winchester 100 stock revoval

[bobbg]

Hello
I am trying to remove the stock from my winchester model 100 for refinishing.
So far I havent been successful. Would anyone have the instructions for this task? I inquired on another post but since it was an old post I am repeating the question here. I hope this is acceptable. Thanks in advance for help with this.
Bobbg

[johnbt]

Have you removed 6388 from the stock; it's the long screw at the bottom of the pic?

www.wisnersinc.com/explodedviews/Winc-100.htm

[bobbg]

John, thanks for the reply. Yes I have removed the screw from the rear of the stock. The stock is loose but will not seperate from the gun. There has to be an out of sight fastner somewhere. Any info appreciated.
Bobb

[bobbg]

John, thanks for the reply. Yes I have removed the screw from the rear of the stock. The stock is loose but will not seperate from the gun. There has to be an out of sight fastner somewhere. Any info appreciated.
Bobb

[johnbt]

I haven't seen one of these taken apart in 30 or 40 years. No wonder I don't remember how to take one apart. My, how the years go by. John (edited for spelling)

http://www.wisnersinc.com/additional...erl_88_100.htm

MODEL 100 DISASSEMBLY: The proper disassembly of the model 100 is to first remove the magazine, then remove the forearm screw AND the trigger guard screw behind the trigger guard. Now pull the operating handle all the way to the rear. While holding it to the rear, pivot the barrel unit up out of the stock. The rear of the receiver is held in place by it fitting in a notch in the recoil block in the stock. The reason that the operating handle has to be rearward is to allow enough clearance for the side rods from the handle to the gas cylinder unit to clear the slot in the forearm section. Since these rods are hidden in the forearm with wood covering them except when the handle is pulled all the way back.

If the gas cylinder is rusted so tightly into the operating slide assembly that it can not be pulled rearward, there is one solution. You will by now have some movement of the barrel away from the forearm. Select a long punch that will go in between the barrel & the forearm. Locate the small retainer ring that locks the gas cylinder sleeve/plug in place, hit it hard enough with the punch to break it. Now you can use a large long screwdriver to engage the slot on the end of this plug, unscrew it. You should now be able to move the operating handle to the rear. What you have done is to remove the “cap nut” that holds the gas cylinder into the barrels gas lug, the cylinder being rusted in the operating handle, it will now be retracted out of the lug, allowing the handle to be retracted. This information supplied by a long-time Winchester warranty gunsmith Walter Lodewick.

MODEL 100 OPERATING HANDLE FREE BUT NOT RETRACTING ALL THE WAY :- This usually can be attributed to the owner trying to disassemble the gun using the thought that the trigger housing will come out first from the bottom. They can not get it to come out (usually bending the side rails) so they reassemble it, only to now find that the handle will not operate. What they have done is that the safety somehow got pushed off, in the process, they pulled the trigger & not knowing what has just happened, when they retightened this unit the hammer’s top rear corner is now bound up between the bolt sleeve & the head on the rear of the firing pin. The trick is now to remove the rear guard screw, pry the trigger guard assembly down far enough to reach inside & recock the hammer with a long hooked rod.

[bobbg]

John
Thanks so much for the informantion. It allowed the stock to seperate from the gun. I am new to this forum and have found it to be a wealth of information along with a great bunch of guys willing to help the unknowing like myself. A special thanks to Harley for hosting this asset.
Bobbg

[johnbt]

You're welcome, I'm glad it worked out. There's always something new to learn.

John

[jroth]

accuracy of the M100.

If you feel like it,
you can glas-bed the gasblock in the reciever to minimize movement, be sure to
leave a channel under the block to permit the gas tappped off to release and exit.
Then insure that the barrel does not touch the channel.

Then just inside the barrel channel where the barrel screw come through, rout for two 3/16 recesses on opposite sides, fill with glasbed and screw together over two business card place at the foreend.
Finally, rout out the back half of the hole where the barrel fitting accepts the retaining screw and place a amount of glasbedding here ( INSURE THE FITTING & SCREW IS WELL COATED WITH RELEASE AGENT)
What you are trying to due is form a mating are for the taper portion and dovetail area to have mating permament area. Put two business cards under the foreend and barrel and lightly screw the stock and barrel together.

Did this to my m100's, they will cloverleaf three rounds at 200yds, prone.

[bobbg]

Thanks for the information on improving accuracy of the M100. This sounds like it may be a little complicated for a rooky like me. The rifle is pretty close on as it it although it won't do cloverleafs at 200yds.
bobbg

[Bill308]

On this old thread, jroth wrote:

"you can glas-bed the gasblock in the reciever to minimize movement, be sure to leave a channel under the block to permit the gas tappped off to release and exit. Then insure that the barrel does not touch the channel."

Can someone help me understand what the "gasblock" is. I don't see a part identified with this name on the parts diagram. There is a "recoil block" identified. There is a metal block on the barrell that the gas piston goes through, but it is not close to the receiver.

Bill

www.wisnersinc.com/explodedviews/Winc-100.htm

[dan jennings]

jroth, what ammo were you shooting to shoot a cloverleaf at 200 yds? mine won,t cloverleaf at any distance. i am having a hard time figuring out how to use this forum, so i beg forgiveness if i am screwing it up.