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July 4, 2018, 05:46 AM | #26 |
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Join Date: August 25, 2006
Posts: 1,819
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Mine has the enclosed shroud. Good info, Thanks!
Last edited by shurshot; July 4, 2018 at 05:57 AM. |
July 4, 2018, 06:59 PM | #27 |
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Join Date: May 13, 2002
Posts: 1,053
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You are welcome.
“Generally” force is not the first option to remedy a revolver problem. Sometimes it is. If a hot round forces primer flow into the firing pin hole, a judicious tap with a Babbitt or a rubber mallet IS the answer. |
July 4, 2018, 09:33 PM | #28 |
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Join Date: March 11, 2006
Location: Upper US
Posts: 28,846
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Please note that between 59-62 S&W changed the ejector rod threads of K and N frame models from right hand to LEFT HAND THREAD.
No mention was made in the reference to thread changes in J frame models. SO, if you're trying to screw the ejector rod back together to unjam the gun, make sure you turn it the correct way.
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All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better. |
July 5, 2018, 12:51 PM | #29 |
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Join Date: October 11, 1999
Location: One of the original 13 Colonies
Posts: 2,281
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My Method for screwing the ejector rod back in is to use a piece of stiff cardboard to depress the cylinder bolt. Then take a pencil with eraser and use the eraser to hold the end of the ejector rod, and rotate the cylinder by hand to screw the rod back in.
If the "gunsmith" used a rubber mallet to force the cylinder open he could have bent or damaged the center pin. |
July 5, 2018, 03:24 PM | #30 |
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Join Date: August 25, 2006
Posts: 1,819
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Well, a rubber mallet was used, and my model 10 is still running strong (nothing bent), and if I recall, it jammed prior to Clinton being elected. Guess I got lucky.
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