Reloading 762x54r

aeonrevolution · February 28, 2009, 12:21 AM

So, basically I want to try and replicate the Sellier and Bellot Match rounds by reloading.

I don't mean the exact same parts, but I want to try to get the bullet I create in the same ballpark.

This will be my first time delving into the handloading experience. I was going to start by buying the $95 kit from Lee then buying the specific dye for the 54r round. After that I will need advice on the different types of bullets and powders.

I like www.wideners.com quite a bit for their selection and prices.

Lemme know guys! Thanks.

NuJudge · February 28, 2009, 08:50 AM

Sellier & Bellot's website, a 174gr HPBT at 2615 fps:
http://www.sb-usa.com/rifle_pages/sba76208_spec.htm

Natchez has it for about $26 a box:
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm...08&src=tpCtgAm

You may find that the costs of handloading will not amortize out for a long while. If you are going to do this, plug all your choices into an on-line calculator and see whether it is worth it for you. Here are several:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=18835
http://10xshooters.com/calculators/R...Calculator.htm

Make sure you have the patience for this. Make sure you understand the dangers inherent: you can blow yourself up. It would be good for you to do this for awhile on someone else's equipment, under their supervision. If you do this, you need to keep curious, especially young curious persons, away.

I've bought a lot of stuff from Widener's. I also buy a lot of stuff from MidSouth, Natchez and Midway.

There are a lot of .311" and .312" bullets in that weight range out there, some are match quality. I have some of the Sierra 174 HPBT:
http://www.natchezss.com/Bullets.cfm...20%28%2E311%29

I like to shoot the 180gr Sierra, if only because it shoots as well as the 174gr HPBT:
http://www.natchezss.com/Bullets.cfm...20%28%2E311%29

I also like the .312" 150gr Hornady:
http://www.natchezss.com/Bullets.cfm...2E7%20Japanese

I shoot a lot more cast 200gr bullets, which cost me nothing. I've been having some pain issues in my right shoulder recently, and their lower performance gives me less pain.

The cheapest, but quality, brass is here:
http://www.grafs.com/product/237513

With my Lapua brass, I like Hodgdon or IMR 4350, work up to about 50 grains with the 180gr Sierra and up to about 53 gr with the Hornady. I don't know what S&B brass is like, and it may like heavier or lighter powder charges. I would suggest buying primers and powder locally, or the HazMat charges will eat you alive.

The critical pieces of equipment beginners most often leave out are a case trimmer and good Vernier calipers.

If you are shooting this ammo in just one rifle, and speed of manipulating the bolt is not a problem, you can neck size only and brass will last a lot longer. If you do need to work the bolt quickly (eg hunting or rapid fire in matches) you may be able to extend case life by only partially full-length sizing.

There are a lot of threads about beginning reloading. Read a bunch of them before you buy anything. Scrounge what you can. Buy used equipment from major manufacurers and you will rarely go wrong (look on Craigs List and other such).

Tom2 · February 28, 2009, 09:04 AM

If you find a load that shoots like match ammo in your rifle, well I think it can pay off reasonably, if you look at the price of premium ammo that performs the same versus cheap stuff. With the MN, it is just a little more complicated, due to the fact that the bores on the MN are reputed to be more variable than, say, a factory made sporter. So a load that shoots good in one rifle might not shoot so well in another MN. Some recommend you slug your bore, probably not a bad idea. Some loading manuals just chicken out. They use .308 bullets in MN to be on the safe side, but warn that if the bore is larger that the loads probably won't be very accurate anyway. So you can buy bullets that are like .311, or 313 maybe. But that would require checking the bore size. Or if the S&B load is good for you, mike the size of the bullets in the load. I have miked some of the surplus ammo bullets, and they are variable also. Like some are only 310 or a little under that, but shoot fine in the MN. There is plenty of loading data for the round, you should stick to proven formulas, but bullet choice could be more complicated due to the variables.

NuJudge · February 28, 2009, 10:13 AM

Hodgdon, IMR & Winchester:
http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp

Accurate Arms:
http://www.accuratepowder.com/data/P...page%20286.pdf

Real Guns:
http://www.realguns.com/loads/762x54r.htm

Chuck Hawks:
http://www.chuckhawks.com/30Russian.htm

February 28, 2009, 12:21 AM	#1
aeonrevolution Senior Member Join Date: August 19, 2008 Location: St. Louis Posts: 150	Reloading 762x54r So, basically I want to try and replicate the Sellier and Bellot Match rounds by reloading. I don't mean the exact same parts, but I want to try to get the bullet I create in the same ballpark. This will be my first time delving into the handloading experience. I was going to start by buying the $95 kit from Lee then buying the specific dye for the 54r round. After that I will need advice on the different types of bullets and powders. I like www.wideners.com quite a bit for their selection and prices. Lemme know guys! Thanks. __________________ My guitars go to 11.

February 28, 2009, 08:50 AM	#2
NuJudge Member Join Date: October 17, 2005 Location: SE Michigan Posts: 86	Sellier & Bellot's website, a 174gr HPBT at 2615 fps: http://www.sb-usa.com/rifle_pages/sba76208_spec.htm Natchez has it for about $26 a box: http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm...08&src=tpCtgAm You may find that the costs of handloading will not amortize out for a long while. If you are going to do this, plug all your choices into an on-line calculator and see whether it is worth it for you. Here are several: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=18835 http://10xshooters.com/calculators/R...Calculator.htm Make sure you have the patience for this. Make sure you understand the dangers inherent: you can blow yourself up. It would be good for you to do this for awhile on someone else's equipment, under their supervision. If you do this, you need to keep curious, especially young curious persons, away. I've bought a lot of stuff from Widener's. I also buy a lot of stuff from MidSouth, Natchez and Midway. There are a lot of .311" and .312" bullets in that weight range out there, some are match quality. I have some of the Sierra 174 HPBT: http://www.natchezss.com/Bullets.cfm...20%28%2E311%29 I like to shoot the 180gr Sierra, if only because it shoots as well as the 174gr HPBT: http://www.natchezss.com/Bullets.cfm...20%28%2E311%29 I also like the .312" 150gr Hornady: http://www.natchezss.com/Bullets.cfm...2E7%20Japanese I shoot a lot more cast 200gr bullets, which cost me nothing. I've been having some pain issues in my right shoulder recently, and their lower performance gives me less pain. The cheapest, but quality, brass is here: http://www.grafs.com/product/237513 With my Lapua brass, I like Hodgdon or IMR 4350, work up to about 50 grains with the 180gr Sierra and up to about 53 gr with the Hornady. I don't know what S&B brass is like, and it may like heavier or lighter powder charges. I would suggest buying primers and powder locally, or the HazMat charges will eat you alive. The critical pieces of equipment beginners most often leave out are a case trimmer and good Vernier calipers. If you are shooting this ammo in just one rifle, and speed of manipulating the bolt is not a problem, you can neck size only and brass will last a lot longer. If you do need to work the bolt quickly (eg hunting or rapid fire in matches) you may be able to extend case life by only partially full-length sizing. There are a lot of threads about beginning reloading. Read a bunch of them before you buy anything. Scrounge what you can. Buy used equipment from major manufacurers and you will rarely go wrong (look on Craigs List and other such). Last edited by NuJudge; February 28, 2009 at 08:54 PM.

February 28, 2009, 09:04 AM	#3
Tom2 Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 5,676	If you find a load that shoots like match ammo in your rifle, well I think it can pay off reasonably, if you look at the price of premium ammo that performs the same versus cheap stuff. With the MN, it is just a little more complicated, due to the fact that the bores on the MN are reputed to be more variable than, say, a factory made sporter. So a load that shoots good in one rifle might not shoot so well in another MN. Some recommend you slug your bore, probably not a bad idea. Some loading manuals just chicken out. They use .308 bullets in MN to be on the safe side, but warn that if the bore is larger that the loads probably won't be very accurate anyway. So you can buy bullets that are like .311, or 313 maybe. But that would require checking the bore size. Or if the S&B load is good for you, mike the size of the bullets in the load. I have miked some of the surplus ammo bullets, and they are variable also. Like some are only 310 or a little under that, but shoot fine in the MN. There is plenty of loading data for the round, you should stick to proven formulas, but bullet choice could be more complicated due to the variables. __________________ Your gun is like your nose, it is just wrong for someone else to pick it for you!

February 28, 2009, 10:13 AM	#4
NuJudge Member Join Date: October 17, 2005 Location: SE Michigan Posts: 86	7.62x54R data Hodgdon, IMR & Winchester: http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp Accurate Arms: http://www.accuratepowder.com/data/P...page%20286.pdf Real Guns: http://www.realguns.com/loads/762x54r.htm Chuck Hawks: http://www.chuckhawks.com/30Russian.htm