to it. My plates hang with a spring between them and the poll held together with a bolt. This allows the plates to swing slightly rearward on impact. What's left of the slug (flat sliver of lead) winds up laying on the ground directly below the plate. __________________ Visit my YouTube channel for reviews, tests and more. Ex Mea Sententia

October 6, 2008, 08:31 AM	#2
45Marlin carbine Junior member Join Date: January 26, 2007 Location: South-Western North Carolina Posts: 1,124	I have made many steel targets useing 6" discs of 5/16 hot rolled. I welded a 4' piece of 1/2" rod on each side then 1' from the bottom end a cross piece to 'stomp' into the ground with. the discs were cast-off pieces from the backs of wood burning stoves I make - the hole for the thimble to weld in. I won't advise as to loads but to say that cast slugs will 'bounce' or 'ricochet' some. less so if the target has some 'swing' or 'give' in it. I shot FMJ slugs some also, the jacket dropped near the target but the core would be knocked out and travel sometimes as much as 30'. of course it was mashed flat. cast slugs if they hit squarely on the plate would badly deform but still travel aways, most dropped right there. I used 5 gr Bullseyes which is nearly a factory load for both cast and ball slugs. I suppose you could install a lighter recoil spring and then use lightly loaded rounds.

October 6, 2008, 10:52 AM	#4
Loader9 Senior Member Join Date: July 29, 2008 Posts: 949	There is no load that won't possibly come back to you when shooting steel. I hang my plates from the back which means they are not hanging straight down but at an angle to the front to deflect the bullets to the ground. I still have one occasionally come back but so far, only at speeds enough to pop you but not break the skin. Just be careful and know it's gonna happen if you're shooting any kind of steel.

October 6, 2008, 07:11 PM	#5
rickdavis81 Senior Member Join Date: April 3, 2006 Location: Missouri Posts: 398	Thanks for the info. I guess now I just need to get out to the shop and build some targets.