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Old January 7, 2014, 08:29 AM   #1
sigp226wgerman
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What Else do I need?

I will be buying a Lee Pro 1000 45ACP Press Kit sometime. I have compiled a list of other equipment I will need.

Case Tumbler
Media for Case Tumbler
Powder Scale
ABCs of Reloading Book/other manuals

Is there any other equipment I need to purchase to get started loading 45ACP? Thanks!
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Old January 7, 2014, 09:17 AM   #2
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Micrometer, basic case prep tools (de-burrer, pocket reamer, pocket uniformer, case mouth tools), reloading guide (Hornady, Lyman, Nosler, etc.)
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Old January 7, 2014, 09:20 AM   #3
steve4102
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Caliper
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Old January 7, 2014, 11:21 AM   #4
Brian Pfleuger
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Tell us what that kit includes and we could better tell you what it doesn't.
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Old January 7, 2014, 11:38 AM   #5
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I know this may seem obvious, but bullets, primers, powder and cases.

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Old January 7, 2014, 11:40 AM   #6
reload
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...basic case prep tools (de-burrer, pocket reamer, pocket uniformer, case mouth tools), ...
While these may have some use, they are not needed for 45 ACP cases. A tumbler is also optional.
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Old January 7, 2014, 12:01 PM   #7
mnoirot64
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Originally Posted by reload
While these may have some use, they are not needed for 45 ACP cases. A tumbler is also optional.
Yes, while you can reload without these, I would never reload spent brass without cleaning out the primer pockets and making sure they are uniform. I also like to work on the case mouths, IMHO.
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Old January 7, 2014, 12:15 PM   #8
Sure Shot Mc Gee
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Stuck case remover may someday come in handy as well as a kinetic bullet puller.
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Old January 7, 2014, 01:00 PM   #9
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FWIW, a progressive press may not be the best starter press. The subject seems to be controversial, as some think an auto-everything press where 7 things happen each time the lever is pulled is OK as a learning tool. I don't.

For a beginner reloading handgun ammo the first and foremost "tool" is your copy of The ABCs of Reloading. After you read it you'll have a better understanding of what all happens to reload a cartridge, so choice of tools will be easier for you, as determined by your reloading needs. If you don't know what work you're gonna do, you can't choose a tool to do it.

I don't like kits as I prefer to research each tool as it is needed, for my reloading methods (I have been reloading revolver ammo for 30 years and very, very rarely measure case length or OAL. I may have a primer pocket cleaner in a drawer somewhere, but I don't use it so it's just an extra. I only trim my .223 and 30-30 and 30-06 brass so a case trimmer with pilots is overkill. Stuff in a kit that I would not use, kinda like you need a tool to make that 4x4 fit your bench, and your tool kit only came with a hack saw...). But, reloading 45 ACP you'll need a caliper to measure/set OAL (I prefer a dial caliper). I got by without a tumbler for 12 years of reloading and then just got one out of curiosity, and I still don't tumble brass every reloading. And nope, my dies did not wear out.

As you prolly can tell, I figger the K.I.S.S. principle is essential for a new reloader, to keep the learning process aimed at reloading, and not operating tools/presses, etc.
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Last edited by mikld; January 7, 2014 at 01:07 PM.
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Old January 7, 2014, 01:39 PM   #10
reload
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Yes, while you can reload without these, I would never reload spent brass without cleaning out the primer pockets and making sure they are uniform. I also like to work on the case mouths, IMHO.
That's your choice and may produce better results for you. I've loaded a lot of 45 ACP without these tools and they shoot fine. And for a beginner, best to keep it simple to start (and lower cost), then he can figure out how much more effort/time/$ to spend on it.
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Old January 7, 2014, 02:09 PM   #11
reload
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Not knowing what's in the Lee kit (I use a Dillon SDB), besides the press, dies, and components, my essential tools for 45 ACP are a caliper (I use a digital that I got low cost from Harbor Freight), a powder scale, and a primer flip tray. I agree a bullet puller comes in very handy too. I don't use a tumbler - just give the cases a quick wipe while inspecting for any damage.
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Old January 7, 2014, 02:59 PM   #12
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Bullet puller, case collator, Ammunition boxes, ....
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Old January 7, 2014, 03:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
I will be buying a Lee Pro 1000 45ACP Press Kit sometime. I have compiled a list of other equipment I will need.

Case Tumbler
Media for Case Tumbler
Powder Scale
ABCs of Reloading Book/other manuals

Is there any other equipment I need to purchase to get started loading 45ACP? Thanks!
The kits are intended to give you everything you minimally need.

In addition to what comes with it, I'd get a scale and caliper. You need the scale to double check the powder throw, and you need the caliper for checking bullet seating and case dimensions.

I'd also pick up whatever the current version of Lyman's reloading manual is. Read the early chapters (before the load data), on the reloading process.

if you're doing .45 ACP, I'd skip the case prep tools. You won't need them.

Quote:
Tell us what that kit includes and we could better tell you what it doesn't.
The Pro 1000 kits include press with shell plate, powder measure, 3 die set (no 4th position, so no Lee FCD), primer tray and feed. Everything supposedly pre adjusted. (I don't know what powder cavity would be preset.) Literally, the idea is you mount it, and start churning out ammo.

Quote:
FWIW, a progressive press may not be the best starter press.
Especially that progressive.

Can I convince you to spend the money on a Lee Classic Turret kit, instead? Price is about the same, it's a little slower but a lot more reliable. Enough so, that I think your true speed will be as fast or faster than with the Pro 1000.

It also, and I think this is important, lets you operate in a "single stage" mode, so you can learn and get familiar with the process.
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Old January 7, 2014, 03:20 PM   #14
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Agree with the kinetic bullet puller and caliper.
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Old January 7, 2014, 03:33 PM   #15
sigp226wgerman
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Thanks for the advice. I have a friend with the Lee Pro 1000 so I do have a little experience with it.
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Old January 7, 2014, 07:51 PM   #16
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sigp226wgerman,

What's on your list will get the job done with no additions.
You will find things along the way that you will want to change, upgrade or replace.

I've got one of um and it does very well punching out 45s, 40s and 9MMs.
For the 'nay' sayers, it will do it. The Pro 1000 is a great mechanic's progressive... You will need to understand what is being or not being done and how to fix it.
Further, I agree that this press would not be my first preference as a starter. As you have experience with one and a bud to help, I can live with it.
Enjoy you press and take care.

Always error on the side of safety,

OSOK
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Old January 7, 2014, 08:16 PM   #17
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Patience and focus.
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Old January 7, 2014, 08:37 PM   #18
sigp226wgerman
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Thanks for all the advice guys! I am going to buy a 9MM Range officer and then I will get started reloading 45 for my 1911. Thanks!
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Old January 7, 2014, 08:43 PM   #19
William T. Watts
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The primer needs to be below flush, the ONLY way that happens is a primer pocket uniformer. There are some tools indespensible this is one of them! William
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Old January 7, 2014, 08:59 PM   #20
Gabe1519
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I was in the same boat as you just last month. I have the rcbs Rock chucker supreme single stage kit that can be upgraded to a progressive later on. It came with a powder measure, 505 scale, hand primer, deburring tool, and some lube. Definitely get yourself some calipers. Lowes has some nice metal Kobalt calipers for about $34 out the door. Also, you will need a case trimmer, resizing/bullet seater dies, shell holder for the right caliber, and a tumbler which may be optional at this point if you're not collecting a lot of fired brass.

I still need a tumbler and actually used some scotch brite pads to clean the outside of some brass I fired. The thing is once you sit down and start the process you'll find things along the way that you really need and things you may be able to improvise on like the scotch brite pads. I don't plan on using the pads for long, it's just a short term fix. Part of the fun is shopping for the right tools you need and the reloading manuals mentioned above will guide you along the way. Each manual should provide step by step information from cleaning the brass to testing your loads.

Definitely read up on the reloading steps before going out to get your gear. They give more detailed information than is possible on a forum.
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Old January 8, 2014, 11:44 AM   #21
mnoirot64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William T. Watts
The primer needs to be below flush, the ONLY way that happens is a primer pocket uniformer. There are some tools indespensible this is one of them! William
This was my point yesterday. Inevitably, some primer pockets are not uniform. This will cause the primers to not seat fully. I used to use a primer pocket reamer to aid with getting the primers fully seated, but that did not always work. The primer pocket uniformer in this kit works awesome:

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.co...&GO.x=0&GO.y=0

If you want consistent loads, which chamber well in your automatic pistol, this tool is invaluable.
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Old January 8, 2014, 11:51 AM   #22
Brian Pfleuger
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That's the first time I've ever ever heard of a primer pocket uniformer being an "indispensable tool".

I would wager that the large majority of reloaders don't have one and never will, certainly very few handgun shooters will ever use one.

I've never laid my hands on one and see no reason that I ever will.

Primer pockets being out of spec or full of junk is the only thing preventing primers from seating fully. Uniformity might ensure exact, consistent seating but that's an entirely different thing than being fully seated.
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Old January 8, 2014, 12:46 PM   #23
mnoirot64
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Hell, I've had brand new brass from Hornady, Starline and Nosler where the pockets were so tight the primer would not seat flush. One quick pass with the uniformer and they seat perfectly. And, FWIW, some of these were 45 ACP.
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Old January 8, 2014, 01:58 PM   #24
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when i first started reloading i spent hours doing the pockets on all my brass, i quit about 10k rounds ago, i do not struggle with primers not seating, i only find it necessary when doing military brass

if you in competition shooting, sure, spec all your brass, but i have not found a difference in reliabilty between doing it and not
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Old January 8, 2014, 02:02 PM   #25
mnoirot64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skizzums
when i first started reloading i spent hours doing the pockets on all my brass, i quit about 10k rounds ago, i do not struggle with primers not seating, i only find it necessary when doing military brass
Does this mean you do not ever have problems seating your primers flush? Based on my experience, I would either have to shoot cartridges which many not allow my 1911 to lock in battery or throw out some of my brass. I can't imagine I am the only person on here who has difficulty with seating primers properly.
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