Any S&W 66 owners?

[In The Ten Ring]

I've been dry firing my 66-1 tonight (with snap caps) and I have to say it's trigger pull (double action) is about "the best I have ever tried." Single action is great also.

I haven't shot it yet but I want to.

Any 66 owners?

*Would you guys post pics with a history of the piece? (I don't have a camera or I'd post a pic myself).

[Ibmikey]

My latest and last Model 66 was a gift from my best friend while I was visiting him in Texas last summer, however my use of the Mod 66 predates this current one by many years. When I joined a police dept I purchased a Model 19, about the best police firearm to come along since the SAA & 1911 Colts. Many years after the 19 Smith began making it in stainless steel, being in a position to do so we began issuing 66’s to incoming officers and naturally it was imperiative I carry one also and retired the 19.
The model 66 carried our department into the semi auto era.

[Model12Win]

They carry nice and hit hard. Here's mine:

[Scoits]

Yes, a great revolver

[Slamfire]

I purchased this one from a local gunstore at the time when Police Departments were trading their revolvers for auto pistols. It could have been a Cop gun, but it was very lightly used.

These K frame Smiths are excellent sidearms. I do recommend you keep yours to 158's. Hot 125 grain loads have cracked the barrel forcing cones. Which is one reason S&W came out with the L frame.

[JC57]

I carried a Model 66 no-dash for about 10 years. It was a great revolver. I sold it 25 years ago or so, which in hindsight was a mistake.

[lamarw]

I have a Model 66-2 with a 2 1/2 " barrel. I acquired it used at a local live auction about 2 years ago for $450.00. It looked like it had stayed in a sock drawer all it previous life.

I thought it had a great double action trigger until I acquired a S&W Model 10-7 that was recreated into a Police Pistol Combat (PPC) revolver by Eversull. Now my Model 66-2 does not even come close to a great double action revolver pull in comparisson.

[jglsprings]

You can go broke buying grips for these things...

[223 shooter]

I have a 66-1 and 66-5 both 4" barrels. Used to have a 66 in a 2.5" , like to get one of those again! The 66-1 is pictured with Hogue grips but I have the original target stocks on there now.

[gwpercle]

The model 66 is just about the most perfect "if you could only have one gun" revolver there is. If I had a little disposable income I would get one in a heartbeat .
My model 64 is nice , 38 special and fixed sights but an adjustable sighted 357 magnum covers a lot more useful territory .
Time's a wastin....take her dancing.
Gary

[L-2]

This 66-2 was made in '85-'86 timeframe.
I bought this from a friend ~2007.
I'm at least the third owner.

I shot a few hundred rounds through it and began getting intermittent light strikes. Sending it back to S&W for repair, it had excessive end shake. I don't know the exact procedure S&W used to repair it but the end-shake was repaired.

A few hundred rounds later, the external firing pin fractured. I returned it to S&W again and they repaired the firing pin, along with installing the spring which apparently goes with some of these hammer-mounted firing pins.

I've only put 700 rounds through this gun and don't shoot it much, whereas I've put thousands of rounds through my two J-frames; a 586 L-Comp; and a 4" 627 Pro.

It's about time I put another few hundred rounds through it, probably at my next range session.

[In The Ten Ring]

These K frame Smiths are excellent sidearms. I do recommend you keep yours to 158's. Hot 125 grain loads have cracked the barrel forcing cones. Which is one reason S&W came out with the L frame.

I see, thanks for the advice. So .357 Mag in 158 grain weight is OK? What about +P .38 Special rounds?

[223 shooter]

What about +P .38 Special rounds?

The 38 even in the +P ammo is still fairly mild compared to 357 ammo. You can shoot those in the 66 with no worries. I even shoot +P 38s in my aluminum 642 Airweight.

[Satchmoeddie]

66-2 (unfortunately) but dang it! That sucker actually rivals my Colt watchmaker action Detective Special, Diamondback, Cobra, Agent, & Python revolvers! The S&W triggers don't stack either. I run light weight .38+Ps or 158-180 grain full house .357 in the K Frame. It's a 4". For the .38 Special, snub nose revolvers I use lead semi-wad cutters. Old school cool, and they mushroom better than most JHP, & get great penetration, without going to +P ammo. FYI S&W likely put different shim washer(s) in front of the gas ring on the cylinder. The gas ring moved from the crane to the cylinder on the 66-2. The hammer pins are NOT fun to drive out, at all. Those are pressed or driven, and then peened.

[SGW Gunsmith]

I'll carry this one during the fall and winter months when it's easier to conceal well.



If I miss, the muzzle flash might start their cloths on fire.

[damienph]

My 66-1, a former Sheriff’s Office issue it has been electro-pencil engraved but it is one heck of a good shooter.

[Colorado Redneck]

My wifes 66-1 ( pinned and recessed) was originally issued to a Missouri state patrolman. He sold it to an engineer working at a large lead mining and smelter, when the union workers were on sttike. The exempt employees were crossing the picket line to keep meeting contractual production, so the engineer bought the Smith for protection at home. Years later he and I became good friends, and when he wanted to sell that 66, I bought it for $250. My wife loves that revolver, and claimed it for herself. She shot quite a bit of 357 ammo and it got out of time. I took it to an excellent gun smith that timed it, cleaned it, and did a fantastic trigger job.
It lives in the safe now. She will never part with the thing.

[Dfariswheel]

The Model 66 started out in 1955 as the blued steel Model 19.

Famed Border Patrolman Bill Jordan convinced S&W that the American lawman needed a medium "K" frame revolver chambered in .357 Magnum.
His idea was a premium revolver with adjustable sights and a heavy shrouded barrel and target grips that would be fired with .38 Special ammo for practice, but carried on duty with full charge .357 Magnum ammo.

The new Model 19 Combat Magnum was an instant hit with lawmen and set up S&W to dominate the law enforcement handgun market up until the Glock appeared.

In the late 60's S&W began making stainless steel revolvers with the Model 60 Chief's Special snub nose .38.

In 1971 they began making the Model 19 in stainless steel and called it the Model 66 Combat Magnum.
This became THE law enforcement revolver until the beefed up "L" framed Model 686 Distinguished Combat Magnum was introduced in 1981.

The Model 66 was offered in 2 1/2", 3", 4", and 6" inch versions.
The 3" is a rare limited issue, and is considered by many to be the ultimate medium frame carry revolver.

Due to the use of the old medium "K" frame the Model 19 and Model 66 were not intended for extended use with full power .357 ammo, but they are not as fragile as thought.
The major problem with the .357 "K" frame models is that extended shooting of the hot 125 grain jacketed hollow point loads could cause the forcing cone to erode and even crack.
This was basically metal fatigue caused by the fast moving 125 grain bullet striking the forcing cone and the erosive effect of the hot burning powder.

This appeared because the police stopped practicing with light .38 Special loads and mandated practice with full power duty loads.
The much heavier use of the police favorite 125 grain jacketed bullet loads began to over stress the thinner forcing cones, which in the "K" frame has a flat on the bottom of the barrel to allow clearance for the cylinder yoke to close.
A major contributing factor was that many of the guns with cracked forcing cones had badly fouled forcing cones and that was thought to be a major contributor in the cracking.

To help prevent forcing cone problems, buy a Brownell's Lewis Lead Remover Kit. This is used to remove leading from the bore, but the kit includes a special cone-shaped tip that with a brass screen over it, cuts forcing cone fouling off, including the carbon and copper fouling of jacketed bullets.
Even if you don't shoot lead bullets you should still use the Lewis Kit forcing cone cleaner.

Possibly because of the stainless steel construction the Model 66 seemed to have much less a problem with forcing cone cracking or erosion then the carbon steel Model 19 did.
The large majority of "K" frames that had cracked forcing cones were the Model 19's.

Considering that no new barrels are available, it's still thought best do practice with .38 Special or .38 Special +P ammo, and reserve the .357 Magnum loads for "business" carry.
Another way to limit potential problems is to use mostly the 158 grain Magnum loads. These have a much less problem with forcing cone issues.

Another excellent way to have near-Magnum performance is with the Buffalo Bore 158 grain, lead semi-wadcutter, hollow point .38 Special +P load.
This is a duplicate of the original police issue +P .38 Special load.

Back in the 60's the police were facing more violent criminals, often high on drugs, and they began having many failures to stop with the old standard 158 grain round nose lead bullet load that had been police standard since the early 1900's.
This old load got a reputation as a "widow maker" when police were killed after the ammo failed to stop the attacker.

After a number of police unions and widows sued departments the +P 158 grain, lead semi-wadcutter, hollow point loads were developed.
This ended the failures to stop, and the +P load became known to street cops as the ".38 SPLAT", for the sound it supposedly made when it hit.
These loads were known as the Federal, St. Louis, Chicago, New Orleans, LAPD, etc loads, depending on where you lived.

Over the years the ammo makers have down loaded the original +P to a level not much higher then the original standard .38 Special.
Buffalo Bore has a +P load much like the original lead wad-cutter load.
This has a special softer lead bullet with a gas check crimped on the back of the bullet to allow driving it at near-Magnum velocity, but not lead up the barrel.
If you don't want the ear-splitting CRACK of the full charge Magnum ammo in enclosed spaces like a home or car, these loads are a great substitute that still offers plenty of fight stopping power with much less muzzle blast and noise.
This type load had an excellent reputation with the police, and it's still an excellent choice for CCW carry in the Buffalo Bore loading.

https://www.buffalobore.com/index.ph...t_detail&p=108

Finally, my own Model 66 revolvers.
I once also owned a 4 inch version.
The 3 inch is one of those sold through Ashland Shooting Supplies back in the 80's. These are rare and bring premium prices:

[Brit]

The S&W revolvers, required two modifications, the lower half of the cylinder release removed, easier reloads.
Trigger polished, rounded, vast improvement on double action shooting.

The front sight that had the red insert? The only change that made sense, go to white.

[CajunBass]

I've owned a couple of 66's over the years. I've still got one, a -1, Virginia State Police 50th anniversary model.





It came to me, unfired in it's presentation case.

I have fired it. Like all K-frame Smith & Wesson's it is a delight to shoot.

[In The Ten Ring]

Thanks guys, and especially thank you Dfariswheel, for all of that.

During the silly ammo craziness of 2014, all I could find in any quantity was 158 grain +P all lead hollow points from Remington. Ugh! 5 shots in my j-frame was all I could handle of that at a time. I heard that was called "The FMI Load" but I think it's the same Dfariswheel's reply called the "Detroit Load," etc. I still have almost two full boxes of it and I'll try it in the 66.

My 66 has a great double action pull, I think I'll use it with semi wad cutters in an IDPA match this summer. I'll need some speed loaders, carriers, and a holster though.

[MrBorland]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

I'll use it with semi wad cutters in an IDPA match this summer. I'll need some speed loaders, carriers, and a holster though

SWCs wouldn't be the best choice (only slightly better than full wadcutters), as that sharp shoulder become a real PITA during your reloads. You'll ideally need some ammo with a round nose profile. Preferably plated and not lead. Lead round nose are soft shooting, but very dirty, and they'll gunk up your chambers quickly, also wreaking havoc with your reloads. Here's some ammo that'd be perfect for IDPA (not a bad price, either):

https://www.luckygunner.com/38-speci...ies-100-rounds

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

I'll need some speed loaders, carriers, and a holster though

I'm not trying to push anything on you, but revisit my offer in your other thread. I've got everything you need (except the gun and ammo) and you're welcomed to borrow it to check out a match or two before committing to buying gear.

[luger fan]

The 66 is my ALL TIME favorite 'wheelie.'

[Dfariswheel]

I modified the red ramp front sights on my Model 66's by removing the red insert and installing a black insert.
I used a Dremel carbide cutter in my Foredom flex shaft to cut a shallow, oval shaped hole in the insert, which I filled with Gloss White paint.

When looking through the sights the oval shaped hole looks like a round dot.

For the rear sight I painted on a narrow bar of Gloss White below the sight notch.
This gives a "Von Stavenhagen" type bar-dot sight.

[223 shooter]

Dfariswheel - I like what you did with the sights - I do not see the standard Smith orange worth a hoot these days. I have even contemplated getting rid of the 66-1 as the sights have become hard to see. A dot sight arrangement would be an improvement.